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Old 03-02-2020, 09:43 AM   #1
Speckred17   Speckred17 is offline
 
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Head Scratching Rhino Carburetor Replacement

I know this has been discussed. I have read many threads about it but I am still confused. Is is Pz30? Is it VM26? Is it P227?

I am wanting one that has rich/lean adjustment screw as well as idle.

Please help without flaming. I have searched.


 
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Old 03-02-2020, 10:10 AM   #2
justin1328   justin1328 is offline
 
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This is what I used for my 2019 Rhino and I am very happy with the results. I used a 115 main, 30 pilot and 2nd notch down for the needle setting. You will need to buy the jets separately. Also note that you will need to rig the choke if you want to use the lever on your handle bars, other wise its a manual choke you adjust at the carb.




https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


 
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Old 03-02-2020, 11:02 AM   #3
Speckred17   Speckred17 is offline
 
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No Longer Available

Thank you Justin. I had already looked at that one from earlier posts you had but it is no longer available.


 
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Old 03-02-2020, 05:07 PM   #4
countryboy28   countryboy28 is offline
 
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Motorcycle VM26 30mm Carb Carburetor with Air Filter For PZ30 200cc 250cc Mikuni Honda Hawk Go-kart Taotao SunL JCL JetMoto Kazuma Baja Quad ATV Dirt CRF KLX TTR XR Pit Dirt Bike Motocross
I'm think about getting that for my rhino when i get it also have you checked out whygostock


 
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Old 03-04-2020, 01:59 AM   #5
Rob G   Rob G is offline
 
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I've been relatively happy with the carburetors on my quads, actually more so than the ones I've ordered online. Here's what I do to make the stock ones run the way I want.
Note: keep in mind that the shape of the slide arch is critically important to the runability of the engine so make sure to understand what you're changing when you change a carb.

1. Order an adjustable needle.
2. Order an appropriate jet kit.
3. Use a 1/8" drill bit and drill to drill the brass plug over the idle air mixture screw.
4. Using a dremel tool and cutoff wheel, score the break screws on the float bowl. Be careful not to score the aluminum float bowl.
5. Remove the float bowl screws and throw them away. (Maybe keep 1 to match up at the hardware store)
6. Remove idle adjustment screw and spring.
7. Remove the jets, slide, emulsion tubes, etc.
8. Clean everything with carburetor cleaner, compressed air, and a carb tool or cutting torch cleaner tool.

Now, about carbs, there are 2 jets. The slow jet (also called lots of other things, but this is the one that doesn't have the needle slide in it). The slow jet, in combination with the air mixture screw and slide design, controls everything from idle to 1/4 throttle. The needle position and profile along with the main jet control everything from 1/4 throttle through 3/4 throttle. From 3/4 throttle and up, it's all about the main jet size and profile.

If the idle mixture screw is more than 3 1/2 turns out to get a clean idle then you need a smaller slow jet, if the idle mixture screw is less that 2 turns out to get a clean idle then you need a larger slow jet. If the engine sputters and puffs black smoke when you hit the throttle, it's too rich in the slow jet, needle (set too high), and/or air mixture screw too far out. If the engine winds up and slowly comes back down to idle when you let off the throttle, it's too lean in the needle (set too low in the jet) or main jet to small. If you change the slide and the arch changes, a lower arch will result in a richer mixture and vice versa.

With everything clean:

1. Install the emulsion tube(s).
2. Install the float and fuel inlet needle.
3. Install the jets.
4. Install the float bowl with new screws.
5. Install the idle mixture screw. Softly bottom out then turn 2 turns out.
6. Install the idle set screw with an o-ring that fits INSIDE the body where the spring will keep it pressed in.
7. Set the adjustable needle to the 3rd notch from the bottom and install in the slide.
8. Finish assembling the carburetor.
9. Install.

Once running and at operating temp, first adjust the idle speed screw to about 1200rpm. Then adjust the idle air mixture screw to get the smoothest idle. Then reduce the idle to the desired RPM. Next adjust the idle air mixture scew to get a clean idle.

If jets or needle position need changed, loosen clamps and rotate 90° and make the changes then go through the tuning process again.

If you have any questions, message me and I'll help where and when I can.


 
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Old 03-05-2020, 12:34 PM   #6
Speckred17   Speckred17 is offline
 
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Rob G, Excellent write up. I appreciate the effort it took to do this. I am going to do this on one of my other 4 wheelers.


 
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Old 03-05-2020, 12:37 PM   #7
Speckred17   Speckred17 is offline
 
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I ended up ordering this new carb
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V1H6M37/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I plan to install this weekend. Will let you know how it goes.


 
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Old 03-07-2020, 01:20 PM   #8
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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I did the VM26 on all my CG motored bikes and quad. Good little carbs, jetting readily available. No weird habits, good throttle response.
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Old 03-07-2020, 04:19 PM   #9
Speckred17   Speckred17 is offline
 
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Great Little Carb

Just finished installing it. I had read it before but forgot as I was assembling it: DO NOT FORGET TO UNSCREW THE IDLE SCREW TO ALLOW THE NEEDLE TO DROP ALL THE WAY IN. I missed this step, fired it up and it was idling extremely high. Thought I put the slide in wrong. On this carb, it will only go in 1 way. I was using the cap from the old carb and thought maybe that was the problem so I took it apart.... Same problem. Adjust throttle cable... Same problem. Finally, I backed the idle screw about 4 turns and it started to idle down.

Adjusted the idle where I wanted it and man this thing screams. Way more power than the old carb.

Now if my 11 tooth sprocket will just come in....

If someone is going to order this carb, a couple of the pictures show a carb with Mikuni name on it and it was not. I was not happy that it was not a Mikuni so I contacted them and they credited me $15.00. It was credited the next day. No games or lies.


 
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Old 03-08-2020, 05:07 AM   #10
Rob G   Rob G is offline
 
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Good information for those looking to upgrade carbs.
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Old 05-01-2020, 06:46 PM   #11
JMG   JMG is offline
 
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Just put this carb on today actually and it runs amazing to about 3/4 throttle then bogs. I used the needle that came with it so I assume I'm going to have to order a few others to try. But the off idle throttle response and the power is far better than stock, which constantly stalled. Fixed the main issue I wanted taking care of.


 
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Old 05-01-2020, 07:14 PM   #12
Rob G   Rob G is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMG View Post
Just put this carb on today actually and it runs amazing to about 3/4 throttle then bogs. I used the needle that came with it so I assume I'm going to have to order a few others to try. But the off idle throttle response and the power is far better than stock, which constantly stalled. Fixed the main issue I wanted taking care of.
Just as a general rule: idle is determined by the idle jet, obviously the idle screw, the idle mixture, and the arc in the slide. From idle to 1/4 throttle is mostly the pilot jet and slide arc. From 1/4 throttle through 3/4 throttle is needle position. From 3/4 throttle through WOT is the main jet. By the time you reach 3/4 throttle, the needle is completely or almost completely clear of the main jet. I would first check the needle to make sure it's not down too far causing it to be lean at 3/4+ throttle or too far up causing it to flood out. Almost all aftermarket carbs will have an adjustable needle. If that doesn't fix it, jetting should.

Best of luck.
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