R1 shock into Roketa. Install and pics.

red2003 · 03-31-2007, 12:34 PM

OK, shock is in and done. Heres the pics step by step. Results follow.

So if you didn't see my prior post, I bought a 2005 Yamaha R1 rear clicker shock to replace the brick in my 2006 Roketa RSX200E (DB07A). The Yamaha shock was 9/16 in. longer and the top mount needed to be moved to keep the ride height stock and be able to use the complete throw of the new shock. Stocker shock gave about 2 3/4in of wheel travel. The R1 shock gives 5 3/4in of travel at the wheel.

Here's the two shocks side by side:

Stock top mount:

I cut up the sides of the stock mount where you see the white chalk lines, and bent the mount up to get the additional 9/16in of mount hole height I needed. Here's the stock mount cut and R1 shock bolted in:

Next I cut two triangle shaped pieces of 3/16in flat stock to fill in the holes in the mount. Here's the new mount with the triangles in and welded up.

Here's the shock installed for good.

Pic of bottom rebound clicker, and grease zerks I installed on the scissor.

Top compression clicker viewed through the side panel. It's a shame you can't see the shock anymore :(

OK, so I took the bike for a quick ride into town to gas up. I am 80% satisfied with the mod. The shock rides oh so much better then the stocker and you can feel the extra travel soaking up the bumps instead of riding on the bump stop all the time. The ride feels like a sport bike (because it IS now), stiff, but forgiving. I played around with the clickers a little and the dampening feels pretty good. The stock R1 spring is just about right for my weight of 210. I'd like it just a little softer, but it's a sport bike shock, and I gotta remember that. I popped over a few curbs at the local Price Chopper parking lot and it took it well. It's still no motocross bike, but I didn't buy it for that anyway. Overall, this mod is perfect for me as 90% of my riding is paved roads. If I was going after an "off road, big bump, fly over rocks and stumps" ride, this is still not it. Honestly, these bikes don't have the gearing or torque for that anyway. I am happy with the install and now I have a basically new (152 miles) stock shock to sell if anyone needs one. Mod on China bike brothers and sisters!!!

FMYStreetRacer · 03-31-2007, 12:49 PM

wow that's awsome. i'll be looking into doing this mod soon i'm sure. that rear shock is stiff for sure. keep up the good work.

Savage · 03-31-2007, 01:08 PM

Nice work! You should move to China and teach them how to weld. LOL

red2003 · 03-31-2007, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage

Nice work! You should move to China and teach them how to weld. LOL

Thanks. How true, though. The stock welds on these chassis's are kinda scarey. Bubble gum welds, spatter all over the place. I wonder is they are still using stick welders over there?? Yikes 8O .

ob1 · 03-31-2007, 03:53 PM

Well, you might want to......

J/K!!!

Looks good!

SamM · 03-31-2007, 04:32 PM

Very nice! How did you compensate for the different sized bolts?

SamM · 03-31-2007, 04:58 PM

I see your point with using the linkage the way it is. Taking the time and effort to post pictures makes it easy for us to understand just what is involved to do a conversion like this. My hat is off to you red2003 for taking that time.

I like the way you cut that top mount and moved it up. It will be interesting to see if anyone else tries a conversion like this and what they come up with. You've got me thinking! The first time I sat on my Viva, I knew something had to be done with the rear shock.

Again, good job!

fatboy250 · 03-31-2007, 06:27 PM

Two thumbs up on the mod!! I'm curious as to why only 80% satisfied?

Jason

red2003 · 03-31-2007, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ob1

Well, you might want to......

J/K!!!

Looks good!

You got me!

About the bolts. The stocker uses 12 mm bolts and the R1 uses 10 mm. I just welded 10 mm washers over the outside of the stock holes when I got it where I wanted it. I also had to put some spacers in as the top mount was about 1/2 in. too wide, and the bottom was about 7/8 in. too wide. My other thought was to pick up a shock from a performance 4 wheeler, but they were all like 14 or 15 in long. I'm still not sure I love the stock scissor. I might try to change up the geometry a little to make it more progressive. I gotta check out a dirtbike, and see what's different. It just doesn't feel quite like I would like it too yet. Maybe I just like to tinker.......

red2003 · 03-31-2007, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatboy250

Two thumbs up on the mod!! I'm curious as to why only 80% satisfied?

Jason

Probably because I just like to change stuff. It is fine as is, I just would like a slightly plusher ride over quick jarring bumps. I might not get it out of this shock, but I'll keep trying!

mdsuave13 · 03-31-2007, 10:47 PM

yes, the welds are absolutely frieghtening on these bikes.. when i was going thru the pics i was like HOW THE HELL WILL THAT HOLD (looking at the cut mount..) i should have held my breath for another .03 seconds and realized i was retarded for thinking someone would not weld it back...

Looks fantastic, maybe you can get someone to re-valve it for more smoothness in the shock?

mdsuave13 · 03-31-2007, 10:48 PM

ps. by the time you get done with this bike, its going to be a full out yamaha frankenstein!

which may be pretty cool!

liverchip · 04-01-2007, 01:13 AM

Nice work! You ought to be giving welding classes here as well. My work is pretty ugly, but that may be attributed to the Harbor Freight flux welder I'm using.

red2003 · 04-01-2007, 02:29 PM

Hey, thanks for all the support guys. Well, I took all the measurements of the rear shock scissor and made a cardboard model on my kitchen table of the whole rear frame, swingarm, shock, and shock scissor assembly. I now know why I wasn't 100% satisfied, even with the R1 shock. What ever bike the Chinese copied the scissor from obviously wasn't the same bike they copied the rest of the frame from. The shock scissor geometry is so far from correct, it's freakin rediculous. The whole benifit of a scissor assembly is to cradle the shock and provide a progresive shock geometry so as the wheel goes through it's travel the spring/shock rates increase to meet the bigger load placed on the wheel. In other words, the suspension needs be be soft at small wheel travel like over small floater bumps, yet progressively stiffer under large wheel travel like landing from a 100 ft. tabletop jump where the forces exerted on the suspension multiply exponentially. Well the stock scissor is not progressive, in fact its regressive (digressive?? Help me here OB1

). And worse yet, the geometry of the scissor only let's the rear wheel move about 3 inches then the scissor is fully extended and the only suspension you have left is the scissor mounts flexing and being pulled apart. NOT GOOD. That's why it feels like these bikes are a hardtail. THEY ESSENTIALLY ARE! Soooo, I've drawn up a new scissor assembly that IS progressive and will give me a full 8 inches of rear wheel travel. I'd like to go for more, but I only have 8 inches of travel before the rear brake caliper hits the muffler and the wheel tops out on the inner fender. I will tinker on it this week and post up the results once it's done. This should finally give me the ride I am looking for. I'll keep you all posted.

Savage · 04-01-2007, 02:35 PM

You must be da man!

03-31-2007, 12:34 PM	#1
red2003 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Northern Vermont, USA Posts: 1,218	R1 shock into Roketa. Install and pics. OK, shock is in and done. Heres the pics step by step. Results follow. So if you didn't see my prior post, I bought a 2005 Yamaha R1 rear clicker shock to replace the brick in my 2006 Roketa RSX200E (DB07A). The Yamaha shock was 9/16 in. longer and the top mount needed to be moved to keep the ride height stock and be able to use the complete throw of the new shock. Stocker shock gave about 2 3/4in of wheel travel. The R1 shock gives 5 3/4in of travel at the wheel. Here's the two shocks side by side: Stock top mount: I cut up the sides of the stock mount where you see the white chalk lines, and bent the mount up to get the additional 9/16in of mount hole height I needed. Here's the stock mount cut and R1 shock bolted in: Next I cut two triangle shaped pieces of 3/16in flat stock to fill in the holes in the mount. Here's the new mount with the triangles in and welded up. Here's the shock installed for good. Pic of bottom rebound clicker, and grease zerks I installed on the scissor. Top compression clicker viewed through the side panel. It's a shame you can't see the shock anymore :( OK, so I took the bike for a quick ride into town to gas up. I am 80% satisfied with the mod. The shock rides oh so much better then the stocker and you can feel the extra travel soaking up the bumps instead of riding on the bump stop all the time. The ride feels like a sport bike (because it IS now), stiff, but forgiving. I played around with the clickers a little and the dampening feels pretty good. The stock R1 spring is just about right for my weight of 210. I'd like it just a little softer, but it's a sport bike shock, and I gotta remember that. I popped over a few curbs at the local Price Chopper parking lot and it took it well. It's still no motocross bike, but I didn't buy it for that anyway. Overall, this mod is perfect for me as 90% of my riding is paved roads. If I was going after an "off road, big bump, fly over rocks and stumps" ride, this is still not it. Honestly, these bikes don't have the gearing or torque for that anyway. I am happy with the install and now I have a basically new (152 miles) stock shock to sell if anyone needs one. Mod on China bike brothers and sisters!!! __________________ 2006 Roketa RSX200E MODS: YZ250F Muffler, Airbox delete with K/N style filter, Main Jet reamed 2 sizes over, Yamaha R1 Rear clicker shock on custom scissor linkage making 8 3/4in. of rear wheel travel!!! Battery relocated under seat.
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03-31-2007, 12:49 PM	#2
FMYStreetRacer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ft. Myers, Fl. Posts: 416	wow that's awsome. i'll be looking into doing this mod soon i'm sure. that rear shock is stiff for sure. keep up the good work. __________________ Roketa DB-07a HID Headlight
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03-31-2007, 04:32 PM	#6
SamM Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: West Virginia Posts: 1,194	Very nice! How did you compensate for the different sized bolts? __________________ 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sahara MOAB 2005 BMW E53 X5 2011 Schutt Industries LTT-HC LQG trailer 2017 Coleman CT200U 1978 Yamaha SR500E 1979 Yamaha XS650 Special II
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03-31-2007, 04:58 PM	#7
SamM Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: West Virginia Posts: 1,194	I see your point with using the linkage the way it is. Taking the time and effort to post pictures makes it easy for us to understand just what is involved to do a conversion like this. My hat is off to you red2003 for taking that time. I like the way you cut that top mount and moved it up. It will be interesting to see if anyone else tries a conversion like this and what they come up with. You've got me thinking! The first time I sat on my Viva, I knew something had to be done with the rear shock. Again, good job! __________________ 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sahara MOAB 2005 BMW E53 X5 2011 Schutt Industries LTT-HC LQG trailer 2017 Coleman CT200U 1978 Yamaha SR500E 1979 Yamaha XS650 Special II
	0

03-31-2007, 06:27 PM	#8
fatboy250 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: COLUMBIA, SC Posts: 973	Two thumbs up on the mod!! I'm curious as to why only 80% satisfied? Jason __________________ 2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000)
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03-31-2007, 01:08 PM	#3
Savage Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 732	Nice work! You should move to China and teach them how to weld. LOL
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03-31-2007, 03:53 PM	#5
ob1 Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 499	Well, you might want to...... J/K!!! Looks good!
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03-31-2007, 10:47 PM	#11
mdsuave13 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: ellicott city, Maryland Posts: 857	yes, the welds are absolutely frieghtening on these bikes.. when i was going thru the pics i was like HOW THE HELL WILL THAT HOLD (looking at the cut mount..) i should have held my breath for another .03 seconds and realized i was retarded for thinking someone would not weld it back... Looks fantastic, maybe you can get someone to re-valve it for more smoothness in the shock? __________________ My name is Justin, my friends call me Stix. 2008 Kawasaki KLR650 Candy Lime Green ______________________________ I am the official China bike registration Guru For the State of Maryland..... HA.
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03-31-2007, 10:48 PM	#12
mdsuave13 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: ellicott city, Maryland Posts: 857	ps. by the time you get done with this bike, its going to be a full out yamaha frankenstein! which may be pretty cool! __________________ My name is Justin, my friends call me Stix. 2008 Kawasaki KLR650 Candy Lime Green ______________________________ I am the official China bike registration Guru For the State of Maryland..... HA.
	0

04-01-2007, 01:13 AM	#13
liverchip Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Mystery Spot Posts: 1,223	Nice work! You ought to be giving welding classes here as well. My work is pretty ugly, but that may be attributed to the Harbor Freight flux welder I'm using. __________________ 2009 XR650L Big Red Pig Tusk bar risers 2007 X-Moto(Jetmoto) GY250 --mods--- 15/40 sprockets UNI Pod Filter 2007 Shineray TMS 200XYi--Betsy Betsy Mods:______________________ Acerbis DHH headlight FMF Powercore pipe Uni Pod Filter
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04-01-2007, 02:29 PM	#14
red2003 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Northern Vermont, USA Posts: 1,218	Hey, thanks for all the support guys. Well, I took all the measurements of the rear shock scissor and made a cardboard model on my kitchen table of the whole rear frame, swingarm, shock, and shock scissor assembly. I now know why I wasn't 100% satisfied, even with the R1 shock. What ever bike the Chinese copied the scissor from obviously wasn't the same bike they copied the rest of the frame from. The shock scissor geometry is so far from correct, it's freakin rediculous. The whole benifit of a scissor assembly is to cradle the shock and provide a progresive shock geometry so as the wheel goes through it's travel the spring/shock rates increase to meet the bigger load placed on the wheel. In other words, the suspension needs be be soft at small wheel travel like over small floater bumps, yet progressively stiffer under large wheel travel like landing from a 100 ft. tabletop jump where the forces exerted on the suspension multiply exponentially. Well the stock scissor is not progressive, in fact its regressive (digressive?? Help me here OB1 ). And worse yet, the geometry of the scissor only let's the rear wheel move about 3 inches then the scissor is fully extended and the only suspension you have left is the scissor mounts flexing and being pulled apart. NOT GOOD. That's why it feels like these bikes are a hardtail. THEY ESSENTIALLY ARE! Soooo, I've drawn up a new scissor assembly that IS progressive and will give me a full 8 inches of rear wheel travel. I'd like to go for more, but I only have 8 inches of travel before the rear brake caliper hits the muffler and the wheel tops out on the inner fender. I will tinker on it this week and post up the results once it's done. This should finally give me the ride I am looking for. I'll keep you all posted. __________________ 2006 Roketa RSX200E MODS: YZ250F Muffler, Airbox delete with K/N style filter, Main Jet reamed 2 sizes over, Yamaha R1 Rear clicker shock on custom scissor linkage making 8 3/4in. of rear wheel travel!!! Battery relocated under seat.
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04-01-2007, 02:35 PM	#15
Savage Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 732	You must be da man!
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