Tao Tao 150 Bull (150D)

JDGnut · 12-22-2015, 01:06 AM

This is a new Tao Tao 150 Bull.. Having some issues.. Steering, Suspension.. Other than the vibration, and what seems to be poorly designed steering.. Most of the issues seem to be setup issues, as I bought the ATV already assembled.. (or so I thought)
And pretty sure it has the CY6 150cc engine.. (the engine codes out to be 150cc) Which after reading here directed me back to this model..

So basics, where can I find a parts breakdown?

Is there any service information out there?? the papers that came with it must fit every Tao Tao produced.

Only thing I have done so far is to flip the rear wheels around to offset them out 1 in on each side..

Redrilled the front plastic so it fits better, and doesn't rattle..

I have a list of things I want to get upgraded..
1. Lights - LED's
2. Front suspension.
3. Rear wheel spacers.
4. Move the shift indicators, maybe next to the fuel tank or key switch.
5. Adjust the clutch
5. Hp mods will have to wait until my driver can master what we have now.

(This is a spin off my original thread.. I thought it was best to just start a new one, on this one model. )
http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15638

Weldangrind · 12-22-2015, 10:42 AM

May we see some pics of the front suspension?

2LZ · 12-22-2015, 01:08 PM

Spud, Weld, etc... Copy and paste from the other thread. Apologies for the double post.

JDGnut, I see on the red one FLASHLIGHTBOY posted, the front shocks are mounted on the upper mounts at the lower end of the shock. I mounted my Rhino on the lower mounts. The steering seems ok to me. Maybe your Bull's ball joint angle is too steep in the top mounts? I also found my upper ball joints were mounted tilted (front to back) so I straightened them and put a level on the wheels and matched the cambers, side to side. I set the toe at 1/2" negative after I did the camber.

JDGnut · 12-22-2015, 02:47 PM

I'll get a pic.. but its basically the same as the pics posted on the other thread of the red ACT...

The shocks wont fit in the outer set of holes on the bottom.. the shock/strut hits the inner mount.. Basically its too big in diameter to clear the mount.. I can probably bend them out enough to clear.. I've been looking to see if I can change the top mount.. would require welding in new brackets..

JDGnut · 12-22-2015, 11:03 PM

Weldangrind · 12-23-2015, 10:48 AM

It almost looks like the shocks are too long.

Put the front of the quad frame on a jack stand, remove one of the front shocks and cycle the wheel up and down. Tell us if you see bumpsteer anywhere in the range of travel.

Mudflap · 12-23-2015, 10:58 AM

I'd go ahead and bend or cut the bracket so the shocks fit the bottom hole.

2LZ · 12-23-2015, 01:20 PM

When I talked to my CB guy and we were comparing the Coolster to the Bull, the Coolster was noticeably shorter in height. He told me Tao Tao lifted a good portion of their quads in the last year. I wonder if they put on longer shocks or something to achieve this?

JDGnut · 12-23-2015, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It almost looks like the shocks are too long.

Put the front of the quad frame on a jack stand, remove one of the front shocks and cycle the wheel up and down. Tell us if you see bumpsteer anywhere in the range of travel.

It bump steers a lot... I actually wasn't going to buy this model, because when I looked at the display when pushing on the front down.. how much the front wheels towed out.. But after reading, I wanted to get that engine.

Next time I have it off, I'll make a video..

I had the tow in set about 1/4 in.. I gave it more and that helped a little, but its not a fix..

I'll have to see about the lower shock mount, I think to start with, I'll just bend it out..

2LZ · 12-23-2015, 02:14 PM

I just went and shot another pic of mine. Looks like mostly all the same stuff!

JDGnut · 12-23-2015, 02:16 PM

Anyone have suggestions on stopping the rear spring from vibrating.. It really sings at certain RPM's.. It needs a rubber isolator in the middle..

2LZ · 12-23-2015, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDGnut

But after reading, I wanted to get that engine.

That's exactly why I want one. There's a zillion GY6 parts available online for cheap and they're supposed to be reliable as the day is long. Just the assortment of compensator weights and clutch springs really lets you customize how it acts and pulls out of the hole.

JDGnut · 12-27-2015, 12:27 AM

So this is the bump steer.. It currently toes out when it moves up..

I did bend the brackets out and move the shocks to the lower holes, but haven't really ridden it since.

If you look at the pics above, the tie rod angle doesn't follow the angle of the A arms. I moved one of the outer tie rod ball joints to the bottom of the spindle. This caused it to bump steer in. (tow in.) it was too much of a change and was too low. Also the angle of the ball joint on the tie rod was too much, it was actually holding the suspension up.
Basically the inner needs to be raised or the outer lowered, to stop the bump steer. (Almost looks like you could switch the left and right spindles, and change the location of where the tie rod attaches to the spindle.. This would put the brake arm on the bottom, which I wouldn't like. If swapping is even possible. )

I also noticed the bottom of the steering shaft moves from side to side when you steer, not sure if its loose, or not all the way down.. kind of looks like its not fitting into the bushing.

Weldangrind · 12-27-2015, 12:44 PM

Is there a range where bumpsteer doesn't occur? If so, perhaps you could plot a shorter shock range of travel. What length are the existing shocks?

JDGnut · 12-27-2015, 02:15 PM

The way the tie rods are there is always going to bump steer..
Also the A arms will not go parallel to the ground, the upper A ball joint it at its max angle, and stops the arms from traveling.

I'll have to measure the shocks, I found another set of shocks that I had off of something else, that are about 1 inch shorter.. I'll have to check their condition.

12-22-2015, 01:06 AM	#1
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	Tao Tao 150 Bull (150D) This is a new Tao Tao 150 Bull.. Having some issues.. Steering, Suspension.. Other than the vibration, and what seems to be poorly designed steering.. Most of the issues seem to be setup issues, as I bought the ATV already assembled.. (or so I thought) And pretty sure it has the CY6 150cc engine.. (the engine codes out to be 150cc) Which after reading here directed me back to this model.. So basics, where can I find a parts breakdown? Is there any service information out there?? the papers that came with it must fit every Tao Tao produced. Only thing I have done so far is to flip the rear wheels around to offset them out 1 in on each side.. Redrilled the front plastic so it fits better, and doesn't rattle.. I have a list of things I want to get upgraded.. 1. Lights - LED's 2. Front suspension. 3. Rear wheel spacers. 4. Move the shift indicators, maybe next to the fuel tank or key switch. 5. Adjust the clutch 5. Hp mods will have to wait until my driver can master what we have now. (This is a spin off my original thread.. I thought it was best to just start a new one, on this one model. ) http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15638
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12-22-2015, 10:42 AM	#2
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	May we see some pics of the front suspension? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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12-22-2015, 01:08 PM	#3
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,104	Spud, Weld, etc... Copy and paste from the other thread. Apologies for the double post. JDGnut, I see on the red one FLASHLIGHTBOY posted, the front shocks are mounted on the upper mounts at the lower end of the shock. I mounted my Rhino on the lower mounts. The steering seems ok to me. Maybe your Bull's ball joint angle is too steep in the top mounts? I also found my upper ball joints were mounted tilted (front to back) so I straightened them and put a level on the wheels and matched the cambers, side to side. I set the toe at 1/2" negative after I did the camber. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
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12-23-2015, 10:48 AM	#6
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	It almost looks like the shocks are too long. Put the front of the quad frame on a jack stand, remove one of the front shocks and cycle the wheel up and down. Tell us if you see bumpsteer anywhere in the range of travel. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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12-23-2015, 01:20 PM	#8
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,104	When I talked to my CB guy and we were comparing the Coolster to the Bull, the Coolster was noticeably shorter in height. He told me Tao Tao lifted a good portion of their quads in the last year. I wonder if they put on longer shocks or something to achieve this? __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
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12-22-2015, 02:47 PM	#4
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	I'll get a pic.. but its basically the same as the pics posted on the other thread of the red ACT... The shocks wont fit in the outer set of holes on the bottom.. the shock/strut hits the inner mount.. Basically its too big in diameter to clear the mount.. I can probably bend them out enough to clear.. I've been looking to see if I can change the top mount.. would require welding in new brackets..
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12-22-2015, 11:03 PM	#5
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32
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12-23-2015, 10:58 AM	#7
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,894	I'd go ahead and bend or cut the bracket so the shocks fit the bottom hole.
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12-23-2015, 02:14 PM	#10
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,104	I just went and shot another pic of mine. Looks like mostly all the same stuff! __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350 Last edited by 2LZ; 08-29-2016 at 10:54 AM.
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12-23-2015, 02:16 PM	#11
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	Anyone have suggestions on stopping the rear spring from vibrating.. It really sings at certain RPM's.. It needs a rubber isolator in the middle..
	0

12-27-2015, 12:27 AM	#13
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	So this is the bump steer.. It currently toes out when it moves up.. I did bend the brackets out and move the shocks to the lower holes, but haven't really ridden it since. If you look at the pics above, the tie rod angle doesn't follow the angle of the A arms. I moved one of the outer tie rod ball joints to the bottom of the spindle. This caused it to bump steer in. (tow in.) it was too much of a change and was too low. Also the angle of the ball joint on the tie rod was too much, it was actually holding the suspension up. Basically the inner needs to be raised or the outer lowered, to stop the bump steer. (Almost looks like you could switch the left and right spindles, and change the location of where the tie rod attaches to the spindle.. This would put the brake arm on the bottom, which I wouldn't like. If swapping is even possible. ) I also noticed the bottom of the steering shaft moves from side to side when you steer, not sure if its loose, or not all the way down.. kind of looks like its not fitting into the bushing.
	0

12-27-2015, 12:44 PM	#14
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Is there a range where bumpsteer doesn't occur? If so, perhaps you could plot a shorter shock range of travel. What length are the existing shocks? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

12-27-2015, 02:15 PM	#15
JDGnut Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Waxahachie, TX Posts: 32	The way the tie rods are there is always going to bump steer.. Also the A arms will not go parallel to the ground, the upper A ball joint it at its max angle, and stops the arms from traveling. I'll have to measure the shocks, I found another set of shocks that I had off of something else, that are about 1 inch shorter.. I'll have to check their condition.
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