06-12-2017, 09:57 PM
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#2 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: connecticut
Posts: 980
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Just buy it and drop it off at megadans house. I dont think he has the willpower not to build it. Every nut and bolt will be meticulously inspected and installed. That is my plan with my next bike
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06-13-2017, 06:34 AM
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#3 | ||
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,148
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Quote:
As far as torque specs go, I have yet to find any published information on these bikes. Most people use the tried and true Gutentight method. There is a thread in the Dual Sport/Enduro section that lists some torque values based on other similar bikes. I used a majority of those for my assembly mixed with my own experience with fasteners and different materials. There are charts you can find that list appropriate torque values for a given fastener thread size and pitch that can come in handy. Thread locking compound is far more important with these bikes due to the vibrations. It's more important to make a critical fastener check at regular intervals because of this as well, just ask any Harley owner lol. As far as assembly, you can go off of Motocheez's youtube video for Hawk assembly. There are a couple of differences with the 2017 Hawks compared to years past in how they are shipped. You have to install the brake and shift levers yourself, but the hardware bag comes with the necessary springs and cotter pins. Adjustments, if needed (mine didn't actually need any) are no different than the previous years. I will recommend to have a Metric tap and die set handy to chase threads. I found about 5 cross threaded bolts on my bike, but I was able to save all of the holes, and replaced most of the bolts with new ones. Admittedly, many of those bolts are ones you won't remove unless you take the entire bike apart like I did. You can get a decent set from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight for around 20 to 30 bucks, and they sure come in handy for more than just assembling a bike. Other recommendations if you want to take it to 11 like I did. I removed the rear swing arm, and then the bushings so I could apply antisieze to the outer sleeves. I then used waterproof grease on the inner bushing sleeve and bolt as well as the outer faces of the bushings where the dust shield sits to help prevent moisture getting in and causing corrosion, provide lubrication, and reduce degradation of the rubber from friction. Apply that same grease to the front and rear axles, spacers, and shafts as well for the same basic reasons. Change ALL of the fluids - fork oil, engine oil, and brake fluids. I run my favorite brand of synthetic 15wt in mine, 210ml per fork, and it has performed brilliantly over some fairly rough bumps with my heavy self on the bike without bottoming out so far. All you need is a .5L bottle. Also, on the recommendations for tools if you don't have one already. Buy a spoke wrench kit. You will want to at least tighten the spokes up before you ride it, and then recheck them regularly. If you are feeling spendy you can get a Spoke Torque wrench from Tusk. I have one, and it's quite handy at ensuring you never over tighten a spoke. Having two bikes with spoke wheels made this an easy purchase for me, plus I also do wheel lacing and truing on the side for other people. As you can tell, I could prattle on for days... Feel free to ask any specific questions, those are much easier to answer without writing a book. Myself and many other folks on here are very knowledgeable and more than happy to help. Quote:
 Best laugh I have had all day!
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Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124 |
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