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Old 11-16-2022, 08:45 PM   #1
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
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Location: Dallas TX
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I don't know if I posted this, now that all the blind break off bolts have been removed from the carburetor I bought and installed two M4-.7x16mm Hex Sock Cap Bolts


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I decided to redo my battery tender wiring to switch it to the other side thinking I might back my bike in the garage such that the left side is facing the wall with the power socket and have the front tire facing the garage door so I have a quick and easy exit down the driveway incline. Underneath the battery tray is the engine CDI unit.


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I spent today installing the digital dash and key. And hooking up all the missing wiring.


Name:  Digital Dash and Key Installed.jpg
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I must have taken the Headlight Cowl and and off at least three times. I did not like the throttle cable routing the way it came out of the box. When I pulled the steering hard right all the free play in the throttle I had set had dissappeared. Nothing I adjusted would bring it back. I pulled the digital dash again and rerouted the throttle cable. Finally after all that faffing about I can roll the handlebars full right and I get the same freeplay I set in the full left position.

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__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
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Old 11-16-2022, 08:58 PM   #2
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
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Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 578
Finally my Motorcycle Wheel Hex Tool arrived. I can finally get that front wheel torqued up to spec. For the moment the nut is on finger tight as I didn't have the 19mm hex to go into that front wheel bolt.


Had to add the sprocket to get free shipping. Might as well grab one of them now to test out. I am not using this for off road, or plan on mostly street so I moved a step taller from preserving off road 1st capability. I won't even start work on this until the bike is broken in. I still have to get a new chain and then master links and chain breaking tools to do this swap.



Name:  Motorcycle Wheel Tool and New Sprocket.jpg
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Just so it can be said it can be done. Carburetor has been reinstalled. I tried yesterday and gave up. It was 30s in the garage and low 40s. Try as I might I couldn't get the air filter boot to slip over even with lots of silicone lube spray. Today with a fresh nights rest I borrowed my wife's hair dryer (NOT A HEAT GUN!) and the boot, carburetor and I got acquainted with the loveliest toasty warm conditions to work in.


Name:  Carb Reinstalled In Cold With Hair Dryer On Air Box Boot.jpg
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I've now got the tank reinstalled. Who would have thought the fuel tank to carburetor fuel line host clamp and the fuel tank to petcock fuel line hose clamps would be different sizes. I got the tank finally adjusted so the seat could be mounted and all the seat bolt holes lined up. Then I snugged down the tank into that position. I got my new micro-controller battery charger, battery reconditioner and battery tender plugged in and keeping it in good shape. Batteries last twice as long if you plug em in and maintain them when not riding. At the cost of new batteries the 4Amp Viking from Harbor Freight was a bargain.


Now the bike is pretty much done. All that remains is a full PDI and go over every single bolt and torque specs. Then pop the side panels on. Go get some fresh gas and see if it will run.


Front brake hand lever, rear brake foot lever both trigger the rear LED brake light. Right and Left signals work and the correct indicators on front and rear light up for each direction. Digital Dash lights up, gear changes show up on the Dash as does returning to neutral lighting up the large green N light.


Rear brake foot lever doesn't engage until after a large amount of throw, I'll have to adjust that so it engages sooner.


Headlight switch works. On solid dot nothing comes on. On headlight icon the headlight turns on. The Hi/Low toggle switch works. Looking at it in my garage and staring into the headlight it seemed weak to me. A new headlight LED upgrade may be in the future sooner than later. Will need to test at night on the road and see.


Need to install mirrors. Warm the engine, dump the shipping oil and put in its first quart of proper oil. Adjust the chain tension. And whatever other small miscellaneous tasks need to be done.

Name:  Tank On, Seat On, New Battery Tender Wiring Plug Only Needs Side Panels and PDI Torque All Bolts.jpg
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__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
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Old 11-16-2022, 10:57 PM   #3
Hap   Hap is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Maben, MS
Posts: 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Pete View Post
I don't know if I posted this, now that all the blind break off bolts have been removed from the carburetor I bought and installed two M4-.7x16mm Hex Sock Cap Bolts


Attachment 27843


I decided to redo my battery tender wiring to switch it to the other side thinking I might back my bike in the garage such that the left side is facing the wall with the power socket and have the front tire facing the garage door so I have a quick and easy exit down the driveway incline. Underneath the battery tray is the engine CDI unit.


Attachment 27844


I spent today installing the digital dash and key. And hooking up all the missing wiring.


Attachment 27845


I must have taken the Headlight Cowl and and off at least three times. I did not like the throttle cable routing the way it came out of the box. When I pulled the steering hard right all the free play in the throttle I had set had dissappeared. Nothing I adjusted would bring it back. I pulled the digital dash again and rerouted the throttle cable. Finally after all that faffing about I can roll the handlebars full right and I get the same freeplay I set in the full left position.

Attachment 27846
Put my headlight and dash in today. I had to fiddle with the cables myself to free them more from binding. It’s tight behind that Cowl!


 
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