Chains - Page 2

ExMxer · 02-22-2022, 08:04 PM

I might be cussed, but to me a stock chain just plain sucks. Tubes, chains, grips, fuse holders, brake lines, grade of bolts on minor pieces, are all places where an OEM cuts costs. Hell, Yamaha used to shave an 1/8th off their handlebar width on bikes they carried over year after year, knowing the end customer was going to toss them the minute they got them outside the dealerships. Chains on anything that was supposed to be used in extreme conditions, were decent at best. They usually lasted about 3 weeks. On anything else, cheapest they can get, complete shit. Replace items listed above ASAP, your machine, plus your temper, will thank you.

Thumper · 02-22-2022, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nospark

Well I got my 17 tooth sprocket on the front and as feared, the chain is too short keeping the stock 46 tooth rear. I'm going to go ahead and install the 42 tooth rear. It's an excuse to check rear axle and bearings. I also bought upgraded sprocket studs. I'll install those while I'm in this deep.
I'm perplexed now by trying to adjust the clutch cable but, that's a topic for a different thread.

You might want to ride the bike for a few hundred miles, including whatever you think you will ride... street, gravel/dirt road, rolling hills with stream/river on trails, off road conditions with rock sections, downed trees, steep uphill or downhill sections... then decide if the gearing is right.

For me, speed isn't important. I want tractability in off road and gravel/sand/berm and trail conditions. Street legal for me means I can drive to the fun. But your preference might be different. You won't know until you ride it. How many miles are on your TBR7??

Nospark · 02-23-2022, 07:20 AM

I have a total of -0- miles on it. It's still in the assembly stage. Haven't even started the motor yet. Been taking my time with the assembly checking everything out as I go. Referencing Megadan's "Hawk 250 Resource & Information Guide". Too cold here in Milwaukee to be in a rush to ride. Had a nice ice storm yesterday and don't have studded tires for this thing yet.

Thumper · 02-23-2022, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nospark

I have a total of -0- miles on it. It's still in the assembly stage. Haven't even started the motor yet. Been taking my time with the assembly checking everything out as I go. Referencing Megadan's "Hawk 250 Resource & Information Guide". Too cold here in Milwaukee to be in a rush to ride. Had a nice ice storm yesterday and don't have studded tires for this thing yet.

Yeah. We just had another snowstorm and this morning we are at 4 degrees in Kansas City. I just took my front wheel (the Bandit) to get a new Battlax BT01 mounted. The garage is even freezing cold!

My son's TBR7 isn't done yet either. I got a gallon of T4 15w-40 ready to change in when we can start it and heat it up to dump the oil hot, or at least warm! I don't like working with frosty tools! It will be back in the 60s next week. We will get there!

tknj99 · 02-23-2022, 09:55 AM

This topic made me think recently about the chain on both of my dual sports after recently running thru some cakey mud, they need a nice cleaning.. found this deal on Amazon, looks like a super deal if it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B47LDK1...hk_typ_imgToDp

Michigan Sportsman · 02-23-2022, 03:14 PM

Ordered!! Hurry, only two left.

Nospark · 02-23-2022, 04:34 PM

Speaking of changing the oil in a brand new TBR7, I went ahead and changed mine cold. Well, not real cold. I have the luxury of tinkering with this thing in the work room in my basement. Point is, I didn't run the bike to warm up before change. After all the comments about the break in oil used in these China bikes I expected to see some kind of mystery liquid come out. It looked like descent motor oil but, why take a chance? I put in the T4 15W-40. What is correct way to check oil level? After screwing in dip stick or resting dip stick on top of threads? There is no sight glass I could find as referenced in Megadan's guide. Next question, I was a bit surprised to see the accumulation of fine metal particles on the oil plug magnet. I drained from bottom plug. This indicates motor was run before it was shipped. I can only hope this is normal accumulation during break in and seating of rings?

Michigan Sportsman · 02-23-2022, 05:38 PM

My manual reads… “Insert the dipstick in the oil fill until it rests on the metal, do not screw it in.”

Megadan · 02-23-2022, 06:48 PM

Hawks have a sight glass, if the tbr7 does not, use the dipstick as mentioned above. No matter what, they take right around 1 quart of oil, so add a quart and you should be ok.

As far as the metal. Yes, they test run the engines before boxing them up. During the first few hundred miles the oil will look like somebody poured confetti into the engine. That is why I change the oil after the first 300 to 500 miles.

Nospark · 02-23-2022, 10:54 PM

I did fill it with a measured quart. I recall that was the correct amount from likely something I read on the forum. It seemed it was over filled screwing the stick in. I guess I could have referenced the manual, as Michigan Sportsman points out, and measured it correctly. I'll bet measuring it per the manual, my 1 qt. fill will be right on the money. Nice to know I don't have to suck some oil out. That always hurts my lips.

02-23-2022, 09:55 AM	#20
tknj99 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Central VA Posts: 1,258	This topic made me think recently about the chain on both of my dual sports after recently running thru some cakey mud, they need a nice cleaning.. found this deal on Amazon, looks like a super deal if it works well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B47LDK1...hk_typ_imgToDp __________________ 2024 Zuma Storm 150 DLX 2019 Beta 430 RRS 2018 VStrom 1000 XT Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X
	0

02-23-2022, 06:48 PM	#24
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,016	Hawks have a sight glass, if the tbr7 does not, use the dipstick as mentioned above. No matter what, they take right around 1 quart of oil, so add a quart and you should be ok. As far as the metal. Yes, they test run the engines before boxing them up. During the first few hundred miles the oil will look like somebody poured confetti into the engine. That is why I change the oil after the first 300 to 500 miles. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

02-22-2022, 08:04 PM	#16
ExMxer Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Earth, USA Posts: 196	I might be cussed, but to me a stock chain just plain sucks. Tubes, chains, grips, fuse holders, brake lines, grade of bolts on minor pieces, are all places where an OEM cuts costs. Hell, Yamaha used to shave an 1/8th off their handlebar width on bikes they carried over year after year, knowing the end customer was going to toss them the minute they got them outside the dealerships. Chains on anything that was supposed to be used in extreme conditions, were decent at best. They usually lasted about 3 weeks. On anything else, cheapest they can get, complete shit. Replace items listed above ASAP, your machine, plus your temper, will thank you.
	0

02-23-2022, 07:20 AM	#18
Nospark Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 167	I have a total of -0- miles on it. It's still in the assembly stage. Haven't even started the motor yet. Been taking my time with the assembly checking everything out as I go. Referencing Megadan's "Hawk 250 Resource & Information Guide". Too cold here in Milwaukee to be in a rush to ride. Had a nice ice storm yesterday and don't have studded tires for this thing yet.
	0

02-23-2022, 03:14 PM	#21
Michigan Sportsman Join Date: Feb 2022 Location: Avoca, Michigan Posts: 32	Ordered!! Hurry, only two left.
	1

02-23-2022, 04:34 PM	#22
Nospark Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 167	Speaking of changing the oil in a brand new TBR7, I went ahead and changed mine cold. Well, not real cold. I have the luxury of tinkering with this thing in the work room in my basement. Point is, I didn't run the bike to warm up before change. After all the comments about the break in oil used in these China bikes I expected to see some kind of mystery liquid come out. It looked like descent motor oil but, why take a chance? I put in the T4 15W-40. What is correct way to check oil level? After screwing in dip stick or resting dip stick on top of threads? There is no sight glass I could find as referenced in Megadan's guide. Next question, I was a bit surprised to see the accumulation of fine metal particles on the oil plug magnet. I drained from bottom plug. This indicates motor was run before it was shipped. I can only hope this is normal accumulation during break in and seating of rings?
	0

02-23-2022, 05:38 PM	#23
Michigan Sportsman Join Date: Feb 2022 Location: Avoca, Michigan Posts: 32	My manual reads… “Insert the dipstick in the oil fill until it rests on the metal, do not screw it in.”
	0

02-23-2022, 10:54 PM	#25
Nospark Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 167	I did fill it with a measured quart. I recall that was the correct amount from likely something I read on the forum. It seemed it was over filled screwing the stick in. I guess I could have referenced the manual, as Michigan Sportsman points out, and measured it correctly. I'll bet measuring it per the manual, my 1 qt. fill will be right on the money. Nice to know I don't have to suck some oil out. That always hurts my lips.
	0