New to me 2006 Lifan GY2

[Kurt Franz]

After fooling around with the 06 Lifan GY2 I recently obtained in a trade, I have some observations that I offer up. Additionally, I also own the following bikes; 04 Kawasaki KDX200, 08 Kawasaki , KLR650, and a 79 Yamaha DT175, so I have some machinies for comparison purposes as well.

For some time I have been wanting a 4 stroke 200-250cc dualsport bike and was close to picking up a Kawasaki KLX250s, however I could not really justify the expense and never pulled the trigger. When I saw the Lifan on CL and was able to make a straight up trade I bit the bullet, and hence the reason for my appearance on this discussion group.

Since it is obvious that the design of this bike is circa 1980 I compared the suspension and frame to my DT175 which is of the same era. Both of these bikes are street legal dual sport machines - with the DT being a two stroke. The frame on the DT has a cradle for the engine which I believe is a better design than the Lifan which utilizes the engine for rigidity and all it has is that skidplate underneath. However, the Lifan has a better swing arm design as it is more robust than the tubular design on the DT which is actually the same as the rest of the frame. Would have been nice if the Lifan had the cradle, both for support and it would help with using a motorcycle jack for lifting the bike. I have a woods behind my house that I use for keeping my skills sharp and for some light trail riding. It is a loop of approximately 3/4 mile which is relatively flat and mellow with a few rocks, bumps, etc.. Took the Lifan back there for a spin - during which the broken battery box fell off - and immediately came to the conclusion that the DT175 was a better ride in the woods. Everything just seemed "more solid". However, the DT is a 2 stroke 175 and has more oomph than the very mellow Lifan with the highway rear sprocket and worn out street tires. My gut feeling is that the Lifan could be a decent trail bike with a bigger rear sprocket, good knobbies, and the removal of the crappy brittle plastic that is prevalent on the bike. Also that battery box has got to go and the battery relocated to secure location - what were those Chinese designers thinking? I think the engine and the frame are up to the task if there are no serious jumps and air involved - then I believe the frame could break up near the front. However, the DT is not meant for that abuse either.

On the street it is my opinion the lifan would be preferred over the DT as the 4 stroke is more adept to riding at a stable speed. The only real issue I have with the Lifan is that it has nasty vibration at 4-5K. Now I realize that a single cylinder engine is going to vibrate regardless of what is done to it, however, this vibration was not normal - and I know what normal is. It was a real sharp vibration that shook things up pretty good. So, the first thing that came to mind were the fasteners holding the suspended engine to the frame. I tightened those up as best as I could and I did notice that there is a large bolt near the upper back that went thru the frame in a hole that was way bigger than the shaft of the bolt. Looked like poor machining. I addes a washer in there and cranked it as tight as I could. Also tightened up the fasteners holding the gas tank and everything else that could conceivably rattle. After doing this the vibrations s were reduced a bit. If it were not for the vibration I would say that the Lifan offered a pleasant street ride and could be used for some lightweight touring/camping purposes that I intend to do with the bike eventually.

Finally, the only other real problem I encountered was the rear disc brake locking up after riding about 10 minutes or so. Took me a while to figure out what was really occurring but the outcome of that was while riding in the woods i was no longer able to lug my way around as the bike kept stalling. At first I thought it was the transmission or something - but it was the rear disc. It was heated and locked tight as a drum until it cooled off. I was also wondering if this was contributing to the nasty vibration that I previously mentioned - as it would make sense if the engine was having to work harder to maintain speed and there would be a shudder from the severly dragging brake. I am hoping that this issue is resolved with a brake fluid flush and making certain that the master cylinder is not overfilled (thanks guys you know who you are).

Regarding the inferior plastic covers around the fuel tank - I removed that immediately and put it in a box to keep in case I ever sell the bike or restore it some day to its original glory when the value if these bikes skyrockets due to their rarity that will eventually be the case in about 20 years. The bike looks better with the naked fuel tank with no loss of anything of value and there is less rattling. I relocated the horn to a spot on the frame.

The front fairing is a complete failure on these bikes. The plastic is too brittle and the ears that fasten to the frame would be lucky to last a few trail rides. The ones on my bike were "repaired" in four different places and will certainly crack sometime soon. Therefore I need to replace the entire front fairing/headlight assembly. I would not be opposed to hearing any recommendations on this as I am certain that there are decent aftermarket assembiles available along with front fenders as well as I need one of those too.

I was surprised that there is no chain tensioner mechanism on this bike - or if there is one mine is gone - as these are most useful and seemed to be prevalent on bikes of this type. The rear sprocket on the Lifan has a lot of "float" to it if you know what I mean. The fasters were all very tight but ehre is a lot of lateral movement - more than would be expected. I am assuming that there are rubber cush inserts in there but have not taken the rear wheel off yet to inspect. Regardless, new CS and rear sprockets are going on with a new O-Ring chain as well. I was wondering if this could also contribute to the nasty vibration that I mentioned previously?

The engine is a ticky little bugger, but I am not overly concerned as I would rather hear the annoying ticks than silence. I intend to adjust the valves in due time, but I am not overly concerned at this time as the bike runs strong and starts easily. I do not think that anyone messed with the carb on this bike - luckily. Also, I have no intentions of trying to perform any "performance" mods on this bike as is with my KLR650 it would be an exercise in futility as the ROI would be nil. These engines are what they are in my opinion. YMMV however and I am not in any way knocking anyone who has performed mods and hence proved me wrong. Wont be the first time.

All in all I think there is great potential for turning this bike into a nice off highway touring machine that could get me to Alleghany National Forest and back to do some camping - with no issues - once all of the inferior parts are replaced and or upgraded. The nice thing about this project is that I am starting out with a bike that cost me $200 - as this was what I paid for the bike I traded - and for an additional $500-$600 bucks I can theoretically have a poor mans version of the KLX250s that I was really wanting. Also it keeps an old bastard like me off the streets and out of the taverns!

You all take care and be certain to reply to this with all of your thoughts and sage advice regarding parts and upgrades. And if you do respond please be as specific as possible with regards to part numbers, vendors, specs etc...

Oh - if anyone has a rear rack for sale or donation or trade please let me know.

Much Obliged!
KF

[Weldangrind]

Wow; that's a lot to digest. I'll just pick on a few important parts.

You're on track with the motor mounts, but remember that Loctite is your friend. The vibrations can be somewhat reduced with the installation of aluminum bars and some soft grips, like Scott. Also, Mechanix M-Pact gloves offer decent padding and will help some. The frame is the classic XR200 design, where the engine is the stressed member, and it worked for over 20 years without a cradle.

The cush drive is also XR200 in design, but the fasteners suck. It's a good plan to buy Honda bolts when you replace the rear sprocket. New Honda bushings couldn't hurt.

I always install a new 30mm Mikuni (less than $40 shipped on eBay) and dump the stock carb. I find a more free-flowing muffler and booger weld it in place the best I can and rejet the Mikuni. Jet selection will depend upon your mods and elevation, but it's totally worth it.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for taking the time to write your detailed review. I recommend a Baja Designs headlight for your Lifan. The BD headlights illuminate the road/trail very well, and are reasonably priced. In addition, every part of the headlight is also sold as a replacement part. Find the best price, and select your favorite color. The installation is easy. As an added benefit, the BD headlight uses the common H4 bulb, which is brighter, more robust, and sold everywhere. Purchase an H4 socket at any auto parts store to replace the BA20D socket on your wiring harness.

http://www.bajadesigns.com/products/...cle-headlights

I also recommend the Polisport Universal Supermoto Fender. It looks good, is inexpensive, and comes in a variety of colors.

http://www.polisport.com/motorbikes/produtos.php?ID=555

[Kurt Franz]

I have determined that a majority of the "vibration" was caused by the rear disc brake locking up. Now it makes sense why the vibrations got progressively worse as I kept riding.

Although I have my KLR650, this little piece of crap is providing me with some real enjoyment!

out
KF

[Kurt Franz]

Also, took all of the plastic crap off that surrounds the gas tank. That stuff serves absolutely no purpose and rattles like crazy. Added some new rubber bushings in places and some new bolts. The more I work on this thing the more I like it. The great thing is that it is completely old school except for the inverted front forks and the ridiculous "anti lock brakes". My goal is to get this thing in shape for a 500 mile day. I feel confident that it would be fine, I would need 12 hours for the ride though as I think the cruising speed is about 55 mph with the small sprocket on back.

Good times!
out
KF

[Weldangrind]

Good attitude, Kurt! You've got the requisite sense of humour.

BTW, I'd ditch the anit-lock; I don't trust 'em.

[SpudRider]

Yes, you have the China Riders spirit. X2 on ditching the so called ABS.

[katoranger]

The ABS can be removed. The rear brake usually is resolved by adjusting the length of the plunger on the master cylinder. Also bleed some new brake fluid through them.

[FastDoc]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Good attitude, Kurt! You've got the requisite sense of humour.

BTW, I'd ditch the anit-lock; I don't trust 'em.

Amen!

'Although I have my KLR650, this little piece of crap is providing me with some real enjoyment!'

I feel the same way. There is something charming about th simplicity of the CB, and I also like that it's not going to get me any speeding tickets, runs for pennies, and I don't get frustrated by the cars in front of me like I would be on the Ducati or Gold Wing.

I'd hang onto mine/Rons except I need the garage space.

[FastDoc]

A nice 55-ish year old lady has (hopefully) bought Ron's bike and he is transferring it to her now.

I pointed her to our site.

[Kurt Franz]

Originally Posted by katoranger

The ABS can be removed. The rear brake usually is resolved by adjusting the length of the plunger on the master cylinder. Also bleed some new brake fluid through them.

On my reservoir cap the rubber insert provides no extra space for fluid - in essence it takes up the entire reservoir. This is a crazy design along with the fact that the reservoir is mounted on a 45 degreeish angle so when the reservoir is opened a nice stream of DOT3 streams out.

Is this what you are referring to or the actual cylinder itself?

Thanks
KF

[Weldangrind]

I've witnessed the very same behaviour, KF. My solution is to remove the reservoir and fill it to the line while vertical, replace the cap and then re-install it.

No, Kato is describing the pushrod that extends from the bottom of the master cylinder. Adjusting the pushrod will affect pedal placement. Make sure that you apply a little Loctite to the threads and tighten it securely.

[katoranger]

On my bike the pushrod was too long and didn't allow enough travel. Shortening it allow the master cylinder to work properly. This worked until it died completely and I replaced it with a honda cbr part.

[Kurt Franz]

Heck, it might be wise to just replace it with the Honda part now....Regarding the reservoir, the idea about removing and filling makes sense. I am also thinking that installing a longer hose between the reservoir and the cylinder makes sense as well. Then just install the reservoir in the "normal" manner where the cap is parallel to the ground.

Thanks!

[katoranger]

I don't remember what model I bought and it wasn't and exact fit, but I made it work.