JB Weld v. Silver Solder

[winwun]

Dragon, if you don't mind, give me the name of the silver you are using.

I have a 350 watt Weller, and it won't come anywhere near close to flowing the silver I use.

BTW, Wal-Mart has a good selection of cheap cables of various lengths in the bicycle section -- seems like a pack of 4 or 5 different cables were like $4.95.

[Dragon]

The solder is Stay-Brite.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFS75&P=ML

Originally Posted by From the above:

This is 3/64" Diameter 1/2oz Silver Solder with 1/2 oz Flux from Stay-Brite.

FEATURES: Five times stronger than ordinary solder with tensile strength of
10,000-25,000 pounds per square inch.
Will stretch under high pressure, but not break under constant stress
and is vibration-resistant.
Conducts electricity better.
Lead free making it environmentally friendly
Melts and flows at 430°F, providing strength without distortion

[zebadoba]

Originally Posted by Dragon

Melts and flows at 430°F, providing strength without distortion

Ahhhh, that is why you can melt it with an iron, it is just a low percentage of silver . I use the little MAPP & o2 kit for Home Depot to melt the silver solder I have had to use. It is past soldering and into brazing.

Originally Posted by Brownells.com

Silvaloy 355 . . . Has the lowest flow temperature, best wetting and best flow characteristics of any cadmium-free, high silver-content, commercial silver solder.

SPECS: Melts at 1145° F., flows at 1205° F. 56% silver.

But if it holds, then it is stronger then the pot/zinc metal they used in the first place!

A

[Dragon]

It held for three days. It broke again today.

[tigertamer]

Originally Posted by Dragon

I got the supplies from a RC model airplane shop.

I am a slope-soarer from way back. I've never been to Torrey Pines, but have flown countless hours at Coyote Hills on the San Francisco Bay 8)

Yankin' and bankin'
Tigertamer

P.S. I would go the Alonzo route with slow cure J-B and a drinking straw

Just my $.02
TT

[winwun]

True silver solder will melt at around 12 to 14 hundred, depending on the percentage of silver, and it almost always requires a little oxygen in with the fire to get hot enough, but if you use some good flux, heat it right, and get it to flow good, you have a bond that is almost as good as a weld.

Soft solder, regardless of the name, is something significantly less . . .

[Dragon]

I tried the JB Weld-Drinking-Straw method, but it failed after only about ten pulls. :(

Is there an aftermarket clutch cable?

[winwun]

Another way to enhance the heat of your torch is to build a hydrogen generator and pipe the hydrogen into the flame.

Hydrogen burns pretty good, re the Graf Zepplin, circa 1937.

A sealed glass container of water with two plates therein, an anode and a cathode, with leads coming out to a DC source of up to 50v, increase the voltage untill you see the water bubble, and the bubbles are hydrogen, which can be taken off by a line affixed into the glass jug.

Or, you could go to a welding supply house and buy a bottle of hydrogen, but it is some pricey stuff, but it is about the hottest burning gas around, I think -- I believe it is used in some plasma cutters.

At any rate, a little of it will enhance your torch to where you will not have a bit of trouble brazing or silvering.

Speaking of silvering, old coin silver works good, and is good value for the money, like an old, non-collectable silver dime can be had for a couple of bucks, and sliced up with some snips will provide a LOT of silver for silvering at low cost.

[warrior91]

plaz uses superheated AIR, not hydrogen
Adding oxy to any flamable gas increases temp. proportionatley to cfm of oxy...to a point. adding more fuel without more oxy is futile.
Piping a non pressurized glass jug of highly explosive gas without any flash arrestor would be a bomb as the flame will travel down the pipe into the container of gas and explode quickly.