My first bike - 250 cc Used Chongquing Lifan

asia · 05-31-2010, 01:51 PM

I recently purchased a used bike. The COA shows the engine made by Chongqing Lifan Industry. The engine is a V twin Overhead Cam 4 stroke 250cc, and built in 2005.

I recently changed the oil. I removed the drain plug directly below the front of the kick stand. I also removed the cover on the side of the engine (it has 3 allen screws, one being quite long). I cleaned the metallic oil strainer (about the size of a small disposable oil filter) and replaced the screws. There were some minute pieces of metal on the filter, but very tiny, very shiny metal.

But, there exists another plug that seems to be oil related which I could not remove completely. It is located at the very bottom in the center of the engine right up towards the front and sits only about 1" or more directly above the frame. I was able to unscrew the bolt/cap (either 17 or 19 mm) but not able to slide it out away from the frame. This bolt/cap (the cap is about 2 1/2 inches wide). But inside this cap is a long spring. The spring pushes the cap against the frame and I could not remove the spring from inside the cap to get the cap off and to the side of the hole. When I loosened and removed this bolt/cap, there was just a small amount of black liquid that came out - did not even look/smell like oil. About 1-2 ounces came out, and it was thin and black. So, I placed the bolt/cap back onto the threads and tightended it back up.

It seems even if I had been able to remove this cap, the long spring would have been next to remove, and I do not know what this spring is holding up inside the engine.

I refilled the engine with oil, and the bike seems to runs fine. But, I'd like to know what this 3rd plug is, and do I need to get this off. Seems like the only way this comes off is when the engine is off the frame.

Can anyone shed light on this? Help....

)

Weldangrind · 05-31-2010, 02:25 PM

I can only guess, since I don't have direct experience with your engine. I think that cap and spring are for the camshaft timing chain tensioner, as is the case with smaller horizontal Honda engines. Just leave it in place.

The black goo was likely oil that is slightly below the rest of the sump, and it can't be drained via the normal drain plug. I wouldn't worry about it.

asia · 05-31-2010, 09:17 PM

Weldangrind,

It's possible you are correct because the spring going up and into the engine appeared at least 4 or more inches long and had a diameter of about 1 - 1/2 inches. I know a little about car engines, but nothing regarding small engines like in mowers and nothing at all about motorcycle engines. But I was able to change the oil. I suppose finding and understanding 2/3 oil change plugs isn't that bad for a beginner.
:wink:
Thanks again.

Oengus · 06-01-2010, 12:54 AM

Here is diagram see if this helps.
http://mefast.com/LIFAN/MOTORCYCLE/L...ivenShaft.html

Oengus · 06-01-2010, 01:25 AM

Something is not correct the spring sounds like the oil pump and the cap to access it. Thatâ€™s were the screen is and that engine should have a paper filter?

The engine has a tension plate and adjuster for the cams, there should be two and no spring involved?

asia · 06-01-2010, 07:18 AM

Oengus,

Found it, you pointed me to a site with a perfect parts breakdown and parts location, Thanks.

This is what I am talking about, number 14 is the cap, which I could not remove cause the spring was not releasing it and I could not let it drop as it hits the frame.

I imagine there must be a way to remove these parts even with the engine still mounted next to the frame, but I did not want to damage anything, so I left it in. I may try again though and attempt to pry the spring out of the cap with screwdrivers. There is not much space to manuver the cap though.

But this is the part, which I unscrewed, got a small amount of black liquid stuff to come out, but then I screwed it back in being unable to completely remove it.

http://mefast.com/LIFAN/MOTORCYCLE/L...p/OilPump.html

asia · 06-01-2010, 07:24 AM

Yes, this is for the oil pump.

Seems that Dan has this all covered. This is what I've now found. Looks exactly like what I was struggling with so I assume it should come out.
I must try to remove this again, maybe there is some trick to it.

http://www.dansmc.com/changeoil_xl350_oilscreen1.jpg

This site is GREAT... I need to become more familiar with what is on here.

Oengus · 06-05-2010, 01:05 AM

Ideally you would like to clean that screen, but be careful that you do not damage the spring and make sure the o ring seals if you reuse it. They are not supposed to be reused.

I am sure it has metal particles in it and all the oil does pass through that before the filter. Cleaning that is important after the initial wearing in.

But look at the screen and its rubber flange, a bent spring or that not sitting correctly in there could allow metal particles to pass it and thatâ€™s not good.

It needs to be cleaned and correctly seated by that spring, hope that does not require loosening and shifting the engine! But since its Chinese it would not surprise me, they marry frames to engines they are not designed really more like configured with off the shelve parts. I could imagine them saying soâ€¦.move the engine.

asia · 06-07-2010, 08:30 AM

I intend to remove the plug again and try to remove and clean this filter.
However, this time I will use pliers to squeeze the spring and then lift it into the hole and slide the plug/cover off.

If this works, then I hope to have room to remove the spring and the cap style filter for cleaning. I do not intend to "move the engine" off the frame as there seems to be very little if any space to lift it up so as to provide space I would need unless I slide the engine out of the frame.

I would think someone has done this before, but maybe not.

Oengus · 06-07-2010, 07:54 PM

Take pictures of the underside so we can see how tight it is. Then if you work through it put the pictures up the next person will appreciate it.

Oengus · 06-07-2010, 08:04 PM

They often say with that type oil pump configuration to take the spring straight out, thatâ€™s because they want to make sure that you do not dump the metal in that screen inside. Which would be counterproductive, if that does happen then I think you could waste some oil and flush it while open.

Thatâ€™s why I say be careful and also wonder if that frame is or was intended for other engines and not really well suited for that one. The cruisers sometimes have V-twins and other times verticals twins.

Whatâ€™s the VIN on the bike begin with?

asia · 06-08-2010, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oengus

Whatâ€™s the VIN on the bike begin with?

The VIN begins with LF3PCN0G05

From what I've read, this does come out though is is not EASY because the clearance is only about 1/2 inch and by the time you unscrew the cap/plug there is no wiggle room. Only way I see it coming off is to "squeeze" the spring into the engine block, then slide the cap off the spring, and then the spring should fall out of the hole and the small filter with it.

When I do it I'll post it. At the moment my major concern is resurrecting my 10 year old heat pump - or replacing it.

Oengus · 06-09-2010, 01:45 AM

According to that number itâ€™s a Lifan Model, not just the engine the bikes assembly as well is Lifan.

you could use this type of feeler to press the spring upward

asia · 06-09-2010, 09:15 AM

Oengus,
Thanks, great info. I'll go borrow from my neighbor Gary, he has ALL the tools and gizmos. I am sure we'll come up with something that will work. I was planning on finding something to squeeze/compress the spring (like long thin pliers), but simply pushing it back up into the hole is the way to go.

Unfortunately my mechanical abilities are not inborn, they are learned one step at a time. You've shown me a much better approach to solving this dilemna

Have a great day.

Oengus · 06-10-2010, 03:26 AM

Your welcome, I am not totally sure but I believe that your engine is based on a Yahmaha virago 250 engine.

http://www.cyclepedia.com/yamaha-xv2...ervice-manual/

Having that may help with or could be used as a general guide to your bike to work with. That and seeking out others that have that model there seems to be alot of them.

Then these people offer a parts manual for the engine? That would tell you whats different if anything, comparing the two.
http://www.hooperimports.com/

I am sure that certain things should be checked at 1000km and most mechanics would need that basic info to work off, then consider that most charge about $60.00 to look at the bike plus parts. If you have that documentation then you can trouble shoot in advance and if something like cam tensioners and valve need to be checked, then just find a mechanic and have it done.

I would look at the manual on the Yahmaha and see what it gets done or recomends at 1000km. Then look at the part break out of both and see if they are indentical engines, I suspect they may be.

if they are then any Yahamha mechanic could services that bike and may even be familiar with it first hand....that being if they are identical.

05-31-2010, 01:51 PM	#1
asia Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7	My first bike - 250 cc Used Chongquing Lifan I recently purchased a used bike. The COA shows the engine made by Chongqing Lifan Industry. The engine is a V twin Overhead Cam 4 stroke 250cc, and built in 2005. I recently changed the oil. I removed the drain plug directly below the front of the kick stand. I also removed the cover on the side of the engine (it has 3 allen screws, one being quite long). I cleaned the metallic oil strainer (about the size of a small disposable oil filter) and replaced the screws. There were some minute pieces of metal on the filter, but very tiny, very shiny metal. But, there exists another plug that seems to be oil related which I could not remove completely. It is located at the very bottom in the center of the engine right up towards the front and sits only about 1" or more directly above the frame. I was able to unscrew the bolt/cap (either 17 or 19 mm) but not able to slide it out away from the frame. This bolt/cap (the cap is about 2 1/2 inches wide). But inside this cap is a long spring. The spring pushes the cap against the frame and I could not remove the spring from inside the cap to get the cap off and to the side of the hole. When I loosened and removed this bolt/cap, there was just a small amount of black liquid that came out - did not even look/smell like oil. About 1-2 ounces came out, and it was thin and black. So, I placed the bolt/cap back onto the threads and tightended it back up. It seems even if I had been able to remove this cap, the long spring would have been next to remove, and I do not know what this spring is holding up inside the engine. I refilled the engine with oil, and the bike seems to runs fine. But, I'd like to know what this 3rd plug is, and do I need to get this off. Seems like the only way this comes off is when the engine is off the frame. Can anyone shed light on this? Help.... )
	0

05-31-2010, 02:25 PM	#2
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I can only guess, since I don't have direct experience with your engine. I think that cap and spring are for the camshaft timing chain tensioner, as is the case with smaller horizontal Honda engines. Just leave it in place. The black goo was likely oil that is slightly below the rest of the sump, and it can't be drained via the normal drain plug. I wouldn't worry about it. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

05-31-2010, 09:17 PM	#3
asia Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7	Weldangrind, It's possible you are correct because the spring going up and into the engine appeared at least 4 or more inches long and had a diameter of about 1 - 1/2 inches. I know a little about car engines, but nothing regarding small engines like in mowers and nothing at all about motorcycle engines. But I was able to change the oil. I suppose finding and understanding 2/3 oil change plugs isn't that bad for a beginner. :wink: Thanks again.
	0

06-01-2010, 12:54 AM	#4
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	Here is diagram see if this helps. http://mefast.com/LIFAN/MOTORCYCLE/L...ivenShaft.html
	0

06-01-2010, 01:25 AM	#5
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	Something is not correct the spring sounds like the oil pump and the cap to access it. Thatâ€™s were the screen is and that engine should have a paper filter? The engine has a tension plate and adjuster for the cams, there should be two and no spring involved?
	0

06-01-2010, 07:18 AM	#6
asia Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7	Oengus, Found it, you pointed me to a site with a perfect parts breakdown and parts location, Thanks. This is what I am talking about, number 14 is the cap, which I could not remove cause the spring was not releasing it and I could not let it drop as it hits the frame. I imagine there must be a way to remove these parts even with the engine still mounted next to the frame, but I did not want to damage anything, so I left it in. I may try again though and attempt to pry the spring out of the cap with screwdrivers. There is not much space to manuver the cap though. But this is the part, which I unscrewed, got a small amount of black liquid stuff to come out, but then I screwed it back in being unable to completely remove it. http://mefast.com/LIFAN/MOTORCYCLE/L...p/OilPump.html
	0

06-01-2010, 07:24 AM	#7
asia Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7	Yes, this is for the oil pump. Seems that Dan has this all covered. This is what I've now found. Looks exactly like what I was struggling with so I assume it should come out. I must try to remove this again, maybe there is some trick to it. http://www.dansmc.com/changeoil_xl350_oilscreen1.jpg This site is GREAT... I need to become more familiar with what is on here.
	0

06-05-2010, 01:05 AM	#8
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	Ideally you would like to clean that screen, but be careful that you do not damage the spring and make sure the o ring seals if you reuse it. They are not supposed to be reused. I am sure it has metal particles in it and all the oil does pass through that before the filter. Cleaning that is important after the initial wearing in. But look at the screen and its rubber flange, a bent spring or that not sitting correctly in there could allow metal particles to pass it and thatâ€™s not good. It needs to be cleaned and correctly seated by that spring, hope that does not require loosening and shifting the engine! But since its Chinese it would not surprise me, they marry frames to engines they are not designed really more like configured with off the shelve parts. I could imagine them saying soâ€¦.move the engine.
	0

06-07-2010, 08:30 AM	#9
asia Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7	I intend to remove the plug again and try to remove and clean this filter. However, this time I will use pliers to squeeze the spring and then lift it into the hole and slide the plug/cover off. If this works, then I hope to have room to remove the spring and the cap style filter for cleaning. I do not intend to "move the engine" off the frame as there seems to be very little if any space to lift it up so as to provide space I would need unless I slide the engine out of the frame. I would think someone has done this before, but maybe not.
	0

06-07-2010, 07:54 PM	#10
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	Take pictures of the underside so we can see how tight it is. Then if you work through it put the pictures up the next person will appreciate it.
	0

06-07-2010, 08:04 PM	#11
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	They often say with that type oil pump configuration to take the spring straight out, thatâ€™s because they want to make sure that you do not dump the metal in that screen inside. Which would be counterproductive, if that does happen then I think you could waste some oil and flush it while open. Thatâ€™s why I say be careful and also wonder if that frame is or was intended for other engines and not really well suited for that one. The cruisers sometimes have V-twins and other times verticals twins. Whatâ€™s the VIN on the bike begin with?
	0

06-09-2010, 01:45 AM	#13
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	According to that number itâ€™s a Lifan Model, not just the engine the bikes assembly as well is Lifan. you could use this type of feeler to press the spring upward
	0

06-09-2010, 09:15 AM	#14
asia Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7	Oengus, Thanks, great info. I'll go borrow from my neighbor Gary, he has ALL the tools and gizmos. I am sure we'll come up with something that will work. I was planning on finding something to squeeze/compress the spring (like long thin pliers), but simply pushing it back up into the hole is the way to go. Unfortunately my mechanical abilities are not inborn, they are learned one step at a time. You've shown me a much better approach to solving this dilemna Have a great day.
	0

06-10-2010, 03:26 AM	#15
Oengus Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 826	Your welcome, I am not totally sure but I believe that your engine is based on a Yahmaha virago 250 engine. http://www.cyclepedia.com/yamaha-xv2...ervice-manual/ Having that may help with or could be used as a general guide to your bike to work with. That and seeking out others that have that model there seems to be alot of them. Then these people offer a parts manual for the engine? That would tell you whats different if anything, comparing the two. http://www.hooperimports.com/ I am sure that certain things should be checked at 1000km and most mechanics would need that basic info to work off, then consider that most charge about $60.00 to look at the bike plus parts. If you have that documentation then you can trouble shoot in advance and if something like cam tensioners and valve need to be checked, then just find a mechanic and have it done. I would look at the manual on the Yahmaha and see what it gets done or recomends at 1000km. Then look at the part break out of both and see if they are indentical engines, I suspect they may be. if they are then any Yahamha mechanic could services that bike and may even be familiar with it first hand....that being if they are identical.
	0