Templar X 250

[chris56ford]

I just received my Templar X 250 6spd. I got it all put together and the starter button doesn't work. After troubleshooting, the starter button doesn't have any incoming power so therefore no outgoing power. The dash lights up when I turn the key on. The starter and starter solenoid work fine if I apply power to the starter solenoid wire that comes from the switch.

Is there a safety switch somewhere on the bike? I don't see a relay anywhere for the starter solenoid but I don't know if these bikes have them. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Chris

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by chris56ford

I just received my Templar X 250 6spd. I got it all put together and the starter button doesn't work. After troubleshooting, the starter button doesn't have any incoming power so therefore no outgoing power. The dash lights up when I turn the key on. The starter and starter solenoid work fine if I apply power to the starter solenoid wire that comes from the switch.

Is there a safety switch somewhere on the bike? I don't see a relay anywhere for the starter solenoid but I don't know if these bikes have them. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Chris

I haven't verified this for fact but believe that the start button gets power from the brake light circuit. Depress either the front or rear brake lever and the starter button should have 12v to send to the starter relay. Easy fix is to engage a brake to start. Harder fix is find an alternate ignition switched +12v source for the starter button and re-wire. I plan to do this but haven't gotten to it yet. I dislike the brake circuit/starter interconnect. Good luck and enjoy the new Templar.

[IA_Grvlrnr]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

I haven't verified this for fact but believe that the start button gets power from the brake light circuit. Depress either the front or rear brake lever and the starter button should have 12v to send to the starter relay.

This is 100% verified and correct. Along with the lack of a full wiring diagram, the brake starter interlock is one of the biggest annoyances on the Templar-X. I have modified mine with a new clutch lever that incorporates a switch and rewired the interlock circuit. Attached are simplified diagrams of both stock and modified circuits and the OTOM OUDIMO-58958 clutch lever kit I used. It comes with a spare clutch cable and choke cable and is currently bargain priced on amazon. OUDIMO-58958

Also attached are photos of the relevant original neck harness wiring.

[IA_Grvlrnr]

Here is a photo of my modified neck harness wiring.

I have other mods to share at some point (how about a CAT delete "kit"?) but I travel alot for work and it is hard to find the time. I really do appreciate all of the folks that have managed to add tips/tricks/mods regularly.

[Thumper]

I got the Preload adjuster (for 3/8" drive).

I am off on a trip until Monday, so can't actually try it right now.



The 3/8 square hole is close to the edge of the metal and the ratchet will hit the shock body if you don't use an extension. No room above the collar...

BUT, maybe I can use a long extension from below. I think this will work. The next question is whether the curve works on this shock. I think it will allow maybe 1/4 turn or less per move. I will use my breaker bar if possible.

[Greathouse]

Hey I wanted to bring up more jetting discussion. I just changed to a 38/115 combo at 4000 feet. Starts and idles well, throttle seems crisp and it almost completely took away a little quick snap throttle bog. I'm thinking this should be on the lean side at my altitude but next size up seems too rich and I can't lean it out with the pilot screw. Anyone at around 4000 feet that can compare?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Greathouse

Hey I wanted to bring up more jetting discussion. I just changed to a 38/115 combo at 4000 feet. Starts and idles well, throttle seems crisp and it almost completely took away a little quick snap throttle bog. I'm thinking this should be on the lean side at my altitude but next size up seems too rich and I can't lean it out with the pilot screw. Anyone at around 4000 feet that can compare?

If you have the original carb, the airmixture screw will need to be drill out (cap covering it).

Opening this (flathead screwdriver, SMALL) adds more AIR in this OEM Youall carb. I closed mine down to ~7/8 turn, but I have 42 pilot, 120 main.

[Greathouse]

Originally Posted by Thumper

If you have the original carb, the airmixture screw will need to be drill out (cap covering it).

Opening this (flathead

screwdriver, SMALL) adds more AIR in this OEM Youall carb. I closed mine down to ~7/8 turn, but I have 42 pilot, 120 main.

What altitude are you at?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Greathouse

What altitude are you at?

~800ft. But keep in mind that there is a little variability in the jets. Your best airmix screw setting might be a little different even at the same altitude!

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by Thumper

If you have the original carb, the airmixture screw will need to be drill out (cap covering it).

Opening this (flathead screwdriver, SMALL) adds more AIR in this OEM Youall carb. I closed mine down to ~7/8 turn, but I have 42 pilot, 120 main.

I am also running 42 pilot, 120 main, no shim at the moment and with the heat and humidity here at the moment the bike is liking that, and I have a 122 on order to play with later on. But my air-mixture screw adjustment is different. So there some variability in the piece per piece coming off the assembly line as likely to reason for variability. Take two exact same brand and same model of carbs out of their boxes and they can have two different tuning settings, close to each other but the fine settings will be different to make up for the variability between them.



So @Greathouse this is why we have recommended starting jetting sizes and airmixture settings but you are expected to do some fine tuning for your specific piece off the assembly line at your location.