Tbr forks

[Captcj68chris@aol.]

Hi all. 2020 tbr7, I change out the fluid in my forks, 6 oz. Each came out.
Replaced with 6 oz. Atf III. Took out preload spacers, 10mm, lowered
The forks 1 1/2 inches, shock preload all way down. (Light,short guy <)
However front forks are still harsh, even on 1st gear trail bumps!
Sends a jolt up to the bars, haven't ridden with anyone who can observe
The front action going on. I know it's not bottomed out. I did notice that
The front fork springs were installed with the tighter coils of the spring
On the lower part of the forks.can't find any info on others taking there
Forks apart that show the orientation of the springs, my question is.....
Is it supposed to be like this? I have noticed on the rear shocks of other
Older bikes I've had in the past the coils got tighter at the top of the shock
Any info thanks.

[Red Hawk]

Spring orientation tightly wound up or down won’t make any difference at all. Try 5wt or 7wt Bell Ray fork oil. (I run 5wt 210ml I'm 190# slow trail riding) It will make a world of difference of what was questionable what were they thinking when they built these forks. Also properly inflated tires are key. Low pressure counteract’s the fork springs in a big way and you run the risk of pinch flats. About 25# makes the springs actually work Vs. just the tire flexing and counteracting any fork spring movement.

[Megadan]

The orientation of the tighter coil wind will only have a minor affect on unsprung mass, and it is a very minor affect. Otherwise, the spring will still behave the same way. I have seen bikes come with one coil inverted from the other.

The TBR7 likely uses the same basic springs as the Hawk, and while the primary rate (softer rate) is probably just about right for you, the secondary rate is actually quite firm. So firm that it is actually more ideal for heavier riders. The real issue is that the primary rate only comprises a couple inches of the total travel, which you are likely taking up with rider sag. That puts you right into the stiffer secondary coil rates.

I was going to suggest less fluid, but you are already running close to the minimum level for these forks (5.6 oz or 165ml is min, 6 ounces is 177ml) so there is no real air spring effect you are running into.

The problem with ATF is that it's viscosity can range from 5 to 10 wt. oil, and there is no way to really tell. That said, there isn't a HUGE difference between 5 and 10 wt oil in how most forks will perform either. Still, you could try a dedicated 5 weight.

Final thought... How many miles on the bike? In the ownership of two Hawks I have noted in both cases it took a little while for the forks to really loosen up. The springs take some time to settle and the internal and externals seals and bushings need to wear in a bit. Once they do the front end usually softens up a little bit.

[kingofqueenz]

Chris or CJ, or Capt (whichever you prefer ),

I have a vid up on fork oil change and lowering, looks like my tighter coils of the spring were on the bottom ( of course per Dan and co ...may not matter much ).

I'm 99.99% street riding, so pay no mind that I used 15wt, I also go 220lbs again, perhaps not your specs. but I did lower my forks because the bike sits tall ( I lowered the rear adjustable shock as well some time ago ).

Good luck, seems like you got some sound advice above

[Captcj68chris@aol.]

Hi all, megadan and king, thanks for the response, I only have 150km. On the bike so
Far, I'm hoping the losen up a bit. Still waiting on my 17 tooth and my jets to play
With. Chain has stretched what to me seems like a lot in only 150 km. Just taking
It nice and slow, putting around for now.
Night all

[kingofqueenz]

New jetting and 17 tooth front sprocket will make it a new bike.... night and day, you will see.

[Jpman3]

I'm 190lbs and thought the front forks were way to soft. The front end nose dived a lot when stopping. I used Lucas 15w synthetic fork oil ( 6oz per leg ) and enough washers with the stock spaer to equal 3/4 inch. Much, much better!