Shock replacement

[pyoungbl]

My first glance at the shock installation has me scratching my head. The lower link looks pretty normal but I'm not sure about the best way to get to that upper shock mount. What's the best way to get at that bolt? In short, I want to avoid taking lots of stuff apart only to find that there was a better way.

I have the Progressive Suspension shock in hand.

Peter Y.

[SpudRider]

Remove both saddles, the tank plastic, and the fuel tank.
Pull up on the purge control valve, and move it out of the way.

If the temperature isn't at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit, warm the plastic boot coming from the air box to the throttle body with a hair dryer.

Using a punch, drive the upper shock bolt out of the shock. You won't damage the air box boot, especially if you warm it first.

If the new shock doesn't want to fit in the upper mount, use a punch and hammer to widen the mount a tiny bit. You don't need to grind anything.

Insert the bolt from the right side of the shock, and put the nut on the left side, so you don't have to mess around with the air box boot in the future. Put some red loctite on the threads, and torque the bolt good and tight.

[SpudRider]

If you encounter further problems, don't hesitate to call Gerry, or post your questions here.

[pyoungbl]

Thanks, Spud. This is much better than my first idea....take most of the rear of the bike apart! Yes, three ways to do something: the right way, the wrong way, and my way. My way is like the wrong way but it involves much more swearing and a bit of beer.

Peter Y.

[SpudRider]

You're welcome.

I also recommend removing the rear wheel. I have a lot more room to work, and I find it much easier to remove/install the shock absorber, if the wheel is out of the way.

[pyoungbl]

Yes, and all this leads to greasing all the linkage while I'm at it.

[BlackBike]

Spud, your explanination was great, even I understand it.

Pyoung...Drink that beer after a job well done. Enjoy them both

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by pyoungbl

Yes, and all this leads to greasing all the linkage while I'm at it.

Yes, you are wise to grease all the bearings and bushings of the knuckle/arm and the link/dogbone. You only need to remove two more bolts to grease everything.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...058#post197058

[pyoungbl]

Job Done

Spud, I'm sure you meant for me to put the top shock bolt in from the RIGHT side so the nut is on the side by the airbox. The needle bearings on the dogbone were a bit shy of grease. I was able to get two of the bearings apart to apply lots of grease, the third put up too much of a fight. I did not take the wheel off. One interesting note: In order to take the tank off I had to disconnect the fuel lines. The supply line has a quick disconnect so that's where I took it apart...only to find that the fuel was then draining all over the garage. Later I noticed that there is another QD downstream and that was the one to use so the fuel stays in the tank. In the end I think I spent more time on plastic panels than on the actual shock removal.

Thanks again for the great instructions!

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by pyoungbl

Job Done

Spud, I'm sure you meant for me to put the top shock bolt in from the RIGHT side so the nut is on the side by the airbox...

Thanks again for the great instructions!

You're welcome, and good job.

You are correct; I should have typed 'right' instead of 'left.' I edited my reply about 20 minutes before you made your post. I'm glad you followed the logic of my instructions, and noted the mistake.

[SpudRider]

If you want to get the best performance from your new Progressive shock, I suggest you set the race sag properly.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...d=1#post184432

[3banger]

I had the same issue with the top mounting point of the Progressive shock unit being slightly wider then the OEM unit and couldn't get it to slide in place. The very nature of the spherical bearing and machined spacers made this extra tricky. Rather then go with the brute force potato powered Idaho method of a punch and blunt trauma from a hammer...I went with the more laid back easy going weed inspired method of Colorado. I inserted a spare bolt through the top mounting point with two nuts threaded on the bolt between the mounting tabs. Then between bong hits I gradually spread the nuts to forces the tabs open just a bit in a very controlled manner. The Progressive shock then slide into place with easy. This elegant solution was brought to you by the numbers 4 & 20...

[Azhule]

Looks like I'm not the only one who loves it here in CO

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by 3banger

I had the same issue with the top mounting point of the Progressive shock unit being slightly wider then the OEM unit and couldn't get it to slide in place. The very nature of the spherical bearing and machined spacers made this extra tricky. Rather then go with the brute force potato powered Idaho method of a punch and blunt trauma from a hammer...I went with the more laid back easy going weed inspired method of Colorado. I inserted a spare bolt through the top mounting point with two nuts threaded on the bolt between the mounting tabs. Then between bong hits I gradually spread the nuts to forces the tabs open just a bit in a very controlled manner. The Progressive shock then slide into place with easy. This elegant solution was brought to you by the numbers 4 & 20...

It's true, a healthful diet of Idaho potatoes guarantees a strong body. Therefore, a few gentle taps with a hammer and punch worked well for me. However, I like your ingenious, laid back solution.