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sqwert · 10-22-2017, 03:28 PM

Will a 0.40 inch (10.6mm) taller battery fit? On the road chasing dollars and can't measure myself.

Upgrading headlights to J. W. Speaker adaptive LEDs, 3 of them. Don't need more battery for cruising straight, but fast corners with hard leans the lights draw up to 4.2 amps (79.6 watts) each and will need some battery power to stay bright. Total headlight draw at full tilt low beam 12.6 amps (238.8 watts) max. Deduct the OEM 2.3 amp (35 watt) headlight and according to the CSC website there are 14.7 amps (175 watts) available when she's spinning fast enough.

Upright low beam 5.7 amps (68.6 watts). High beam I can wire the extra electrics CSC included for free (yeah!) to select 1 (6.0 amps, 116.4 watts), 2 (8.3 amps, 144.4 watts), or all 3 (9.6 amps, 182.8 watts), while the others stay on low (except when all 3 are on high), depending on how deserving an oncoming driver needs to be woken up.

The bike is already fitted with 6 rear T/T/Bs that draw a combined 1.4 amps (16.2 watts) when the brake lights are on, which means low engine RPM, so more power from the battery is needed. I still need to fit brighter T/Cs to the front since the new headlights will totally block forward view of the stock turns, so a bit more battery power will be needed at low RPM.

So, I'm looking at a Shorai LFX21A7-BS12. Yes, I am aware of the lithium's heavy draw limits, but in this application that concern simply doesn't apply. Highest draw conditions will be short and relatively infrequent most of the time, so I'm looking for more of a stater type performance. Hence, lithium is a better choice than lead/acid. I don't do prolonged idles, and I'll be able to turn off all headlights from the bars if I want the 4-ways on while stopped along the road for some reason. This battery advertises a CCA of 315, 37% more than the Yuasa YTZ14S claims, and only costs about $20 more. That's why the extra 0.4 inch is so important.

Can anyone do a quick measure for me?

Thanks.

10-22-2017, 03:28 PM	#13
sqwert Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 382	batteries Will a 0.40 inch (10.6mm) taller battery fit? On the road chasing dollars and can't measure myself. Upgrading headlights to J. W. Speaker adaptive LEDs, 3 of them. Don't need more battery for cruising straight, but fast corners with hard leans the lights draw up to 4.2 amps (79.6 watts) each and will need some battery power to stay bright. Total headlight draw at full tilt low beam 12.6 amps (238.8 watts) max. Deduct the OEM 2.3 amp (35 watt) headlight and according to the CSC website there are 14.7 amps (175 watts) available when she's spinning fast enough. Upright low beam 5.7 amps (68.6 watts). High beam I can wire the extra electrics CSC included for free (yeah!) to select 1 (6.0 amps, 116.4 watts), 2 (8.3 amps, 144.4 watts), or all 3 (9.6 amps, 182.8 watts), while the others stay on low (except when all 3 are on high), depending on how deserving an oncoming driver needs to be woken up. The bike is already fitted with 6 rear T/T/Bs that draw a combined 1.4 amps (16.2 watts) when the brake lights are on, which means low engine RPM, so more power from the battery is needed. I still need to fit brighter T/Cs to the front since the new headlights will totally block forward view of the stock turns, so a bit more battery power will be needed at low RPM. So, I'm looking at a Shorai LFX21A7-BS12. Yes, I am aware of the lithium's heavy draw limits, but in this application that concern simply doesn't apply. Highest draw conditions will be short and relatively infrequent most of the time, so I'm looking for more of a stater type performance. Hence, lithium is a better choice than lead/acid. I don't do prolonged idles, and I'll be able to turn off all headlights from the bars if I want the 4-ways on while stopped along the road for some reason. This battery advertises a CCA of 315, 37% more than the Yuasa YTZ14S claims, and only costs about $20 more. That's why the extra 0.4 inch is so important. Can anyone do a quick measure for me? Thanks.
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