Rear hub stop washer fix

[Mudflap]

Talking about a chain drive ATA250D and similar quads.

The right rear hub is held in place on the inside by a washer that fits over the axle splines and up against a lip so the hub can't slide too far onto the axle. Only about 1/16" of the inside edge of this washer contacts the lip, actually less because of the splines cut on the inside of the washer. This tiny area is supposed to hold up against pressure from the big axle nut that needs to be very tight. Eventually the washer deforms allowing the hub to become loose which can damage the hub splines. I've had this happen twice.

To prevent it from happening again I cut a piece of regular 1" black pipe to 6 5/8" and slid it over the axle up against the locking nuts next to the brake disk. This provides a very sturdy stop for the hub and eliminates the washer completely. Works great.

[Adjuster]

Sounds like a much more solid fix. I would like a photo. How well/tight/loose does the pipe fit over the axle? No rattling around?


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[Mudflap]

I'll get a pic soon but it's just a piece of pipe. The ID is perfect to fit over the threads next to the locking nuts. It can't rattle because it's always under compression.

[Darth Racer]

I think I understand this mod.. Pics are always nice. Haven't put any miles on mine yet so might be a good idea to do this before the wear begins.

[Mudflap]

Here is the pipe/spacer installed.



Here is the little washer that is supposed to hold the hub from being pushed too far onto the axle. Note the ridge where it is starting to deform. Only the toothed area makes contact with the axle which isn't much.



Main thing to keep an eye on with the stock setup is movement between the axle and hub. Wear will occur if there is any movement.

[2LZ]

What a GREAT idea! Thanks Mudflap!

[Mudflap]

Another related mod I've made is the chain adjusters. Maybe they've changed it on the newer ones but mine had funky bent eye bolts to pull the axle back at a weird angle. I made some new ones with little pieces of angle iron and a couple of carriage bolts. This pic is from underneath.

[2LZ]

Your axle was crooked also? Mine looks off but it basically goes straight and the chain stays on so I thought maybe it was the body that was mounted crooked or something else that made an optical illusion.....but I swear it's crooked.

[Mudflap]

The axle itself on mine is straight but the mounting flanges were welded a bit crooked on the bearing tube. This puts the left wheel slightly forward of the right but not enough to cause a problem. One of these days I'll cut and re-weld it.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

The axle itself on mine is straight but the mounting flanges were welded a bit crooked on the bearing tube. This puts the left wheel slightly forward of the right but not enough to cause a problem. One of these days I'll cut and re-weld it.

That's EXACTLY what's wrong with mine! The mounting flanges aren't welded on equally and my left wheel is slightly forward of the right one. They must have a jig not set up correctly or something.

[Mudflap]

I agree, it must be a bad jig. You would think Taotao would have fixed that during the 8 years between when mine and yours were manufactured.

[Darth Racer]

I like that flange idea.

Thanks for posting the pics for both mods.

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

yes GIO had that idea on their atvs for years... I think on your axle only one side uses the washer to align the wheel on the one side ... I think the other side does not.. and the rims would not go pass the axle spline... the adjuster fix is good ... But if people would loosen the axle bolts before tightening the adjuster nuts it will not strip them... the threads would help of they were coarse thread.. as I said ,,, good fix..