Adjusting motorcycle chains

[TominMO]

Here's a good video on how to do that. I really like measuring bolt-to-bolt on both sides like he says (IE from the swingarm pivot bolt to the rear axle), to make sure the wheel is perfectly straight. I recently bought one of those alignment tools you stick on top of the rear sprocket and sight down the rod for checking alignment. The problem with those is they are really just a slightly better way of eyeballing it. Better than nothing for sure, but not the best way.



Two other good videos:



This one is about finding the tight spot on a non-new chain, and adjusting from that spot:

[cheesy]

What are these 'Chains' you speak of?

[TominMO]

Guy is bringing his Gold Wing over for me to adjust the chain. I told him it would cost about $150 because they are extra tricky.....

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by TominMO

Guy is bringing his Gold Wing over for me to adjust the chain. I told him it would cost about $150 because they are extra tricky.....

[Boatguy]

I am surprised. I just used the little marks on the side of the swing arm. And it works great.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

I am surprised. I just used the little marks on the side of the swing arm. And it works great.

If you use the tape-measure method, you may find the little marks are not as precise as you thought. Using the swingarm marks, you are still just eyeballing it for verification.

[Boatguy]

Originally Posted by TominMO

If you use the tape-measure method, you may find the little marks are not as precise as you thought. Using the swingarm marks, you are still just eyeballing it for verification.

I have no doubt about this at all. Because on my xpect, the marks aren’t even the same on either side. And neither is the thing that you line up with the marks. It’s all a bunch of guesswork.

Is it that crucial to be dead on? I guess if you are not, the chain can wear a little bit faster and the sprockets?

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

I have no doubt about this at all. Because on my xpect, the marks aren’t even the same on either side. And neither is the thing that you line up with the marks. It’s all a bunch of guesswork.

Is it that crucial to be dead on? I guess if you are not, the chain can wear a little bit faster and the sprockets?

Basically that's it. If the rear wheel is misaligned enough, you may get squirrely handling too.

[Falkon45]

I spent a lot of time eyeballing. On my Yamaha and KTM, I could just line up markings and be okay. On the Lifan, the markings are barely visible, so I just bought a cheap version of the rod. Made a significant difference with the Lifan. Using it with the dirt bikes and minis also. Just wish I had a longer rod for more accuracy.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Falkon45

I spent a lot of time eyeballing. On my Yamaha and KTM, I could just line up markings and be okay. On the Lifan, the markings are barely visible, so I just bought a cheap version of the rod. Made a significant difference with the Lifan. Using it with the dirt bikes and minis also. Just wish I had a longer rod for more accuracy.

Yes, I wish I had a longer rod too....wait, what were we talking about again?

Oh right. Truth be told, I've had well over two dozen bikes since 1967, almost all with chain drive. Never did anything but eyeball and use the swingarm marks. Somehow I survived. But it is nice to know there is an actual foolproof method of alignment.