V2 head on Lifan 150cc

[Psomniferum]

Anyone around here put the v2 roller rocker head on the Lifan 150cc? The only kits available use a 14mm-pin piston, the 150 uses a 15mm-pin piston. Has anyone tried this head using the stock piston? Other than valve clearance, what other issues might be ran into?

[Psomniferum]

Looks like I'll have to be the 1st. Just got my Lifan 150cc, 56.5mm x59mm. Waiting a few days for head set up. This is my 1st build. Since my bike originally came with a Lifan horizontal 125cc, I ordered the biggest Lifan horizontal I could find. This was before I learned nobody makes aftermarket pistons for the 150cc w/ the 15mm wrist-pin piston. They're all for the 14mm engines, 110-125cc. I ordered the head ANYWAYS! I'm figuring this out as I go. If I can replace my own head gasket on a car, I figured one of these small engines should be a snap to learn on! Any books or manuals anyone would recommend for these? I ordered a Lifan repair manual, but the engines in there are upright.

[Psomniferum]

My bike was stolen only a few days after I got it tagged and insured. Being a sub-$2k bike, I only got liability. The thief spray-painted the bike EVERYWHERE! Since I have to tear the bike down to fix all the "ugly", I figured I'd rebuild it MY WAY!

[Psomniferum]

This is my 1st bike engine, but I've worked on cars my whole life. I'm going to run clearance checks and compression tests with the new head. Plan on setting up a jig to drill the valve-reliefs in the piston, if I have to. The kit normally comes with a piston set at 11.5:1 cr. But they recommend fuel-stabilizer with that set up. I want to be able to run pump. Stock cr is 9.0:1 on the 150, so I'll start there. Maybe max out around 10.0 or 10.5:1.
To simplify things, I'm bypassing the electric-start and keeping the kick-start the 150cc came with. I'd like to tear the 125cc down shortly and pull everything I need to convert the 150cc over to e-start. But I want the bike running 1st.

[Psomniferum]

If you'll notice, the thief managed to mangle the stock shift- linkage. Venom does not carry a replacement part, and it is unique to the x22/125cc combo. I think I can salvage the actual arm and adapt the linkage from a Grom for now. Youtube has videos about how to bullet-proof yhe linkage on the Grom. Does anyone know who sells the stock linkage for the Baodiao 125-11 (aka Venom x22 125cc edition.) I've TRIED Google. No luck yet...

[Psomniferum]

Just got my vm26 and intake from TB. Will compare stock intake to v2 unit shortly.

[Rangerscott]

I would take measurents of both heads. Their intake and exhaust ports and the valve sizes. That head could be a downgrade.

[culcune]

I would speak to Pete at Kronik Racing in Simi Valley. He should be able to set you in the right direction

www.kronikracing.com

[Psomniferum]

Rangerscott, from the little bit of research I've been able to, the 150cc head is sold on some websites as the big valve head for the 110-140. It is spec'd with 27i/23e, but I'm not sure of the port sizes, definitely worth looking into. I'm ASSUMING with the larger valves for flow (28.5i/23.5e) and roller-rockers to reduce parasitic loss, that it should out-perform stock. Very smart point, though. I'll ask Vince over at TB if he has any flow numbers between the 2x, he sells both.

[Psomniferum]

culcune, thanx. I'll have to look into Kronik Racing!

[Weldangrind]

I can't tell from the pics what the issue is with the shifter. I'm guessing that there is supposed to be a linkage that attaches to the ball in the second pic; is that right? It also looks like the ball section is bent in, but I'm not sure.

[Psomniferum]

The cups on both sides that the rod threaded into are damaged. The cup is bent all to hell on the linkage hooked to the output shaft and the cup is broken off the pedal itself. I ordered a Grom shifter from Ebay. I can remove the linkage-rod and replace it with tie-rod bolts. The Grom only needs aroun 3-4" length for the linkage. The Venom is 7-8". I was meaning to replace the garbage linkage before it was stolen. The thief pulled an absolute "tweak" move, I wish I would have taken pix, where he JB-Welded a square TP-roll dispenser from the pedal cup to the output shaft! I would have been scared to death! Tweakers are brave, lol! It is near impossible to use the linkage-less Grom pedals they push on Ebay. You would have to move your foot forward 3 or 4" from the peg to hit the shifter. The x22/125 shifter has to be done JUST right!

[Rangerscott]

Imstall a suicide shifter. Lol

[Psomniferum]

My mom had a friend when I was little who rode a Harley with an ol' suicide shifter on it, lol! I was always fascinted by them. I'm tempted to run a linkage-less shifter like they sell on Ebay. The shifter goes directly on the output shaft. I'll have to physically pick my foot up from the peg and slide it forward the 3 or 4 inches to reach the lever. If there is not a lot of leverage needed to engage the grears, I'm thinking of cutting the shifter down to a "shorty" length. See if my US size 10 can reach the shifter then. The distance is much shorter on a Grom.

[Psomniferum]

I just got the V2 head in. I'm curious; the package of the camshaft reads "Honda/Import type." I can find a separate Monkey/Grom cam on TB's site with a different part number. Could this be for the 110? Other sites, such as OMB Warehouse, list a v1 cam for smaller engines up to 150cc with a v2 cam for engines over 150cc. Yet, TB list these cams as for the KLX V2 head. Does this mean my head is compatible with KLX bumpsticks? Or should OMB clean up their description?