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#16 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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will do
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#17 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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Ive checked the carb, both in front and behind, check the inlet manifold which is bolted on tight, i can not see any air leaks or gaps or splits, so im out of ideas.
I managed to get the bike wared up and adjust the idle and slow jet a bit, but when riding, its still running on. Could this be an electrical issues? Is this the CDi? ![]() ![]() ![]() and whats this? rectifier? ![]() |
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#18 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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Yes and yes. :wink:
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#19 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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Could either one of these give me this running issue?
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#20 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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Quote:
I've not read this thread but that sounds like an induction tract air leak to me. Maybe a sticky throttle cablee. Have you done the starter fluid/ carb cleaner/ propane test?
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#21 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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Nope, what test is that?
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#22 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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Start the bike and warm it up. Get it to idle as stable as it will. Spray the intake boot with starting fluid (my favorite) or carb cleaner or a blast of propane from an unlit hand held torch. If the idle changes, usually faster, you have an air leak. This is very common.
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#23 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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ok, will try that thanks.
so am i just checking from the carb to engine? or do i need to go further towards the airbox? surely if there was a leak before the carb, it would not effect the carb as that in itself adjusts how much fuel/air goes into the engine. |
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#24 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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Correct. Between the carb and the engine. I think this will be your problem.
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#25 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I agree with Doc.
You can't determine if there is an o-ring problem where the intake tube meets the head, unless you remove the intake tube. That was the very concern with TurboT's atv.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#26 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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i cant recall if there is a gasket or rubber O ring between the intake manifold and engine, but i know the carb has an O ring to the manifold. Will a paper gasket suffice? thats all ive got to hand to help seal it.
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#27 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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A second o-ring is a better choice, but that's IF the groove is too deep.
Scroll down page four for pics: Fun with TurboT's Gio Beast
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#28 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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ive an idea, i will fill in the groove with some setting gasket sealer or paper gasket, then put the O ring back on top. I dont know what the size of the ring is and dont know where to get one locally.
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#29 |
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawrence, Ks.
Posts: 195
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even a hardware store should have o-rings take the old one with you for the correct size diameter and thickness
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#30 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Are you in the US, kevshek? If so, you can get a decent o-ring kit from Harbor Freight tools for cheap.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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