Needing help with engine/clutch issue on Brozz 250 (2020) 144 miles.

Marc Hufnagel · 09-20-2021, 05:53 PM

Ok, I have a 2020 Brozz that has 144 miles on it. It has been treated correctly leading up to now but has a possibly serious issue that I cannot figure out.

Setting up conditions of bike as current:

1. Changed shipping oil immediatrely to 20w-50 Valvoline Mcycle.
2. Clutch is adjusted correctly.
3. Being treated well during the engine break-in.
4. Jetted to run correctly (120/38/2 turns on fuel screw).
5. Clean new air filter
6. Throttle cable adjusted correctly.
7. Chain adjusted correctly.
8. Vaqlves set at 3/4 in/Ex

When started in gear with clutch pulled the bike will want to move forward slightly. With engine running or not and clutch pulled rolling the bike at a low speed makes a clunking/clank from the front sprocket area and you can feel resistance as it is moved forward with clutch pulled. Switching the gear to 2 with clutch pulled and the sound/resistance goes away. It is NOT a good sound as you can see.

I've attached a video - the video is done with the clutch pulled and the bike on a atv/mcycle lift so the back wheel can be moved. You can hear the issue then when I switch to 2 the issue immediately goes away. The engine does not seem to be turning over in the video - it's just very hard to turn the rear wheel.

Ideas, thoughts? It's been suggested it is a clutch/clutch basket issue and I'm about to remove the cover but have no idea what I'm looking for.

I should add that the bike seems to shift and ride ok but this is something that should not be there obviously.

Marc Hufnagel · 09-20-2021, 05:57 PM

When I say the clutch is adjusted correctly: I screwed the adjuster all the way in on the perch and adjusting at the case lever. I moved the lever forward until all slack was gone and tightened the nuts down.

franque · 09-21-2021, 04:57 AM

You need less slack in the clutch. What's your freeplay at the lever?

Marc Hufnagel · 09-21-2021, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

You need less slack in the clutch. What's your freeplay at the lever?

Adjusted it forwards towards front of bike just until resistance was met then tightened down both nuts. Top perch is screwed all the way in.

franque · 09-21-2021, 12:38 PM

Yes, so unscrew it a bit so there is less free play in the clutch lever, no more than 1/8". Your problem sounds like the clutch isn't being pulled in enough, likely due to not being adjusted properly.

Marc Hufnagel · 09-21-2021, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

Yes, so unscrew it a bit so there is less free play in the clutch lever, no more than 1/8". Your problem sounds like the clutch isn't being pulled in enough, likely due to not being adjusted properly.

Just tried that and with that amount of free play the problem still exists.

franque · 09-21-2021, 01:59 PM

Go a little less then. Just to make sure, I'm talking about the clutch lever on the handlebar. You didn't put automotive oil in it, did you?

krat · 09-21-2021, 05:28 PM

Well you have piddled with the external adjustments, rightly or wrongly as the case might be.

Every problem can not be solved at one or the other ends of the external clutch cable.

Your real problem is that your clutch was assembled by a kid that had worked 16 hour days for the past week, installing 120 clutch baskets per hour, and yours came off the line five minutes before quitting time on Saturday night.

Your next step is to drain the oil and pull the clutch cover and check the release lever for full travel inside the case, and check the clutch springs for proper tension. The plates should release from each other smoothly when proper travel is established.

Marc Hufnagel · 09-21-2021, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

Go a little less then. Just to make sure, I'm talking about the clutch lever on the handlebar. You didn't put automotive oil in it, did you?

Yes, I've tried all different amounts of free play at the lever end. Using valvoline motorcycle oil 20w-50.

Marc Hufnagel · 09-21-2021, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krat

Well you have piddled with the external adjustments, rightly or wrongly as the case might be.

Every problem can not be solved at one or the other ends of the external clutch cable.

Your real problem is that your clutch was assembled by a kid that had worked 16 hour days for the past week, installing 120 clutch baskets per hour, and yours came off the line five minutes before quitting time on Saturday night.

Your next step is to drain the oil and pull the clutch cover and check the release lever for full travel inside the case, and check the clutch springs for proper tension. The plates should release from each other smoothly when proper travel is established.

That being said would it affect just one gear with this clunk/clacking noise?

China Rider 27 · 09-21-2021, 07:15 PM

These bikes can suffer from clutch fatigue when the oil gets hot. Might be worth a try to adjust the clutch hot with no play and see if it will shift better. Then when they are cold there will be no play and actually some tension on the cable. It is acting like the clutch is not completely released as Franque points out above. Worth a shot to adjust it "tight" and see if it affects release and shifting.

Marc Hufnagel · 09-21-2021, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

These bikes can suffer from clutch fatigue when the oil gets hot. Might be worth a try to adjust the clutch hot with no play and see if it will shift better. Then when they are cold there will be no play and actually some tension on the cable. It is acting like the clutch is not completely released as Franque points out above. Worth a shot to adjust it "tight" and see if it affects release and shifting.

I can try that - concerning the lever on the case; I want to just move it forward from slack to where I feel resistance then tighten both nuts right?

Marc Hufnagel · 09-21-2021, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krat

Well you have piddled with the external adjustments, rightly or wrongly as the case might be.

Every problem can not be solved at one or the other ends of the external clutch cable.

Your real problem is that your clutch was assembled by a kid that had worked 16 hour days for the past week, installing 120 clutch baskets per hour, and yours came off the line five minutes before quitting time on Saturday night.

Your next step is to drain the oil and pull the clutch cover and check the release lever for full travel inside the case, and check the clutch springs for proper tension. The plates should release from each other smoothly when proper travel is established.

What am I looking for about the springs being proper tension?

China Rider 27 · 09-21-2021, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marc Hufnagel

I can try that - concerning the lever on the case; I want to just move it forward from slack to where I feel resistance then tighten both nuts right?

Here is a link on clutch adjustment. After you have it set up, see if you can use the adjuster at the lever to take out the slack and see if it will improve the clutch release.

https://cscmotorcycles.com/tt250-clu...on-adjustment/

Marc Hufnagel · 09-22-2021, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

These bikes can suffer from clutch fatigue when the oil gets hot. Might be worth a try to adjust the clutch hot with no play and see if it will shift better. Then when they are cold there will be no play and actually some tension on the cable. It is acting like the clutch is not completely released as Franque points out above. Worth a shot to adjust it "tight" and see if it affects release and shifting.

I will check this today.

09-20-2021, 05:53 PM	#1
Marc Hufnagel Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Southern Illinois. Posts: 33	Needing help with engine/clutch issue on Brozz 250 (2020) 144 miles. Ok, I have a 2020 Brozz that has 144 miles on it. It has been treated correctly leading up to now but has a possibly serious issue that I cannot figure out. Setting up conditions of bike as current: 1. Changed shipping oil immediatrely to 20w-50 Valvoline Mcycle. 2. Clutch is adjusted correctly. 3. Being treated well during the engine break-in. 4. Jetted to run correctly (120/38/2 turns on fuel screw). 5. Clean new air filter 6. Throttle cable adjusted correctly. 7. Chain adjusted correctly. 8. Vaqlves set at 3/4 in/Ex When started in gear with clutch pulled the bike will want to move forward slightly. With engine running or not and clutch pulled rolling the bike at a low speed makes a clunking/clank from the front sprocket area and you can feel resistance as it is moved forward with clutch pulled. Switching the gear to 2 with clutch pulled and the sound/resistance goes away. It is NOT a good sound as you can see. I've attached a video - the video is done with the clutch pulled and the bike on a atv/mcycle lift so the back wheel can be moved. You can hear the issue then when I switch to 2 the issue immediately goes away. The engine does not seem to be turning over in the video - it's just very hard to turn the rear wheel. Ideas, thoughts? It's been suggested it is a clutch/clutch basket issue and I'm about to remove the cover but have no idea what I'm looking for. I should add that the bike seems to shift and ride ok but this is something that should not be there obviously.
	0

09-20-2021, 05:57 PM	#2
Marc Hufnagel Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Southern Illinois. Posts: 33	When I say the clutch is adjusted correctly: I screwed the adjuster all the way in on the perch and adjusting at the case lever. I moved the lever forward until all slack was gone and tightened the nuts down. Last edited by Marc Hufnagel; 09-20-2021 at 06:28 PM.
	0

09-21-2021, 05:28 PM	#8
krat Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: KY Posts: 260	Well you have piddled with the external adjustments, rightly or wrongly as the case might be. Every problem can not be solved at one or the other ends of the external clutch cable. Your real problem is that your clutch was assembled by a kid that had worked 16 hour days for the past week, installing 120 clutch baskets per hour, and yours came off the line five minutes before quitting time on Saturday night. Your next step is to drain the oil and pull the clutch cover and check the release lever for full travel inside the case, and check the clutch springs for proper tension. The plates should release from each other smoothly when proper travel is established. __________________ %90 of the Chinese motorbikes ever made are still on the road. The other %10 made it back home.
	0

09-21-2021, 04:57 AM	#3
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	You need less slack in the clutch. What's your freeplay at the lever?
	0

09-21-2021, 12:38 PM	#5
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Yes, so unscrew it a bit so there is less free play in the clutch lever, no more than 1/8". Your problem sounds like the clutch isn't being pulled in enough, likely due to not being adjusted properly.
	0

09-21-2021, 01:59 PM	#7
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Go a little less then. Just to make sure, I'm talking about the clutch lever on the handlebar. You didn't put automotive oil in it, did you?
	0

09-21-2021, 07:15 PM	#11
China Rider 27 Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: PNW Posts: 982	These bikes can suffer from clutch fatigue when the oil gets hot. Might be worth a try to adjust the clutch hot with no play and see if it will shift better. Then when they are cold there will be no play and actually some tension on the cable. It is acting like the clutch is not completely released as Franque points out above. Worth a shot to adjust it "tight" and see if it affects release and shifting.
	1