CDI is OFF/ON/OFF/ON???

[warrior91]

All I can go by is the fact of stage 1 being jetting, stock exhaust, stock intake ( mabey aftermarket filter), that a stage 2 is improved stock...jetting ,intake, and exhaust mods, and stage three is for a bore kit, larger Carb, intake/exhaust porting, and tuned exhaust...You can only expect so much without spending $$$...You can whip an old horse as much as you want , but it is still an old horse...

[ob1]

Originally Posted by red2003

Yeah, but you aren't useing the AMR III box, and your engine is also pretty well modded, right? Did your daughter run race fuel in the bike when she raced it? I'm sure an increased timing curve can be had that WILL produce more power somewhere on the curve, but it's always at a cost, as you know. On my Roketa the stock CDI seems tailored perfectly to DS riding. It has good low end grunt, no hesitation off idle and it'll wind as high as you wanna let it. Not sure what else to look for.

Mine is running a White Bros CDI, no limiter. Mods are air filter, 30mm Honda carb, port matched intake and exhaust, smoothed the exhaust port and header welds, wrapped header for the tight woods cooling, Cobra ISDE exhaust, and only ran high test fuel, not race fuel. It also has great low end and a screaming top end, and it gets between those 2 states pretty quickly,

Sure, I know it will cost the motor somewhere down the line. But, like I said earlier, I bought the motor on a whim, and have done my best to destroy it, and it keeps going. Last time I was on it, we were marking trail for our enduro. On a road section, I decided to crank it WFO and hold it there, probably 3 miles! Said it before and I'll say it again, the china bike chassis' leave a lot to be desired, and fulfill a need on the market, but the motors are tough as nails!

Also, I found the motor was much more likely to kick back against the starter when the battery was less than fully charged.

[mebigdave]

Here is my 2 cents!

What about adding both Stock and the AMR CDI units with a switch (you know, one of those seen on nucular weapons or jet fighters with the little flip cover) to switch between the active CDI unit.

You start and warm the bike with the Stock CDI, and then when you are on the road and need the extra GO, you hold on very tight, and flip the switch. This switches the input to the HT Coil from the Stock to the AMR Racing CDI and whoosh, off you go 10 - 60mph in 2.2234 seconds!!!

Just a thought.... BUT.. if you think it may work, here's the Schematic

You may need to switch the Tachometer with the same switch, so you will need a double pole switch.

to be honest, i would want to fashion some sort of a harness to make sure that when I switch the button, I am not "de-throned"

that sounds like a risky proposition imo.

but..to each his own. :wink:

I know it is a worthy upgrade for someone who can tune their bike to take advantage of it. I sent an email to amr in hopes of some sort of exchange, but I figure they arent gonna want to do it and I cant blame them its a used electronic part.

i will sell it. but just be careful cause it will mess with your starter. BUT THE POWER IS SWWWWEEEET...no chit.

the box does give power .. no doubt...but at the risk of shearing teeth from your starter or flywee or whatever it is on a bike.

[mebigdave]

I got my AMR Stage 3 from "Fisherboy3" today and when I got home, installed it in my Shineray.

The starter will swing the motor over but is does have a hard time because of the advanced timing, however you may find that with a high current rated battery, it would sting over better. I may try with some jumper leads from my 4x4 and see how the starter likes it then.

I took the bike for a run down the road but it was dark and I was trying out my new 65W/100W head light and could feel that the bike was pulling better. The real test is going to be on Monday when I ride to work on the highway.

The switch seems like a good idea and I'm going to try it tomorrow afternoon. In the morning the my Sons and I are going trail riding on our MX bikes so it will be much later in the afternoon.

Using the switch should be safe because both CDI units will be connected, the output to the HT Coil will be coming from the Stock unit and when I switch it over, the AMR CDI unit will then be driving the coil. I expect that I may have a small miss for a split second and then.... BANG :oops: - No just kidding! There is no reason for anything to go BANG because the AMR CDI unit would have been powered from the time the bike started.

This method is a really good way to test the gains from advancing the timing and then with a flick of a switch go back to Stock. It will also help with starting and idling when in town. Hit the highway and flick the switch and off you go.

[fisherboy3]

Hi Dave. I forgot to tell you the other day that you can also get performance carburettors for this bike from newmanz.co.nz including some double pump carurettors etc they are only $100 so that might be a good way for you to go. Also you would probably be best to use BP 98 octane fuel with the cdi to limit detonation. Cheers