New China rider

[jc3]

delete

[tknj99]

Welcome.. make sure to adjust the valves on both bikes, specs can be found on this site. I set my Templar X to .002 by tightening down on a .003 feeler. Also change the oil right away or at least soon after starting and when you dump the oil make sure to clean the oil screen. My Templar also has a long kickstand and I mostly kick it up before getting on, or otherwise it wants to tip over. You'll probably just need to get used to managing it like that. For the rear shock, yea use a spanner or channel lock pliers to loosen or tighten as you see fit.
With regard to delivery, its luck of the draw, mine came in perfect condition, not a scratch while my former Titan DLX came with oil drenched all over the seat and top of bike as it was probably upside down during shipment, as well as some nice scratches.. Any issues or damage you see, take pics and email Zora at Powersportsmax <service@maxpro-llc.com>. They will either send replacement parts or if they don't have them in stock will refund you the parts price so you can buy online like at Amazon

[tknj99]

I had an oil cooler on my Brozz for about a year and didnt notice much difference, in the end, i still changed the oil frequently but evenually it started to develop a drip so i just removed it. In my opinion its not necessary on these bikes.. ive ridden both for hours on end in trails and never had an overheating issue. Same with the oil filter, the screen is fine mated to good mc oil. These are simple, easy to work on machines, so im a big advocate of keeping them that way. Mine shifts smooth as silk from day one and never any issue finding neutral. I did have a nice metal shavings surprise in the screen at my first oil change at 25 miles and other than the wheels being out of balance due to the rim locks, everything is great, love this bike, so much fun and a steal compared Jap alternatives

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by jc3

The back fender was also mangled from being shoved in the box, does this happen a lot?

I don't exactly know what mangled looks like without a photograph (not watched video yet, will after posting) but with the latest imported batch I can say yes for the left rear plastic on the bike, but I cannot speak to the previous imported batches. They changed the way they packaged the wheel that is removed and placed in the crate. They started adding it suspened up top on the left rear side of the crate and tied it off with some platic tie wraps to hold it in the air.



On mine, a forward movement during shipping allowed the wheel to slide forward enough for the metal rotor on the back of the wheel to impact and scrape into the rear left plastic.


Hap ordered a different color of the same bike at the same time and his had the same scuff on the same fender from the same wheel from the same way they changed the packing of the front wheel.


Powersportsmax immediately shipped out a brand new rear plastic and a complete brand new full sticker kit for my bike. All I did was take a photograph of it and sent it to them in an email explaining what state it was in after inspection after unboxing. All I asked for was a replacement rear left plastic, but they come naked hence they also tossed in the full sticker pack as well in my bike's color scheme.


EDIT: If you look at the order confirmation, I printed mine out it had text saying that it is common for plastics to get damaged in shipment and that all damaged plastics will be replaced under warranty, just let them know.

[Texas Pete]

Looked at the video. For warranty my gut feel is they would get you to take it to a local shop and give you some money refunded on the purchase price to cover it.



For that hawk 125 bolt, the way I would look at its removal would be to cut through the bushing and bolt closer to the inner side of the bushing that faces towards the spring, pull the outer cut bolt piece out and remove the cut bushings pieces, then remove the side. If the stripped bolt doesn't pull out while turning outwards, then it looks to be drill out the remaining bolt, then tap new threads onto the hole for the next size up and get a new bolt and bushing cut to fit the larger size and threads and reinstall the side again with the new bolt.

[Texas Pete]

MSO's will ship separated from the bikes as anyone who steals the bike while in transit could take any included MSO and go get it converted to a title and legally title and register the bike. It is annoying but it is a security protocol to ship MSO's out-of-band to the physical bikes packing crates.

[Texas Pete]

I have the Templar X 250. It is the fully adjustable front and rear shocks version of the bike. Mine is good, but the bike shipped with every adjustment preset to the softest position. I adjusted mine all the way to the halfway position between hardest suspension and softest suspension, which was a bit too much for street riding. I then backed mine off to a quarter into the the harder position from starting at the fully softest adjustment point. I've kept it there for now and have not had enough rides on the new setting to make a judgement call for further tweaks. I don't think the M comes with fully adjustable suspension? Being street user mostly, I wanted the 6 gears and ability to dial it in suspension wise on the street.

[Wild Dog]

Originally Posted by jc3

Yamaha XT250 but for more than $6k I can't see it. I ended up getting both bikes for half that and less than one 10 year old 125cc motocross off Craigslist. Super happy with the price.
.

I know people won't agree with this.
But the XT250 is a third world motorcycle with a price tag that's just stooopid.

That engine is as chinese as the one in the templar. Made by Jianshen.
The power output is on par with a templar m or any other real 250cc engine made by the Chinese. It's around 19hp.
Is it a bad motorcycle?? No, but it's just too expensive for what it is.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by jc3

I agree. The only thing it has going is the NAME.

You will be shocked with the amazing performance and fun on the Templar. I love that Black/grey/white color scheme. And the Hawk looks awesome too!

On the fender damage... Take a picture and contact PSM about it. Zora will get back to you on it, I am sure. It may not be a stock item so it could take a few weeks to get one from Zumaav, but I think they will make it right.

And can you measure the distance top/bottom on the shock? If you have room for the balloon (side cartridge), you might be able to get a replacement shock for a Temp X and install that. Then agin, just increasing the preload with the spring compression method when you get your shock tool might be all you need. Sometimes less is more !!

[tknj99]

Somehow i doubt he'll be blown away by the performance having been around the block a few times, but for sure its a ton of fun and more than enough for offroad action without the worry of going full throttle and spinning out into a tree
I tested my buddy's Beta 390 down my block and holy cow, now that bike was impressive, the front wheel coming up while in 3rd at 50mph lol.. but he can't use most of that power offroad and im certain if we were racing around gravel/hard pack with turns, i'd be just as fast or fast because of the ability to use all of the power at any given time

[Thumper]

I can't use that much power anymore. My right shoulder is toast

It's the landings that are too much!!

But it would be fun to have another 10 hp available.

[Megadan]

As a note on the oil coolers. They aren't strictly necessary. I do notice a difference with mine though, but I primarily push my bike hard at highway speeds and in city traffic on hot summer days. I notice the difference when the oil starts losing viscosity from the heat and when it comes back after moving for a bit.

It really just comes down to when, where, and how you ride. Don't feel you absolutely need one though.

As for the first oil change, 1 hour is just a waste of oil. Set the valves now and do the first oil change between 200 to 500 miles (or equivalent hours, like 10 to 15). Do the valves again and change the oil at that point and you will be good for a while.

[Texas Pete]

Did you also harden up the clicker on the compression valve. That will make the overall feel of the shock firmer by restricting the speed of the oil flow.

[Texas Pete]

For my custom tools I tend to get them from rocky mountain, seeing how the bike was so cheap I can afford semi decent tools now. They have some pretty contorted looking shock wrenches likely for contorted access shocks.


https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/s...spanner+wrench

[Texas Pete]

Found a video on rocky mountain that may help.





I tend towards motion pro but looking at the tusk punch it has a more screwdriver tip shape as compared to more of a punch shape tip.


Edit: found another process video for those in the future that read this and don't know the process.