Templar X 250

[Nutcracker]

Just clocked 12.7 miles of muddy logging trails 6 miles from my house. A little over 25 miles total.

Strangely I carried a meat thermometer with me to check oil temps against the Summit HH2 oil cap. The little Cap works very well within 5 degrees of my meat thermometer. Average was 180° & highest I saw was 205. That was after 5 min stretch of high RPM 1st gear what the hell have I got myself into mud slinging... The motor and header was popping while cooling down but 205° was the hottest the oil got. To me that's very good I figured this engine would run in 250s easily. Once back in stock there a nice addition.

Also I decided to test is a Chinese knock off (Atlas) Throttle lock on this bike. I used the Top kit but believe the bottom kit would work better. Link below...



https://www.ebay.com/itm/36412830270...mis&media=COPY

[Zooker89]

So I did the valve adjustment this morning and am glad I did. The exhaust valve had no play and the intake valve was clamped down even tighter.

I did verify that mine came with an intake gasket, so one thing off the checklist.

[DanDLion]

I saw aftermarket front fenders by Cycra that were vented and decided to do a little simple DIY project. I was worried about it looking like random swiss cheese so I took some time and came up with a pattern and I am pretty happy with how it turned out.

Being in AZ I am pretty concerned about heat, and I realize this going to do much honestly, maybe 1% improvement (if that); but it was fun and I think it also looks kinda cool.

I think the most of the holes are small enough to still provide protection from rocks, some mud will probably get through but that requires it to rain here

[DanDLion]

Hi all, another mod this weekend for me.

I was wanting some sort of fuel gauge, the best I could find online was by LSK https://www.lskelectronics.com/fuelgaugepro1 which is a really sleek looking setup, however $130 for a fuel gauge was not in the budget at this time.

Looking online more I saw gas tank sight glasses for motorcycles, but it required drilling of the tank which I wasn't going to do, and it got me to thinking about it and realized I could do it DIY style a lot cheaper. I tee'd off the fuel line after the petcock and before the filter and ran a line to a 2-way petcock and a clear line up to the vent line. I then installed a stainless steel spring protector.

I added the 2-way petcock as there is a lot of talk online of clear fuel lines hardening and cracking, so the petcock is there to prevent loss of fuel, I can just open the petcock to see my fuel level and then turn it back off. And it will be easy enough to swap the clear fuel line in the future as needed.

I am glad I went with the spring protector as when sitting on the bike my leg does touch this line and in general its a bit of a liability now, although that's one reason for the petcock on this setup. I may reroute it between the holes in the plastics in the future as this would move it away from my leg. After some riding well see about that one.

You will notice in the last picture adding that tee moved the fuel filter back and is somewhat pinching the fuel line after the filter now, so a 90deg fuel filter will be added in very soon to this setup.

Overall I am very happy with the outcome for now, its nice to be able to have some indication of fuel level.

[chris56ford]

I just received my Templar X 250 6spd. I got it all put together and the starter button doesn't work. After troubleshooting, the starter button doesn't have any incoming power so therefore no outgoing power. The dash lights up when I turn the key on. The starter and starter solenoid work fine if I apply power to the starter solenoid wire that comes from the switch.

Is there a safety switch somewhere on the bike? I don't see a relay anywhere for the starter solenoid but I don't know if these bikes have them. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Chris

[Bruces]

No idea on your specific bike ,try kick stand up ,and /or pulling in the front brake as they are common safety start switches

[Thumper]

Templar has no safety switch. YES, you must pull the front brake lever to start. I guess that is the "safety switch"

[Zooker89]

So after adjusting the valves, I finally put some fuel in and fired it up only to hear it ticking like a time bomb.

I used a .0015" feeler gauge and did the 1/8th turn from snug closed...

I used the old screwdriver stethoscope trick and it sounds like it is more from the intake, but noticeable from both.

So now I have to take it all apart again and readjust...

Any thoughts or tricks would be appreciated.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Zooker89

So after adjusting the valves, I finally put some fuel in and fired it up only to hear it ticking like a time bomb.

I used a .0015" feeler gauge and did the 1/8th turn from snug closed...

I used the old screwdriver stethoscope trick and it sounds like it is more from the intake, but noticeable from both.

So now I have to take it all apart again and readjust...

Any thoughts or tricks would be appreciated.

If you used the 0015" feeler after ~1/8th turn, that is the right setting. The question is were BOTH valves closed on that cycle? It is every other 360 degrees on the crank, with |T (TDC) lined up in the view port.

[tknj99]

fwiw, i tighten down on a .003 feeler and that equates to a .002 that can then be inserted with slight resistance

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by chris56ford

I just received my Templar X 250 6spd. I got it all put together and the starter button doesn't work. After troubleshooting, the starter button doesn't have any incoming power so therefore no outgoing power. The dash lights up when I turn the key on. The starter and starter solenoid work fine if I apply power to the starter solenoid wire that comes from the switch.

Is there a safety switch somewhere on the bike? I don't see a relay anywhere for the starter solenoid but I don't know if these bikes have them. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Chris

I haven't verified this for fact but believe that the start button gets power from the brake light circuit. Depress either the front or rear brake lever and the starter button should have 12v to send to the starter relay. Easy fix is to engage a brake to start. Harder fix is find an alternate ignition switched +12v source for the starter button and re-wire. I plan to do this but haven't gotten to it yet. I dislike the brake circuit/starter interconnect. Good luck and enjoy the new Templar.

[chris56ford]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Templar has no safety switch. YES, you must pull the front brake lever to start. I guess that is the "safety switch"

Thank you very much, that was it!! Never had a bike that needed the front brake pulled to start. I was looking for a kick stand safety, pulling the clutch in, never thought about the brake....

Anyways, it runs great! I'm at 4200ft elevation, so far I think the jetting might be okay.

[Zooker89]

Originally Posted by Thumper

If you used the 0015" feeler after ~1/8th turn, that is the right setting. The question is were BOTH valves closed on that cycle? It is every other 360 degrees on the crank, with |T (TDC) lined up in the view port.

Thanks for the response.

So, I was able to identify the exhaust open cycle and adjusted that one first, rotated the crank 360* then adjusted the intake. When I found the intake cycle, there was absolutely no gap.

I tried the .0015" feeler, but wasn't comfortable that it was correct. It is really hard to get the feeler in there... I then switched to the 1/8 turn from snug without the feeler.

Should it be 1/8th off snug on the feeler? this to me would be more gap than what I assume I had.

I am also assuming if my gap is too big, this is when I would get the ticking noise. Am I thinking backwards? Is my gap actually too tight?

[Thumper]

Go by the feeler gauge. For me, it's about 1/8~ turn from gentle snug closed gap.I don't think the threads on your adjuster are different, but maybe your eyeball ~1/8th is different than mine.

Originally Posted by Zooker89

Thanks for the response.

So, I was able to identify the exhaust open cycle and adjusted that one first, rotated the crank 360* then adjusted the intake. When I found the intake cycle, there was absolutely no gap.

I tried the .0015" feeler, but wasn't comfortable that it was correct. It is really hard to get the feeler in there... I then switched to the 1/8 turn from snug without the feeler.

Should it be 1/8th off snug on the feeler? this to me would be more gap than what I assume I had.

I am also assuming if my gap is too big, this is when I would get the ticking noise. Am I thinking backwards? Is my gap actually too tight?

[IA_Grvlrnr]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

I haven't verified this for fact but believe that the start button gets power from the brake light circuit. Depress either the front or rear brake lever and the starter button should have 12v to send to the starter relay.

This is 100% verified and correct. Along with the lack of a full wiring diagram, the brake starter interlock is one of the biggest annoyances on the Templar-X. I have modified mine with a new clutch lever that incorporates a switch and rewired the interlock circuit. Attached are simplified diagrams of both stock and modified circuits and the OTOM OUDIMO-58958 clutch lever kit I used. It comes with a spare clutch cable and choke cable and is currently bargain priced on amazon. OUDIMO-58958

Also attached are photos of the relevant original neck harness wiring.