TT 125-135-150 buyers Questions - Page 2

JDGnut · 12-20-2015, 11:54 PM

2LZ... Thanks for the posting on the rear wheels being offset.. Flipped them around tonight.. Two inches makes them a little better.. Time to order spacers..

Weldangrind · 12-21-2015, 12:28 PM

Those look like happy girls! Love the big red bow on the front.

2LZ · 12-21-2015, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDGnut

2LZ... Thanks for the posting on the rear wheels being offset.. Flipped them around tonight.. Two inches makes them a little better.. Time to order spacers..

My pleasure...and I stole the idea from one of Weld's posts. ;-) You'll need M10 X 1.5 X 35 flange bolts if you order the same spacers I did, to reinstall the ny-lock nuts on the backside properly.....if they have the same wheel mounts that my Rhino came with. I'd imagine the Bull has the same ones.

Sounds like you had the attack of the Samsonite Gorilla assembling the Bull. It'll take you a while to sort it out and go over where others hands were. I know the Bull and the Rhino share a lot of parts but i haven't run into the gas cap/neutral light cover problem.

The vertical Hondoid motor (non-balance shaft version) is a buzzy one and I expected it in the Rhino. I wasn't aware the 150 GY6 motor had the same buzziness. Double check all the motor mounts and the swingarm pivot bolt. That's a must on any China bike or quad.

I'm thinking of gambling on the Coolster version of this 150 for Mrs 2LZ in a month or so. I'll be posting my experiences with it. I'll be assembling it myself. I'm hoping the foot buckets line up better than he Rhino. I had to redrill almost all the holes.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 12-21-2015, 06:27 PM

Yes the light body is too long... you can buy some light indicators at your local electrical supply store( who sells electronics stuff) and buy the shorter ones.. ..then it will fit the handle bars better.. for the easier steering.. you can just loosen the castle nuts one flat or 2 .. and put the good cotter pins in.. this allows the steering to turn easier.. I do that when little kids will be driving the atv... the TAOTAO 150 D in Canada is tall like the bull.. 23 inch tires on the front 22 on the rear...

JDGnut · 12-21-2015, 09:53 PM

Flashlight.. Which castle nut? I loosened the nut at the bottom of the steering shaft, but it didn't make much difference. I also found that all 4 front ball joints were loose, good thing they put the cotter pins in because that was all that was holding them in.. I had adjusted the right upper A arm last night, but realized tonight it was still way off, so adjusted it out another 1/2in. The inner ball joints for the steering seem like there is not much joint in them.. Kind of like the inner and outer are maxed out on the tie rods. (at their max angle.)
I need to try loosening the upper support for the steering shaft.

I still think if I can drop the front, it will help. There is such a steep angle on the A arm, as soon as it starts to move, everything goes out of whack.

2LZ, thanks for the heads up on the swing arm bolt. I noticed tonight that when you turn the frame leans left and right, the swing arm doesn't. Like the bolt is moving up and down in the swing arm.
(I read through thread on the swing arm rebuild and making bushing.. (Another future project..)

The steering is hard to describe, but almost like the steering ball joints need to be in a different location, to change leverage point.. Feels like a design issue..

Did I mention I like the 135DU.. haha.. I wrench on the other two every night, and put gas in the 135D... (Looks like the rear axle bearings are out on the old Honda... I guess to many years of water, sand and dirt got to it.. )

JDGnut · 12-21-2015, 10:15 PM

And where do I find a parts breakdown of these ATV's.. I really have no idea what they are even cloned after...

2LZ · 12-22-2015, 01:06 PM

JDGnut, I see on the red one FLASHLIGHTBOY posted, the front shocks are mounted on the upper mounts at the lower end of the shock. I mounted my Rhino on the lower mounts. The steering seems ok to me. Maybe your Bull's ball joint angle is too steep in the top mounts? I also found my upper ball joints were mounted tilted (front to back) so I straightened them and put a level on the wheels and matched the cambers, side to side. I set the toe at 1/2" negative after I did the camber.
This may help. Have you double checked the motor mounts yet? Three of mine needed a wee bit more.

12-21-2015, 12:28 PM	#17
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Those look like happy girls! Love the big red bow on the front. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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12-22-2015, 01:06 PM	#22
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,101	JDGnut, I see on the red one FLASHLIGHTBOY posted, the front shocks are mounted on the upper mounts at the lower end of the shock. I mounted my Rhino on the lower mounts. The steering seems ok to me. Maybe your Bull's ball joint angle is too steep in the top mounts? I also found my upper ball joints were mounted tilted (front to back) so I straightened them and put a level on the wheels and matched the cambers, side to side. I set the toe at 1/2" negative after I did the camber. This may help. Have you double checked the motor mounts yet? Three of mine needed a wee bit more. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
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12-20-2015, 11:54 PM	#16
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	2LZ... Thanks for the posting on the rear wheels being offset.. Flipped them around tonight.. Two inches makes them a little better.. Time to order spacers..
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12-21-2015, 09:53 PM	#20
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	Flashlight.. Which castle nut? I loosened the nut at the bottom of the steering shaft, but it didn't make much difference. I also found that all 4 front ball joints were loose, good thing they put the cotter pins in because that was all that was holding them in.. I had adjusted the right upper A arm last night, but realized tonight it was still way off, so adjusted it out another 1/2in. The inner ball joints for the steering seem like there is not much joint in them.. Kind of like the inner and outer are maxed out on the tie rods. (at their max angle.) I need to try loosening the upper support for the steering shaft. I still think if I can drop the front, it will help. There is such a steep angle on the A arm, as soon as it starts to move, everything goes out of whack. 2LZ, thanks for the heads up on the swing arm bolt. I noticed tonight that when you turn the frame leans left and right, the swing arm doesn't. Like the bolt is moving up and down in the swing arm. (I read through thread on the swing arm rebuild and making bushing.. (Another future project..) The steering is hard to describe, but almost like the steering ball joints need to be in a different location, to change leverage point.. Feels like a design issue.. Did I mention I like the 135DU.. haha.. I wrench on the other two every night, and put gas in the 135D... (Looks like the rear axle bearings are out on the old Honda... I guess to many years of water, sand and dirt got to it.. )
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12-21-2015, 10:15 PM	#21
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	And where do I find a parts breakdown of these ATV's.. I really have no idea what they are even cloned after...
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