Dong Fang DF250RTG

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by snsouth

Hey All! @Barnone, I’m the one who bought your RTG in NC. Fun bike and working out well in Asheville! I haven’t had to do much to it, just upgraded some lights, and messing with the carb so it will start without the choke. I'm new to the motorbike game, and I'm starting the search for a new front wheel & disc, as they have warped. I’m not having much luck with on eBay- there are a few used options for a CG125 wheel/disc from UK, but not in great shape. Just a front disc is $130 on eBay…so I feel like I’m going about this search wrong. Anyone have other leads on parts? Am I overcomplicating it by searching specifically a CG125 front wheel & disc, or is this a more common setup. Cheers!

Try contacting Venom Motorsports.

[Barnone]

snsouth,
What has warped or bent?? Is the rim or the brake rotor? Can you post a picture of the front wheel? Don't know how the wheel or disk would warp unless you hit something.



I am in Florida for a few more months and would like to take a look at it when I get back to WNC.

Also why adjust a carb so you don't have to choke it when it is cold? You probably have it running too rich which might cause damage to the engine.

[TN_Bear71]

Hello All,

I just signed onto the group. My friend just bought a 2018 DONGFANG 250RTG and I am going to be the one working on it. She is the 2nd or 3rd owner. She just bought it Sunday so I haven't had a chance to go through it but I am trying to find where to get parts, manuals, wiring diagrams, etc. If anyone has information they would share I would greatly appreciate it. I am hoping this weekend to start looking at the bike and seeing what needs to be done to it.

Thanks

[Barnone]

I guess you didn't get the owner's manual as it had a wiring diagram.

[TN_Bear71]

No just the bike, I did find a place in Texas that has some parts and sent me a list of what they have.

[SlotaJ]

Ordered a 2022 from venom motorsports last week, should be here in 2-3 weeks they said. I've really appreciate all the contributions you have all put into this post. You've all given some good insight and I feel confident going forward thanks to everyone's advice and knowledge. I'll update when she arrives

[Barnone]

Originally Posted by SlotaJ

Ordered a 2022 from venom motorsports last week, should be here in 2-3 weeks they said. I've really appreciate all the contributions you have all put into this post. You've all given some good insight and I feel confident going forward thanks to everyone's advice and knowledge. I'll update when she arrives

Congrats. Leave it stock! People start modifying them and cause all kinds of issues.
If it is not fast enough for you then buy a more powerful motorcycle. My 2 cents!
I am thinking about buying another one to ride in the mountains of WNC. I will be there at our cabin close to Robbinsville soon.

[SlotaJ]

It just arrived yesterday, starts right up and runs with no issues. Rode it for about an hour and nothing but smiles the whole time. Plenty enough power for me for what I want it for. I'd share a picture but it says it exceeds file size

[SlotaJ]

Any tips for carb tuning? I've noticed unless it's in full choke it doesn't run quite right especially at higher speeds. It also dies at idle if I go to turn the choke all the way off

[franque]

It needs bigger pilot and main jets.

[Barnone]

If I remember right the choke has 3 positions which are top-full choke, middle-half choke, down-no choke.

[grumpyunk]

If it cannot be adjusted richer for idle, then a larger jet would be necessary. Chicago is not that high in elevation, so would in general not need a richer jet than factory.
I suspect some crud in the main jet and a need to fiddle with the idle mixture needle. Try turning the mixture screw out 1/2 turn and see if it like it. Drop the float bowl, and use a mirror to look up into the main jet area. If it were gummed from evaporated fuel deposits, the emulsion tube ports would likely be closed, leading to a too-rich mixture or one that had 'droplets' instead of a fuel:air emulsion(fuel full of bubbled).
The emulsion tube in most sticks up into the venturi and can be pushed down and it should drop out. Of course from the FarEast it could be super-glued into place due to tolerance issues...
Should be a fun machine!
tom

[NoResource95]

I recently purchased a white DF250RTG and have been utilizing this thread to source parts for small modifications. So far I've changed the seat, handlebars, grips, turn signals and I have a racing carburetor I'm considering installing after the bike is broken in. My current project is installing this digital speedometer from amazon



Others in the thread have discussed that they installed this specific digital speedo on their bikes. Can anyone provide information on how the wires should hook up to the harness on the bike? As in which colors are the ground and power wire on the original speedo etc.

Cheers

[grumpyunk]

I installed one on a Jonway after modifying the damaged cluster face. Setting it up properly was akin to playing blind mans bluff with mittens on.
I will insert my description of how to do the settings at the bottom.

I found two things:
The calculation for the speedometer adjustment did not work as I figured. I had to decrease the calculated factor by 1/3 to make it accurate. The number is supposed to be the number of wheel revolutions in one kilometer, essentially. It could be the gearing down at the hub was not as expected.
The tachometer never did work properly. It showed about 5k with the engine, 139QMB, at idle. It pegged the tach quickly. The '4 cylinder' setting gave lower rpm indications, but was still significantly incorrect.
The same speedo is available from aliexpress for about 1/3 less than the DaRiver price.
....
HOW TO SET Color and adjustable parameters:
tire rotations/Km(or minute), Kph/mph, tach 2 or 4cyl, fuel gauge 2 or 3 wire

Backlight Color Selection:
press the button in the ODO(normal key ON) state and hold for 3 seconds to switch the backlight color(there are supposed to be 7). Display will rotate through the available colors. Release at desired color. You must be quick. Eschew utterings of disdain for the designer who could have slowed it down.

ODO / Trip Meter:
With the key ON, Short Press the button to switch between ODO and TRIP METER selections.
I think while displaying the TRIP METER, pressing and holding will reset, but my TRIP is at zero...
---
Following settings adjust for Tire diameter KPH/MPH TACH and FUEL GAUGE

To get into settings mode PRESS and HOLD the button and then switch the
ignition to ON.(key on) The screen displays P0000.

SETTING mode is ENABLED by adjusting to display: P6610

At this time, ONES place 0 will flash
LONG press until TENS place starts to flash,
SHORT PRESS once to make TENS place display 1 P0010
LONG PRESS press until HUNDREDS place flashes
SHORT PRESS 6 times to display 6. P0610
LONG PRESS until THOUSANDS place flashes,
SHORT PRESS 6 times to display 6, P6610
The screen shows P6610 FOR A FEW(really few) SECONDS which is the 'key'
to get into the SETTING mode and enable changes.

Screen will display 00466 from the factory(actually I forget) which is the factor
for wheel rpms per 1,000 meters. (1Km)

Adjusting speed accuracy for tire circumference:
The original instructions to set speedo ratio said to:
Do the ones, tens, hundreds to make the screen show 00466,
46.6HZ corresponds to front wheel RPMs at 60KM/H. The minutes cancel out
if you divide 1,000 meters by the diameter in meters.

Use the SHORT PRESS to change number,
Use the LONG PRESS to get to the next column.

.... Explanation
The number entered reflects the number of rotations of the tire/wheel
EVERY MINUTE at 60Kph, which conveniently obfuscated is the number or rotations in 1,000
meters. (60KPH==1K per minute==1,000M)

60 Kph == 60,000 meters/hr divided by 60 min per hr
60,000/60 = 1,000 meters per minute
1,000 meters divided by circumference equals tire revolutions
per KM == number_entered

calculate your circumference(Pi X Diameter) in meters.
Many cycle tire sizes listed here:
https://www.heidenautires.com/wp-con...t-18-Rev.1.pdf

An example front tire is a 130/60-13, circumference from the above PDF
table is 57.8" OR 1468mm or 1.468 meters. Divide 1,000 by your circumference in meters giving tire rotations. Approximately 681.2.
Enter 681 in the speedo for the given tire & wheel combination.
**************
682 did not work... read 10mph when going 15mph per GPS speedo.
So, 681* .66(2/3) should work. 454.36 revs(signals or TURNS of the cable for 1,000m
Using 454 as the factor number.

Once the final number is entered, LONG press to get to the
thousands column,hold until it flashes and release to exit the TIRE RPM setting
and get the display as noted below, indicating for KPH/MPH.

KPH/MPH setting

The screen displays 1-001, which means KpH,
To keep KPH do a short press to skip this step,
if you want to switch to MPH,
LONG PRESS press switch to get ones column blinking, and then
SHORT press to display 1-002 which indicates that you have set it to MPH.
LONG press to get to the next setting

3.Cylinder Setting for Tachometer
Use the SHORT/LONG procedure as in the above steps to set the ones digit.
SHORT press the button to make the screen to display 2-002, indicating that
this is a 2-cylinder.
SHORT press skip to the next step leaving as a 2 cylinder.
LONG press until ones place flash, then SHORT press to make the 2 a 4,
which means 4 cylinders. Confusing with 'lost spark' ignitions, but apparently
2 cyl works for cycles that fire on each revolution.(NOT)
SHORT press to step to the next setting.

4. Fuel gauge settings. Follow the above steps, SHORT press the until screen displays 3-002, which means that this is a 2-line oil meter, SHORT press to save all settings and exit, LONG press until ones place flash, and then LONG press to display 3-003, that means has switched to 3-line oil gauge.
{A two-line gauge had a HOT and a GROUND only. A THREE line has a HOT & GROUND and a lead that come from the cluster} I think many scooters are three line.
........ end of instrux & explain .....
I think the BK/R wire is for the tachometer. I connected it to the CDI wire that was running the ignition coil.
The W/BL wire is for the fuel gauge. If you have 3 wires, one increases as fuel level rises, the other decreases.(most that have 3 wire) Pick one, and touch it to the BL/W wire, turn the key to ON. If you have a half tank, good luck. Try the other wire, same way, and if you are not at a half tank it should indicate properly, or show the opposite condition.
I used short lengths of wire with alligator clips to temporarily connect to power & ground. One of the cluster light bulbs had switched power & ground, so it was convenient.
- tom

[NoResource95]

My white DF250RTG
Current modifications: Bars, grips, mirrors, digital speedo, seat, blinkers

Speedo still needs to be programmed and I need to figure out a mount. Any suggestions on universal mounts for the gauge cluster? I was thinking one of these might work?






If anyone is interested in the stock parts I deleted let me know. I don't plan to use the bars, mirrors, or seat for anything. Located in Pensacola FL