Loss of electrical power

[alex_in_az]

My bike has a problem with stalling in traffic and I think it might be due to loss of electrical power. I fitted one of Tako's displays on my TBR7 and I noticed it rebooting itself when the bike stalled. I refitted the original analog speedo and it still seems to be doing it.
Are there any known issues with the ignition or kill switches on these bikes?

[OneLeggedRider]

Usually when they stall in traffic or at a light it's because the clutch isn't releasing enough. My Hawk did it often until I got it adjusted right. As far as the cluster rebooting it might not be wired correctly and/or the starter/ignition draw might be starving it for power when you're cranking it over.

[OneLeggedRider]

Also there's not enough information.
Does it stall even when you shift into neutral before coming to a stop?
Is the cluster rebooting before you hit the starter button?
When you say traffic I'm assuming you mean coming to a full stop correct?
And have you pulled the tank and checked all of your electrical connections?

Jay's TBR7 was slapped together when it comes to wiring. 2 connectors weren't even fully plugged in and the power wire going to the coil was so loose it was literally dancing around on the blade at idle. My Hawk wasn't like that.

[NzBrakelathes]

Where in AZ are you? I’ll be there next week n can maybe bring a couple parts
Sounds like ignition switch issue or loose fuse?
Something is loosing contact from what you’re saying

[JerryHawk250]

What rpm's is it idling at? Should be around 1500 rpm's. Did you adjust the idle mixture screw?
Like OneLeggedRider I would check all the connectors for loose pins. I had a few on my Hawk. I ended up replacing most of my connectors with waterproof connectors.

[Merlin]

Check the ground wire.

[alex_in_az]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

Also there's not enough information.
Does it stall even when you shift into neutral before coming to a stop?
Is the cluster rebooting before you hit the starter button?
When you say traffic I'm assuming you mean coming to a full stop correct?
And have you pulled the tank and checked all of your electrical connections?

Jay's TBR7 was slapped together when it comes to wiring. 2 connectors weren't even fully plugged in and the power wire going to the coil was so loose it was literally dancing around on the blade at idle. My Hawk wasn't like that.

it'll stall in neutral, the cluster would reboot when i was in motion which is why I was leaning towards ignition switch. but a bad connection somewhere could also be the culprit

[alex_in_az]

Originally Posted by NzBrakelathes

Where in AZ are you? I’ll be there next week n can maybe bring a couple parts
Sounds like ignition switch issue or loose fuse?
Something is loosing contact from what you’re saying

north Phoenix/Glendale area

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by alex_in_az

north Phoenix/Glendale area

Cool I’ll be kinda that area a day or 2.
Might just need to pop over etc n see what I can do

[NzBrakelathes]

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=24886

[OneLeggedRider]

It's something very simple I guarantee you. Uhgg.. this is why I could never be a teacher like Megadan or a moderator like Jerry. We're talking about 40yr old stone age technology here. Buy the MMI book I recommended which covers all testing procedures, check all wire connections and switches. Isolate individual components when necessary. But you literally will not find an easier bike to diagnose. Wait till a customer brings in a big EFI Dresser that they have hung and improperly wired 20 different accessories to and it has an intermittent problem that only happens when their grandma attends church services.

[alex_in_az]

SomI checked all the battery connections and grounds, re-seated all the connectors and went to start the engine. Dead battery. So I kick started it and took it out for about a 30 minute run.
I shut the engine off and went to press the starter and nothing. The battery is dead, now batteries don't last long in AZ but they should last longer than 6 weeks. Could somerthing malfunctioning inside the battery have been the problem?

[AresROC]

Battery is battery, disconnect the battery and kick start it. I am in Vegas and my battery is 1yr old and still running strong. (Probably time to take it off to check on acid level, maintenance charge, etc...)

[Megadan]

My Hawk would barely stay running with a dead battery and almost always stall out when I would try to let it idle. Go to Walmart or a local powersports store and pick up a ytz7s or equivalent battery, usually can be found in lead acid for 30-50 bucks, have it charged properly (less than 1 amp max charge rate) and go from there. I diagnosed my battery issue by simply connecting jumpers to a small car battery (car not running!) to supplement the dead one and it started up and idled strong and steady. If you can get it running on its own, disconnect the jumpers and see what your charge voltage is with a multimeter at the battery connections. If you aren't seeing at least 12.7-13 volts at idle (1500rpm) and around 14.3 volts at 5000rpm, then there may be an issue in the charging system. Otherwise, a dead battery can be drawing enough away from the rest of the electrical system to cause weak ignition voltage at idle speed, and thus cut out.

As far as battery life, most small powersports batteries have an average life of 2-3 years tops. Anything more than that is great. Small battery under high charge/discharge conditions and a lot of vibration and shock tends to lead to a short life.