New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by katflap

Thanks, that's good news

It is for me. My travel trailer / caravan had standard incandescent bulbs for interior lighting, and they were overheating the enclosed fixtures. A swap to LED bulbs solved that, but the light is a little blue for Mrs. Weldangrind's liking. I'm going to search for a brighter LED.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It is for me. My travel trailer / caravan had standard incandescent bulbs for interior lighting, and they were overheating the enclosed fixtures. A swap to LED bulbs solved that, but the light is a little blue for Mrs. Weldangrind's liking. I'm going to search for a brighter LED.

My LED hand torch puts out quite a harsh light, if it is anything like that then not to cozy for a caravan

--------------------------------------------
Just found a nice short vid of Honley Rx3 out on a ride.

[woodlandsprite]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

A swap to LED bulbs solved that, but the light is a little blue for Mrs. Weldangrind's liking. I'm going to search for a brighter LED.

I bought some LEDs to replace the overhead recessed floods in my house - initially bought the daytime white and found them to be super harsh but super bright - have since bought "soft white" LEDs and they are much nicer and less harsh.

[oldqwerty]

Originally Posted by ripcuda

Do the modern LED lights used for turn signal lamps cause fast blinking anymore? I remember having to put resistors in the circuit to normalize the flashing rate.

Cheers!

I've never seen LEDs cause a faster flash rate, but I don't drive snazzy new vehicles with automatic butt wipers and such and accelerated flash rate can be a signal to tell clueless morons who don't pretrip that they have a turn light not working. Such idiot-proofing feature could easily use current flow anomalies to determine if all the lights are working, LEDs lower the current, and the accelerated flash feature activates because the stooped-proofing device thinks a bulb isn't working.

Usually, LEDs prevent flashing. LEDs use less electricity than incandescents and usually do not draw enough juice to make enough heat to activate the thermal device in a conventional (cheap) flasher. LED sellers made a LOT more money selling and installing resistors wired parallel to the LED lamps to cancel out the energy saving benefits of LEDs (they didn't tell you that, did they?) so the original flashers would get hot enough to flash. This is a sorry, complicated, expensive solution to a very simple problem.

A better solution is to pull the flasher from the vehicle, walk into any auto parts store, hand the counterperson the flasher, and ask for an electronic version of the same flasher because your LEDs messed up the flash rate. The electronic flashers are not load sensitive and just about always work perfectly no matter what combination of bulbs you have. $12, 5 minute fix, without chopping up your OEM wires.

If your bubble-baby turn signal out indicator is still causing a high flash rate, a single resistor in the wire between the flasher and electronic module that contains the indicator out sensor wizardry will cure the problem. A careful look at a schematic will reveal which wire needs the resistor.

I'll leave the calculations of the necessary amperage capacity and resistance value up to you as the concept is too advanced for this medium of communication.

[ripcuda]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Yes, or no blinking. Resistors aren't the answer, because you're mimicking the current draw of a standard incandescent bulb, so there is no power savings. Many of us have installed LED lights to conserve power and be kind to the little charging system.

The answer is an LED-specific flasher. They're cheap and easy to find. I think Spud buys his from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ , but I bought mine from www.bikebandit.com

Ah... sweet. Much better way to do it.

Cheers!

[MICRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Stew! How are you? It's been a long time!

Hi Weld! I'm doing good, was out of the loop for a while but now I'm catching up. Lol

[G19Tony]

Originally Posted by katflap

Nice mod, I would like to do this one .

Knowing next to nothing about LED bulbs, do they chuck out a lot of heat .My headlight has nothing in this portion (Honley RX3) . A bit
concerned about things starting to melt

They put out a little heat, but I don't think anything will melt. If anything melt's on my bike, I'll let everyone know.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by MICRider

I agree, I loved following along with the upgrades and adventures of the orange Zong, the pics and ride reports are awesome . Another bike for the sig!
The RX3 is a great looking bike!

Thank you, Stew. It is great to hear from you again; we have missed you.

[oldqwerty]

Originally Posted by G19Tony

They put out a little heat, but I don't think anything will melt. If anything melt's on my bike, I'll let everyone know.

Well, I do have a couple of H4 projector lamps without housings around the shop somewhere. If something melts, dremel it out of the way, and I'll hook you up with a source. One would be pretty easy to mount in place of whatever that extra light is.

[NoVa Rider]

Originally Posted by NoVa Rider

CSC recommends changing oil before starting the bike for the first time. I am used to bikes and cars that come from the factory with what we used to call "break in oil" that should be changed after a few hundred miles. Not that the break in oil was anything special. My understanding is that the bikes are run briefly by Zongshen for testing before crating. Even so, I would think you could run the original oil for a bit before changing. If not 300 or 400 miles, at least for a engine heat-up cycle or two. At least to warm the oil up before draining.

Probably a matter of personal preference.

I notice CSC has a couple of recommendations. On the oil change tutorial it suggests the first oil change should be at 200 miles. But then Joe's blog recommends changing the oil before starting the first time, particularly since some of the bikes are coming over with low oil levels. Again, probably a matter of personal preference. If my bike needs much oil added before starting, I'll probably go ahead and change it with a motorcycle-specific conventional oil, just so I know what's in the crankcase.

[oldqwerty]

Originally Posted by NoVa Rider

I notice CSC has a couple of recommendations. On the oil change tutorial it suggests the first oil change should be at 200 miles. But then Joe's blog recommends changing the oil before starting the first time, particularly since some of the bikes are coming over with low oil levels. Again, probably a matter of personal preference. If my bike needs much oil added before starting, I'll probably go ahead and change it with a motorcycle-specific conventional oil, just so I know what's in the crankcase.

Changing oil right off the bat is probably a good idea. You don't know what is in there already. I plan to do the same, right down to the dino motorcycle oil, already sitting on a shelf. Supposedly all Cyclones are run on a dino, and from the reports, run hard. I expect the rings are already half seated out of the box. I also plan to check the valves and plug gap during assembly, as well as all other adjustments. I plan an initial 19.5 mile ride that is nearly all stops and turns every couple blocks or rolling hills and curves with a 45mph speed limit which I'll fudge a bit. This route provides constantly changing rpm, road speed, throttle position, and loads so hot spots shouldn't be a problem. Then I'll stop for lunch to let the engine cool, then retrace the route home to an oil and filter change.

Next ride will be speed limits up to 55mph in the loess bluffs running along the east bank of the Mississippi River, then a roundabout route home through the rolling hills of west Kentucky and Tennessee, ending with a 65mph run over the last few miles. I'll stop along the way for lunch and maybe a couple times to let the engine cool. Back home for fresh oil.

Third and fourth break-in rides will be day long wanderings, speeds up to 65mph, among the hills of west Tennessee and Kentucky, as far east as Land Between The Lakes and perhaps as far south as Shiloh. Each ride will cover 400+ miles so several stops, a fresh filter and valve check after the third.

The final break-in ride will be first light until dark and in the same areas, but will include some brief stints on 70mph parkways and interstates. Ride five should see about 1500 miles on the odometer, so will be followed by an oil and filter change, but Mobil 1 4T will be going in.

I plan to have the forward illumination issue sorted before the 5th ride, which looks like it may be a SS1000, just because I haven't done one in a year and a half. Might do a BB1500 just for spits and tickles.

[fishman10]

yes spud,,i agree the front forks need something ,,i hope thicker oil helps!!just got mine assembled,,engine guard an luggage with the lugggage guards.i switched out the the top trunk for the larger J.c. whitney quick release one...On that note they dont build them like they used too.My brand new jc whitney trunk had a crappy flimsey mounting plate which it wouldnt stay latched too!! ,,so i got the old one (same size} out from my old zong and mounted it and it works and latches down down perfect and the mount plate it definately made better at the latch point.But of course ,I buy a new bike and now its freezing here in central PA Now to try and mount up the cree L.E.D. spots,i got of Ebay for $50,,maybe try an mount them engine guard,,,,,,,,,,,

[AZRider]

Tonight is bike night in Glendale, AZ and I thought I'd introduce Phoenix to my RX-3.

[culcune]

Originally Posted by AZRider

Tonight is bike night in Glendale, AZ and I thought I'd introduce Phoenix to my RX-3.

You do know you will have to road trip to Yuma one of these weeks before it gets too hot...

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by AZRider

Tonight is bike night in Glendale, AZ and I thought I'd introduce Phoenix to my RX-3.

Were there any comments or questions from spectators?