Bottom Oil Drain Plug Won't Tigthen

[Slug]

Was doing an oil change for winter because 20w50 makes it incredibly hard to start below freezing. So I wanted to drain with the bottom plug to get everything out.


Was finger tightening the plug back on and it just kept spinning and spinning... and spinning. The threads would occasionally catch but then it went back to spinning.


Am I completely screwed here or is there a cheaper fix other than buying an entire engine?


Was thinking I might be able to try retapping it, or JB weld the threads... Anything?

[Megadan]

Bottom threads are stripped. How isn't important, though it is possible the factory cross threaded it or overtorqued it during assembly.

The fix is straight forward with a few options. Drill and Tap for a larger drain bolt. Drill out and tap for a drain bolt repair kit insert (basically a flanged threadsert). Try a helicoil(can work, but also can be a pain to keep from leaking).

[Slug]

As always thanks for your knowledge, Megadan. You've helped me a lot with your comments and videos.


But I think I may have overreacted in this case because I was in fear of the worst...



I appear to have completely lost the washer which should be on my drain plug.. I've never seen one without, so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't tighten all the way.


I'm hoping that it's going to be a simple $5 fix from O'Reilly tomorrow-- M12x1.5 I believe.

[TominMO]

I doubt it's the lack of washer, but since you need one anyway, let us know if that fixes it. Fingers crossed.

BTW I never change the washers. I use wheel bearing grease on the threads. Never had a leak in five decades.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Slug

As always thanks for your knowledge, Megadan. You've helped me a lot with your comments and videos.


But I think I may have overreacted in this case because I was in fear of the worst...



I appear to have completely lost the washer which should be on my drain plug.. I've never seen one without, so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't tighten all the way.


I'm hoping that it's going to be a simple $5 fix from O'Reilly tomorrow-- M12x1.5 I believe.

I do agree with the washer not being the case, but who knows. Update us with what you find.

I ordered a tusk crush washer kit off the internet and it has been invaluable for my bikes and even my car.

I change them every other oil change or so.

[Slug]

Update: I picked up an M12 x 1.5, slightly longer than the one I had. Was promising at first because I could get it snug, but any extra force would cause it to start spinning and feel loose again.


Also grabbed a so-called self-tapping M14 x 1.5 but the beginning of the taper wasn't small enough to start threading unfortunately.


So I'm think this M13 x 1.5 will work for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V0R7KQ4


Is there anything else I'll need to have on hand when I start this project?

[Thumper]

The bolts have stripped the threads. I don't think that putting in a 13M bolt will create threads. The drill and tap approach is going to be your end game. Helicoil or not, you are going to be cutting new threads.

[Bill Hilly]

I bought a used Corvette several years ago, and it had an aluminum oil pan. The first time I changed the oil the plug would not tightening well. I think the guy I bought it from knew it. I bought rubber expandable oil plugs from Advance Auto, and changed them every other oil change, and they never leaked one bit. You can buy them for all different thread sizes. You may be able to use them. I personally wouldn't be afraid to try, as long as they don't protrude into the case too far, and some moving part hits it.

[Thumper]

Excellent idea Bill.

[buzz]

yep have to agree,so easy.

[Slug]

Originally Posted by Bill Hilly

I bought rubber expandable oil plugs from Advance Auto

Almost sounds too good to be true.



So something like this would likely fit? Because of course nothing is ever metric....



https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...022%7CL4*11633

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by Slug

Almost sounds too good to be true.



So something like this would likely fit? Because of course nothing is ever metric....



https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...022%7CL4*11633

That is more like a freeze plug. This is what you need to try. The pitch of the existing thread doesn't matter, so 1/2 inch would be 13mm,. 9/16 would be 14 mm. Just get what size is closest, and don't use the washer from your old plug. Use no washer.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-...s%2C146&sr=8-2

[Slug]

Originally Posted by Bill Hilly

That is more like a freeze plug. This is what you need to try. The pitch of the existing thread doesn't matter, so 1/2 inch would be 13mm,. 9/16 would be 14 mm. Just get what size is closest, and don't use the washer from your old plug. Use no washer.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-...s%2C146&sr=8-2

Thanks. I'll order this & that 13mm kit I linked previously.


Hopefully the plug does the job but won't hurt to have the kit around if I need it down the line.

[Slug]

That's how I usually do it, Jeffrey.



I decided to use the lower plug this time around to try getting any extra out that may have tried staying in since I was changing to a much lower viscosity this winter.

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by Slug

Thanks. I'll order this & that 13mm kit I linked previously.


Hopefully the plug does the job but won't hurt to have the kit around if I need it down the line.

You can buy one of the rubber plugs at Advance, or AutoZone, and you won't need the repair kit that you previously linked. In theory the rubber plugs don't even need to go in a threaded hole, but what's left of the threads will provide extra grip. I replaced mine at every other oil change because the threads kind of rough the rubber up a little. You may be able to get more than a couple changes on one, but I never tried. They are pretty cheap.