Rear Brake Hung Up

[cycleway4]

same here...had to shorten the bolt

..........I cant believe more havent had to go this route....it must be a common problem in need of a similar fix

[fatboy250]

Some may just be content to crack the bleeder valve every time it happens. Well, I was at one time, but that got old pretty quick having to stop in some of the least desirable places (side of the interstate, back road with very little shoulder, etc.) Glad to have it fixed finally and glad you were able too!

Jason

[deputygene]

Ok, I think I know what you are talking about by shortening the bolt. My brake pedal has a bolt stop adjustment that should solve this problem, I have adjusted it and adjusted it, still it feels like there is air in the system and if it heats up it eventuually locks up. Then I have to get my 8mm wrench and crack open the bleeder valve. Doesn't have anything to do with amount of brake fluid in it, it locks up with the reservoir almost empty.
A couple questions, is filling the brake fluid reservoir and pushing on the brake while opening the bleeder enough to bleed the system? I don't seem to get any bubbles. I didn't notice this at all riding dirt, but I wasn't going as fast or far between stops.
My son's Lifan QP 100 has a disc front brake, when put together it rolled kinda hard, noticed that one side of the brake was dragging. Fixed it by installing a washer between brake and fork, a way to kind of shim it, no more problems. I am wondering if the same thing is wrong with our bikes. Is the brake a little off-center, causing one side to rub, heating up the works causing the fluid to expand?
If I take the bolt out, how much to grind off? Any pictures for the mechanically challenged?

[fatboy250]

Originally Posted by deputygene

A couple questions, is filling the brake fluid reservoir and pushing on the brake while opening the bleeder enough to bleed the system?

Is the brake a little off-center, causing one side to rub, heating up the works causing the fluid to expand?

If I take the bolt out, how much to grind off? Any pictures for the mechanically challenged?

1)Yes
2)Ours weren't, but yours may be
3)About a 1/4-3/8". You can put it back in after you remove the nut and see you would need to grind away about the width of the nut.

Check out my gallery http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...g2_itemId=1336

I added some pics of the shortened bolt and how the linkages look afterwards.

Jason

[molypod]

My Rear Brake has always locked up going down hill in the dirt but then most bikes I've had did that. I use alot of front braking and low gear to go down steep hills. I never thought to check the linkage.

FatBoy250,
I see you've also added a spring to your Clutch what difference can you feel?

[red2003]

Molypod, they mean the rear brake hangs up. Like it is ALWAYS on, even when the brakes aren't being applied. The only fix is to remove all the pressure the pedal is putting on the brake linkage. With the pedal adjuster all the way loose, it still will hang. The fix is as Fatboy has suggested. Cut off that bolt, and remove the nut. On mine, this STILL wasn't enough to totally remove all the pressure on the master cylinder, so I redrilled the mounting holes and moved the master cylinder up and out of the way. Problem solved!

[molypod]

thanx Red,
sounds like that would be a real drag.. (pun intended)

[fatboy250]

Originally Posted by molypod

FatBoy250,
I see you've also added a spring to your Clutch what difference can you feel?

Performance none. Clutch lever feel great. No slop/slack in the lever and it completely disengages back to the stop when released.