Still having some issues - Page 2

sandog · 10-13-2019, 10:42 AM

Alex, it is a Harbor Freight aluminum model.
It was like $105 with Veteran's discount. It works, just a few issues.

Comes with a thru bolt and clamps to take out play when it's in the receiver.
But the hole is too close to my hitch, so I have to clamp down part way onto the receiver, so it's not as effective as if it would be if the brackets clamped down up against where the hitch starts.

There are two eyelets to attach straps midway between the bike and car, but none on the other side of the bike. Straps going straight down will hold the bike down in the rack, but when you brake the bike wants to tilt towards the car.
I ended up running the straps out around the end of the main tube where the clamp that goes against the ramp is. Much better as the straps aren't running straight up and down now.

And when the bike tires drops down into the slots meant for them, they don't want to come out very easy unless you ( and another person preferably) lift the bike up to get it out. There are some big cross pins that you can put in that would make it easier to get the bike out, but then the tires would be resting on top of the pins.
Two of the pins are supposed to go over the rim between spokes to secure the bike down.
I'll probably insert pins first so I don't need help to roll the bike off, even though the bike will ride higher and not have the rims secured.
Four straps ought to hold it in well enough.

And having that 300 pounds way out did make the back end of my SUV sag, it will be worse when I load up with camping gear to head to Parker/Havasu for a couple months this winter. I'll have to have some air bags installed so the ride is level.

alex_in_az · 10-13-2019, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandog

Alex, it is a Harbor Freight aluminum model.
It was like $105 with Veteran's discount. It works, just a few issues.

Comes with a thru bolt and clamps to take out play when it's in the receiver.
But the hole is too close to my hitch, so I have to clamp down part way onto the receiver, so it's not as effective as if it would be if the brackets clamped down up against where the hitch starts.

There are two eyelets to attach straps midway between the bike and car, but none on the other side of the bike. Straps going straight down will hold the bike down in the rack, but when you brake the bike wants to tilt towards the car.
I ended up running the straps out around the end of the main tube where the clamp that goes against the ramp is. Much better as the straps aren't running straight up and down now.

And when the bike tires drops down into the slots meant for them, they don't want to come out very easy unless you ( and another person preferably) lift the bike up to get it out. There are some big cross pins that you can put in that would make it easier to get the bike out, but then the tires would be resting on top of the pins.
Two of the pins are supposed to go over the rim between spokes to secure the bike down.
I'll probably insert pins first so I don't need help to roll the bike off, even though the bike will ride higher and not have the rims secured.
Four straps ought to hold it in well enough.

And having that 300 pounds way out did make the back end of my SUV sag, it will be worse when I load up with camping gear to head to Parker/Havasu for a couple months this winter. I'll have to have some air bags installed so the ride is level.

Thanks, that was very informative.

OneLeggedRider · 10-13-2019, 01:19 PM

Jay had his TBR7 hauled over on a harbor freight carrier when he was having coil trouble and I can attest taking the bike off the rack is almost a 2 man job.

Megadan · 10-13-2019, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandog

we were still having the "dies when slowing down, and hard to restart till it cools a bit" issues.

This is a classic symptom of poor valve adjustment. One or both valves are not sealing when the motor is hot, this loss of compression makes for poor combustion, and for loss of compression through the intake/carb, causing inconsistent fueling that is most noticeable at low RPM and/or loss of air/fuel through the exhaust. The lower than normal compreission at low speed means it is harder for the motor to maintain an idle rpm and can sometimes stall. Follow that up with a hard start condition when the engine is hot, which as the motor cools the valves will then seal again and allow it to start and run. This also means the engine runs better when cold, and then gets worse as it heats up.

My suggestion to anybody chasing tuning/running issues is to double check the valve lash before taking any further steps. Even if you did it just a couple of weeks ago, because improper valve lash clearances will throw off everything else you do as far as tuning (for the reasons mentioned above). This is one of my golden rules that I follow with my own bikes any time I have to do tuning or diagnose a running issue. It's quick and easy to do, usually free in terms of cost, and so simple but so critical that it shouldn't be ignored. One you known for certain that this is not the issue, then move forward with other diagnostics.

When I installed my Nibbi carb and intake it was actually the first thing I did before I started trying to tune the carb, and I had just done it only a couple hundred miles before that.

I am not saying this IS absolutely the issue, but it's a good starting point, especially with a new bike. I set my valve lash at 0 miles and they were tight again in just 200 miles. And then again at 500 miles. By 1000 miles I only had to make a mild adjustment to the intake valve (.01mm) but it still had moved some.

sandog · 10-13-2019, 09:56 PM

I'll check the valves again, but did it yesterday before my ride, as per Baskt Case's suggestions in reply #3 and #5.

Megadan · 10-13-2019, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandog

I'll check the valves again, but did it yesterday before my ride, as per Baskt Case's suggestions in reply #3 and #5.

Well, if you did it yesterday then I think it may be another issue. Out of curiosity, what are you setting the valves to?

OneLeggedRider · 10-13-2019, 11:13 PM

Exactly Dan, that's why I set mine at a loose .005" for the initial break in, and when I reset them at 500 Hawkometers the exhaust was too tight. Valve adjustment is so important, hence the "slapping booth".

sandog · 10-13-2019, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

Well, if you did it yesterday then I think it may be another issue. Out of curiosity, what are you setting the valves to?

The first time I did the valves I used an inch setting recommended in a thread here, I can't remember what it was exactly.
Yesterday I went by this tutorial for a CSC 250, .07mm.
https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/check...lve-adjustment

10-13-2019, 01:19 PM	#18
OneLeggedRider Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Stockport, Oh. Posts: 1,442	Jay had his TBR7 hauled over on a harbor freight carrier when he was having coil trouble and I can attest taking the bike off the rack is almost a 2 man job. __________________ ~ Don't poke the bear ~ M.M.I. Dean's List graduate class of '95 and Specialty welder 2020 Ice Bear Terifecta 150cc Trike 2011 Honda Foreman 500ES 4x4 2001 Polaris Scrambler 400
	1

10-13-2019, 11:13 PM	#22
OneLeggedRider Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Stockport, Oh. Posts: 1,442	Exactly Dan, that's why I set mine at a loose .005" for the initial break in, and when I reset them at 500 Hawkometers the exhaust was too tight. Valve adjustment is so important, hence the "slapping booth". __________________ ~ Don't poke the bear ~ M.M.I. Dean's List graduate class of '95 and Specialty welder 2020 Ice Bear Terifecta 150cc Trike 2011 Honda Foreman 500ES 4x4 2001 Polaris Scrambler 400
	1

10-13-2019, 10:42 AM	#16
sandog Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: North Eastern Arizona Posts: 41	Alex, it is a Harbor Freight aluminum model. It was like $105 with Veteran's discount. It works, just a few issues. Comes with a thru bolt and clamps to take out play when it's in the receiver. But the hole is too close to my hitch, so I have to clamp down part way onto the receiver, so it's not as effective as if it would be if the brackets clamped down up against where the hitch starts. There are two eyelets to attach straps midway between the bike and car, but none on the other side of the bike. Straps going straight down will hold the bike down in the rack, but when you brake the bike wants to tilt towards the car. I ended up running the straps out around the end of the main tube where the clamp that goes against the ramp is. Much better as the straps aren't running straight up and down now. And when the bike tires drops down into the slots meant for them, they don't want to come out very easy unless you ( and another person preferably) lift the bike up to get it out. There are some big cross pins that you can put in that would make it easier to get the bike out, but then the tires would be resting on top of the pins. Two of the pins are supposed to go over the rim between spokes to secure the bike down. I'll probably insert pins first so I don't need help to roll the bike off, even though the bike will ride higher and not have the rims secured. Four straps ought to hold it in well enough. And having that 300 pounds way out did make the back end of my SUV sag, it will be worse when I load up with camping gear to head to Parker/Havasu for a couple months this winter. I'll have to have some air bags installed so the ride is level.
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10-13-2019, 09:56 PM	#20
sandog Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: North Eastern Arizona Posts: 41	I'll check the valves again, but did it yesterday before my ride, as per Baskt Case's suggestions in reply #3 and #5.
	0