Nibbi on Templar

[jc3]

delete

[JerryHawk250]

Looks like a Nibbi clone. All you would of needed to do is drill the aluminum plug out to gain access to the idle mixture.

[Megadan]

Other than visually looking better, there ain't much to gain from doing the nibbi other than not having to unseal the stock carb. Jetting should be fairly straight forward.

[Wild Dog]

Well Nibbi among other chinese mfg they just use the design of Keihin and Mikuni.

You can get an OSAKA PWK, OKO PWK, Nibbi PWK, Polini PWK, Keihin PWK.
All of them will look similiar, but the Keihin and Polini will be above the Nibbi and that one above the OKA and OSAKA.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by jc3

My thoughts exactly! I figured I would post here for people that were looking at all the "first thing to get after you buy your chinese bike" videos on youtube. 100% a waste of money.

The first thing to get when you get a Hawk or similar style of bike, the PE28 is an upgrade for those bikes. Likely why people said that.

[tknj99]

I got a knock-off from Amazon with the shiny yellow idle knob for $20.. good to know the Nibbi makes no difference as its usually marketed/commented to be the high performance option

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by tknj99

I got a knock-off from Amazon with the shiny yellow idle knob for $20.. good to know the Nibbi makes no difference as its usually marketed/commented to be the high performance option

Performanc, no. General quality, it is better than the typical knock offs. It's a definite middle ground between cheapo China and proper Keihin.

[Texas Pete]

I run the OEM stock standard carburetor, I just changed my jets, that's all. I run the stock standard Chinese OEM spark plug. And I even run 87 octane Costco Corn Glue Fuel exclusively. Don't fix what isn't broken. I don't think anyone runs my rear sprocket, but that is the only thing outside of jets you need to change if you are going to use the bike on anything but 100% life duty on pure off road. I am 6 foot so big and decently heavy and I am getting 76 mph on my oem carb and my rear sprocket on my Templar X 250. Now if I take a full on gust of head wind its game over for any 76 mph on the OEM original dash display. I have no need or desire to change out carburetor to aftermarket, to change out exhaust to aftermarket, to change out air filter, etc. Money spent versus performance gained will not add up. So my advice to all new owners that end up reading this thread, just ride your bike as is before you spend any money on anything to change it. Get to know your bike and what it can do before deeming it unacceptable and in need of a bunch of bolt on parts. The engineers did a decent enough job picking the OEM stock parts to make a bike that will work and perform to a known specification.

[Thumper]

I drilled the airmix screw cap on the OEM carb and closed off the air (clockwise) to just less than one turn open. Fixed it. I am at ~800 feet, and I still needed to adjust the airscrew after changing pilot from 40 to 45, main from 120 to 125. It was too lean (like you suspect).

The airmix screw on the youall smoothbore lets more air into the mix when you open it (counterclockwise). It is probably too far open. Those symptoms sound like what I had before making the adjustment.

Yours might be slightly different (variability in the jets and airmix seat), so the exact position of the airscrew could be a little different. But I get EXCELLENT response and power all the way across the rpm range. It isn't the carb, it is most likely the adjustment that needs changing. It is hard enough to get the OEM carb in there, but might be even harder to get the Nibbi in there

Originally Posted by jc3

I can't get past 55 on the stock. There is a lot of popping and stumbling in the throttle. After about 30 minutes the carb over heats and just stalls out, probably too lean.

I have the extra cash lying around so I thought I would just compare the 2 carbs and document the difference for people. Hopefully tonight I can get back at it and get the nibbi tuned. I also found an interesting discovery on the OEM needle. I will post about this when I get home and get a picture.

I replaced the stock fuel filters as well.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by jc3

So I drilled out the mixture screw. Chopped the security bolt tops off. Here are some pictures from inside


No way to adjust needle or float

I learned how to shim those needles with a tiny washer(s) on racks of CV carbs (old DOHC Suzukis!).

Needle shim can be done on these OEM Youall carbs too. I have about a 1mm shim (stainless steel washer) on mine.
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...79&postcount=5
That post 5 is in the Templar resource
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32177

Oh, and I thought you just bent the metal arm that presses the needle valve (fuel intake) to adjust float height? That is what I've always done.

[XLsior]

pilot jet is idle to 1/3 throttle.

If your turning the A/F screw all the way to get it running the pilot is wrong. 1.5 to 2.5 turns out from seated (and don't bury the screw either)

Main jet is WOT with the metering needle taking over duty from the pilot jet to WOT main....

the idle screw should only be a crack open from seated not fully wound in or out.

If it needs so much choke then the tune is to lean...
if it fouls the plug and smells thick it's too rich...

You should not be tweaking needle clip position at all for idle. Needle clip meters the mid range throttle response of bogs and sputters.

get your pilot and A/F sorted out before needling and mainjet...

[XLsior]

All the YT links are set to private so cant see them..
But...

have you tried to use a different CDI?

[Thumper]

I am at about 800 ft as well. I went from 40 to 42 on the pilot, 120 to 125 on the main. At about 7/8 ths turn on the airmix screw. I get no change in rpm when I spray starter fluid arond the mounts (sealed up. I think).

I agree that you must be too rich.

I noticed the height difference on the jet (pilot, I think) when installed, but it is still below the fuel level in the bowl, so no problem as far as I can tell.

[Megadan]

Some advice about carb tuning.

Only make 1 change at a time. Just 1. Makes it far easier to track any changes. If you change the main jet, mess with the needle, and play around with the idle mixture, you will never get a feel for what's going on.

Sometimes it helps to reset. Others here with your bike and similar upgrades, if any, can tell you what they run. Start there.

ONLY make jetting adjustments based on how the bike runs when fully up to temp. Like, riding it for at least 10 minutes. Otherwise, you are wasting your time.

Get the idle mixture and pilot jet size dialed in first. They are the easiest. Once you have found the fastest steady idle with the idle mixture, then move to the pilot jet. If you can't get a good steady idle between 1 turn out and 2 1/2 turns out on the idle mixture you need to change the pilot jet. Since the PE uses an air screw to adjust the mix, if less than 1 turn, go up a size. More than 2 1/2 go down.

Main jet is easy. Get the bike up to temp and apply liberal throttle. If it doesn't misbehave, do an plug chop and check the plug. You MUST do a plug chop, simply pulling the plug after riding will not reveal the actual condition of fueling at full throttle. Use plug color to determine changes.

Do the needle last, and only if you notice some issues, usually between jet transition at 1/4 or 3/4 throttle.

Set your float height to 18mm for a PE Carb as well.

[XLsior]

go back to 38/120 on the nibbi.

check all the jet orifaces and use a can of carb cleaner to make sure all the carb passages are clear...

get a new CDI, coil and Spark plug...

put the A/F at 2 turns.

Put the idle a hair open.

start the bike and tune the A/F. enough to get the bike up to temp then dial in A/F and idle . you should not even be touching the throttle yet....

Once that's sorted you can move onto ride ability tuning...