What Oil Should I Use for Best Clutch/Transmission Performance?

Boatguy · 05-16-2021, 04:11 AM

So it’s time to get rid of the break in oil in my Lifan x-pect and start in a permanent oil.

I still have the problem of it not being easy to get into neutral from 1st, so I’d like to use the oil with the best chance of fixing that.

What oil should I use to get the best performance from the clutch and transmission?

Boatguy · 05-16-2021, 11:17 AM

Damn. I must have worded this badly.

What brand and viscosity engine would you recommend to get optimum performance from the clutch and transmission in the Lifan 200 air cooled engine?

China Rider 27 · 05-16-2021, 11:43 AM

If there was a vote here on the forum, most likely Shell Rotella T-4 and T-6 would win the choice. It is inexpensive, has several grades 5-40 to 15-40, is clutch rated, and appears to be of excellent quality with a history of working very well in the CG motor. I personally prefer a full synthetic post break in which may be a little more slippery.

Skyd · 05-16-2021, 12:23 PM

It's a highly controversial topic and the source of many opinions and arguments but I'll 2nd the Rotella. I'm using T4 for break in and I'll switch to T6 after a bit. I'm running 15w40

China Rider 27 · 05-16-2021, 12:25 PM

Another approach would be to use some MOTUL motorcycle oil (amazon) for around $15 a quart highly regarded as one the best oils and see if that fixes the neutral issue.

Boatguy · 05-16-2021, 12:36 PM

Ok, cool! Thanks!

I ran Rotella 15-w40 t4 as break in oil. I’ll try the t6 to see how it goes for the shifting issue, then try the Motul if I’m still having the shifting issue.

Definitely don’t want to start oil wars. Ha ha ha.

This is a special case where I’m actually having a little lube problem making it hard to get into neutral. So I figured I’d ask.

trez00d · 05-16-2021, 12:39 PM

Another rep for T4. The engine and clutch may still need some breaking in before it'll hit neutral like that, my hawk took a while but now I can hit it every time.

J4Fun · 05-16-2021, 01:00 PM

I use Rotella 15-40 with good results on my 03' V-Rod that I've had since new and plan on using it for the Hawk. I think it will be a good choice for these bikes!

herbie · 05-16-2021, 01:27 PM

If it’s hard to find neutral when it’s cold, it’s probably an adjustment issue. If it happens only when it’s hot then most likely you would benefit from a heavier viscosity oil. I liked to run Honda G4 20w50 in hotter months

Boatguy · 05-16-2021, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herbie

If it’s hard to find neutral when it’s cold, it’s probably an adjustment issue. If it happens only when it’s hot then most likely you would benefit from a heavier viscosity oil. I liked to run Honda G4 20w50 in hotter months

Ok, that’s some good info! Thanks!

It’s only ever been hot AF when I ride this thing so that’s probably a factor.

franque · 05-16-2021, 03:33 PM

Even with the clutch properly adjusted, this design is hard to find neutral when warmed up and even fully broken in, if not moving. I have an NX125 (Honda) with about 14k miles, and when I stop at a light, if I want to be in neutral, I need to glide forward and be quick to get into neutral, or I need to shut off the engine when I'm stopped.

Megadan · 05-16-2021, 05:12 PM

Old Honda transmission designs in general were always a pain to find neutral. Even my GL1000 could be a little finicky about it. Almost always easier to get neutral from 2nd rather than 1st gear.

krat · 05-16-2021, 05:45 PM

I sort of look at it from the other perspective. Rotella is good, especially in bull dozers, tractors and Kawasaki DR650 applications, but I like to have motorcycle blend in my bikes.

The CG250 only uses one quart of oil. You can go to Autozone and buy a quart of Lucas motorcycle blend specially suited to wet clutch applications for $10. I can afford $10 every 1000 miles.

It is 20/50 and we will need that 50 rating during the summer with these air cooled engines. The 50 rating cools better.

As for the finding neutral difficulty, I can not see the need for concern. The only time I use neutral is when I am putting on my helmet. Any other time I pull the clutch lever and if I put on my helmet before I start the bike I can live without that green light shining for a long time.

Big Bird · 05-16-2021, 08:17 PM

I have found a technique that works for my bike. When its fully warmed up it likes to skip past neutral. I found that if I just do a light tap with my foot I can get it in there instead of a more solid push or pull.

I use rotella t4 also. I noticed they even have jaso ma/ma2 on the bottle now. So their shouldn't be any more confusion about using "diesel oil".

CheapThrills · 05-17-2021, 09:10 AM

I found neutral real easy, just wait for light to turn green, gun it in first, then shift up and gun it again. Listen to your engine scream as the bike slows down.

However, after break in(have 2000+km) still have problems and gets worse with temp, so cable needs adjustment as engine warms up. 2nd to neutral seems easier at times.

05-16-2021, 04:11 AM	#1
Boatguy Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Northeast Posts: 929	What Oil Should I Use for Best Clutch/Transmission Performance?(SOLVED) So it’s time to get rid of the break in oil in my Lifan x-pect and start in a permanent oil. I still have the problem of it not being easy to get into neutral from 1st, so I’d like to use the oil with the best chance of fixing that. What oil should I use to get the best performance from the clutch and transmission? __________________ 2020 Lifan x-pect Last edited by Boatguy; 05-29-2021 at 08:05 AM.
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05-16-2021, 11:17 AM	#2
Boatguy Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Northeast Posts: 929	Damn. I must have worded this badly. What brand and viscosity engine would you recommend to get optimum performance from the clutch and transmission in the Lifan 200 air cooled engine? __________________ 2020 Lifan x-pect
	0

05-16-2021, 12:23 PM	#4
Skyd Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 242	It's a highly controversial topic and the source of many opinions and arguments but I'll 2nd the Rotella. I'm using T4 for break in and I'll switch to T6 after a bit. I'm running 15w40 __________________ 2020 RPS Hawk 250 - Build thread can be found here: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=28374 "Do Wheelies and Forget your Feelies" "If vegetarians eat vegetables, what do humanitarians eat?" -unknown
	1

05-16-2021, 12:36 PM	#6
Boatguy Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Northeast Posts: 929	Ok, cool! Thanks! I ran Rotella 15-w40 t4 as break in oil. I’ll try the t6 to see how it goes for the shifting issue, then try the Motul if I’m still having the shifting issue. Definitely don’t want to start oil wars. Ha ha ha. This is a special case where I’m actually having a little lube problem making it hard to get into neutral. So I figured I’d ask. __________________ 2020 Lifan x-pect
	0

05-16-2021, 01:27 PM	#9
herbie Join Date: May 2019 Location: Illinois Posts: 864	If it’s hard to find neutral when it’s cold, it’s probably an adjustment issue. If it happens only when it’s hot then most likely you would benefit from a heavier viscosity oil. I liked to run Honda G4 20w50 in hotter months __________________ 2022 Venom KPR 200 Red- the fastest color 16t and 46t sprockets, NGK Iridium CPR8EAIX-9, aftermarket full exhaust system. Top speed 81GPS 2023 Venom SS3 KP mini 150– Nibbi carb, Nibbi air filter, aftermarket muffler, decat 2022 Venom Ghost chopper 250 1997 Honda GL1500 Goldwing 1978 Kawasaki KL250 https://youtube.com/@herbiesgarage681
	1

05-16-2021, 11:43 AM	#3
China Rider 27 Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: PNW Posts: 982	If there was a vote here on the forum, most likely Shell Rotella T-4 and T-6 would win the choice. It is inexpensive, has several grades 5-40 to 15-40, is clutch rated, and appears to be of excellent quality with a history of working very well in the CG motor. I personally prefer a full synthetic post break in which may be a little more slippery.
	2

05-16-2021, 12:25 PM	#5
China Rider 27 Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: PNW Posts: 982	Another approach would be to use some MOTUL motorcycle oil (amazon) for around $15 a quart highly regarded as one the best oils and see if that fixes the neutral issue.
	0

05-16-2021, 12:39 PM	#7
trez00d Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: castle hayne, nc Posts: 15	Another rep for T4. The engine and clutch may still need some breaking in before it'll hit neutral like that, my hawk took a while but now I can hit it every time.
	0

05-16-2021, 01:00 PM	#8
J4Fun Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 278	I use Rotella 15-40 with good results on my 03' V-Rod that I've had since new and plan on using it for the Hawk. I think it will be a good choice for these bikes!
	0

05-16-2021, 03:33 PM	#11
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Even with the clutch properly adjusted, this design is hard to find neutral when warmed up and even fully broken in, if not moving. I have an NX125 (Honda) with about 14k miles, and when I stop at a light, if I want to be in neutral, I need to glide forward and be quick to get into neutral, or I need to shut off the engine when I'm stopped.
	0

05-16-2021, 05:12 PM	#12
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 7,991	Old Honda transmission designs in general were always a pain to find neutral. Even my GL1000 could be a little finicky about it. Almost always easier to get neutral from 2nd rather than 1st gear. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

05-16-2021, 05:45 PM	#13
krat Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: KY Posts: 257	I sort of look at it from the other perspective. Rotella is good, especially in bull dozers, tractors and Kawasaki DR650 applications, but I like to have motorcycle blend in my bikes. The CG250 only uses one quart of oil. You can go to Autozone and buy a quart of Lucas motorcycle blend specially suited to wet clutch applications for $10. I can afford $10 every 1000 miles. It is 20/50 and we will need that 50 rating during the summer with these air cooled engines. The 50 rating cools better. As for the finding neutral difficulty, I can not see the need for concern. The only time I use neutral is when I am putting on my helmet. Any other time I pull the clutch lever and if I put on my helmet before I start the bike I can live without that green light shining for a long time. __________________ %90 of the Chinese motorbikes ever made are still on the road. The other %10 made it back home.
	0

05-16-2021, 08:17 PM	#14
Big Bird Join Date: May 2020 Location: California Posts: 169	I have found a technique that works for my bike. When its fully warmed up it likes to skip past neutral. I found that if I just do a light tap with my foot I can get it in there instead of a more solid push or pull. I use rotella t4 also. I noticed they even have jaso ma/ma2 on the bottle now. So their shouldn't be any more confusion about using "diesel oil". __________________ 2020 Boom Vader Gen 2 2019 CSC TT250 2021 Kayo Fox 70
	0

05-17-2021, 09:10 AM	#15
CheapThrills Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Lehigh Valley Area Posts: 148	I found neutral real easy, just wait for light to turn green, gun it in first, then shift up and gun it again. Listen to your engine scream as the bike slows down. However, after break in(have 2000+km) still have problems and gets worse with temp, so cable needs adjustment as engine warms up. 2nd to neutral seems easier at times. __________________ - My 2 Bikes: TaoTao TBR7 Boom Vader Gen 2 (BD125-10) Testing a YouTube Channel
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