2022 Templar 250 only starts with hot start and will die unless I hit the throttle.

[Texas Pete]

@flopsweat - the petcock off drains most of the fuel in the bowl. Down to where the jet can no longer pick up any more fuel. This is preferable as if you forget to run your bike for a while the fuel can gum up in the bowl but the jets won’t be in the fuel that is going to snot.

To be really drained there is a screw under the bowl or on the side of the bottom of the bowl depending on make of carburetor. Opening this screw lets the fuel left in the bottom of the bowl completely drain out of the hose attached to the bowl and run out into a jar if you so happen to put one under the other end of the hose, otherwise run onto the bike and all over the floor.

You don’t have to drain it or use that method if you are going to run it again soon but it’s a very good habit to build and will prevent you from that one time when you forgot and now you need to pull and clean the carbs and the jets to get your bike running again.

@gigaxi - you likely flooded it. Have a think about it, if you spent one minute warming up a fully cold hunk of metal engine using the choke then half choke procedure the engine is now warm or hot. It no longer needs as much choke or perhaps any choke at all anymore after being warmed. Doing the full cold start choke procedure you are letting in more fuel than air so you can flood an already warmed engine.

To fix it just let it sit. The fuel will eventually evaporate. To fix it faster, pull the spark plug wire, remove the spark plug and set it where it won’t fall and damage the tip. Then if it’s only a little flooded just let it air out before reinstalling the plug and plug wire. If it’s full of a lot of fuel you can crank the engine over to move the piston and force a larger volume of fuel out of it.

When the engine is hot no choke is needed.

You are correct if you have the Templar X the small silver lever on the left handlebar is the choke lever. Pull it all the way in for full choke and let it out half way for half choke. You have full control of how much you let out so use the lean pops to tell you if you let out too much and immediately pull in a bit more choke until the pops stop. If you are too slow it may just quit. No big deal, just start again and depending on where you had the choke lever when it quit give it some more, start then bring it down and hold it just before the last position that made it pop. Let it run for thirty seconds or so to get more heat and expansion into the engine and carburetor then ease it out and see if it holds idle on its own.

Having sat so long without running you may have let the gasoline ethanol blend gum up your carburetor so you may have to pull it anyway. Clean out with spray carb cleaner. Then remove the jets and with the plastic tube in the spray cleaner give them a full squirt with cleaner inside then block the end and force carb cleaner out sideways through the side holes as well. Then clean out all passageways and orifices in the carburetor body. This is where you learn new muscle memory to get it reinstalled efficiently or learn new swear words. This will be good motivation to drain the carb properly from now on using the petcock close and engine still running method at the end of each ride and let it quit on it’s own after it drains down the fuel in the bowl. Use a hair dryer NOT a heat gun to warm the rubber air cleaner connector if trying to do this in winter. Warm rubber is a lot easier to reinstall onto each end of the carb when reinstalling everything.

All this assumes if it’s the OEM factory carb that the blind break off bolts etc have been taken care of to allow full acces once more to open the carb and tube it and change out jets as needed. If not see Thunpers post on how he did his for a guide.

[GigaXi]

The fuel was actually drained before it was stowed away before I bought it, so it's been sitting dry. But I'm guessing it's good practice to clean out the carb anyway. Having said that, any tips on removing it aside from using a hair dryer on the rubber? I've been trying to see how to get it out of there, but with so many wires and whatnot in the way I don't really see a good point of approach. But thank you for all the tips. I'm just letting it sit, and I'll try tomorrow again. Should I adjust the fuel screw since it slowly loses rpms as it idles? I'll have to look into the break off bolt thing, I'm not sure what exactly you mean, but I'm assuming everything is OEM.

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

@flopsweat - the petcock off drains most of the fuel in the bowl. Down to where the jet can no longer pick up any more fuel. This is preferable as if you forget to run your bike for a while the fuel can gum up in the bowl but the jets won’t be in the fuel that is going to snot.

To be really drained there is a screw under the bowl or on the side of the bottom of the bowl depending on make of carburetor. Opening this screw lets the fuel left in the bottom of the bowl completely drain out of the hose attached to the bowl and run out into a jar if you so happen to put one under the other end of the hose, otherwise run onto the bike and all over the floor.

You don’t have to drain it or use that method if you are going to run it again soon but it’s a very good habit to build and will prevent you from that one time when you forgot and now you need to pull and clean the carbs and the jets to get your bike running again.

@gigaxi - you likely flooded it. Have a think about it, if you spent one minute warming up a fully cold hunk of metal engine using the choke then half choke procedure the engine is now warm or hot. It no longer needs as much choke or perhaps any choke at all anymore after being warmed. Doing the full cold start choke procedure you are letting in more fuel than air so you can flood an already warmed engine.

To fix it just let it sit. The fuel will eventually evaporate. To fix it faster, pull the spark plug wire, remove the spark plug and set it where it won’t fall and damage the tip. Then if it’s only a little flooded just let it air out before reinstalling the plug and plug wire. If it’s full of a lot of fuel you can crank the engine over to move the piston and force a larger volume of fuel out of it.

When the engine is hot no choke is needed.

You are correct if you have the Templar X the small silver lever on the left handlebar is the choke lever. Pull it all the way in for full choke and let it out half way for half choke. You have full control of how much you let out so use the lean pops to tell you if you let out too much and immediately pull in a bit more choke until the pops stop. If you are too slow it may just quit. No big deal, just start again and depending on where you had the choke lever when it quit give it some more, start then bring it down and hold it just before the last position that made it pop. Let it run for thirty seconds or so to get more heat and expansion into the engine and carburetor then ease it out and see if it holds idle on its own.

Having sat so long without running you may have let the gasoline ethanol blend gum up your carburetor so you may have to pull it anyway. Clean out with spray carb cleaner. Then remove the jets and with the plastic tube in the spray cleaner give them a full squirt with cleaner inside then block the end and force carb cleaner out sideways through the side holes as well. Then clean out all passageways and orifices in the carburetor body. This is where you learn new muscle memory to get it reinstalled efficiently or learn new swear words. This will be good motivation to drain the carb properly from now on using the petcock close and engine still running method at the end of each ride and let it quit on it’s own after it drains down the fuel in the bowl. Use a hair dryer NOT a heat gun to warm the rubber air cleaner connector if trying to do this in winter. Warm rubber is a lot easier to reinstall onto each end of the carb when reinstalling everything.

All this assumes if it’s the OEM factory carb that the blind break off bolts etc have been taken care of to allow full acces once more to open the carb and tube it and change out jets as needed. If not see Thunpers post on how he did his for a guide.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by GigaXi

The fuel was actually drained before it was stowed away before I bought it, so it's been sitting dry. But I'm guessing it's good practice to clean out the carb anyway. Having said that, any tips on removing it aside from using a hair dryer on the rubber? I've been trying to see how to get it out of there, but with so many wires and whatnot in the way I don't really see a good point of approach. But thank you for all the tips. I'm just letting it sit, and I'll try tomorrow again. Should I adjust the fuel screw since it slowly loses rpms as it idles? I'll have to look into the break off bolt thing, I'm not sure what exactly you mean, but I'm assuming everything is OEM.

It will come out on the right side easily if you remove the muffler... The two 12mm bolts at the head, the 10mm bolt at mid-pipe, and one bolt under the right plastic rear cover.

You do have to remove the right front rack mount (basically remove the rack), BUT you can cut a slot in the plastic where that front rack mount is so that you no longer have to remove the rack when you bolt it all back together.

Actually, removing the carb is much easier and you don't need the heatgun/blow dryer. Getting it back on is a bigger challenge!