No spark Zongshen LZX 200

[Rickus]

Originally Posted by ChillRider

Are you certain you have no kill switch? As in, there's actually nothing bolted on top of the kickstand/or it's there but has been disabled/bypassed?



FWIW, I was convinced mine was non-functional, but during a recent inspection I found out it was indeed functional, only that it was bolted incorrectlty to the frame (with only one screw!) and it simply didn't reach the kickstand. Even after corectly reinstalling it however, its actuator was still too short to engage the kickstand.

Will check again as I noticed the bike has had several modifications such as removal of tail light and signals. It has to be something like a kill switch though since Im getting resistance all the way to the end of the spark plug when checking with a fluke meter. I pulled the plug, and held on to it while cranking so Im certain no spark since I didnt feel it.

[ChillRider]

Originally Posted by Rickus

Im getting resistance all the way to the end of the spark plug when checking with a fluke meter.

How/where do you measure this resistance? Both sides of the ignition coil should read some amount of resistance, however this should be different at each side (CDI side should be relatively low, spark plug side should be relatively high) and, by no means, there should be any electrical continuity between CDI/spark side: the coupling should be purely inductive. If it's not, or if you read an open circuit at either side, then something has given.

[Rickus]

Originally Posted by ChillRider

How/where do you measure this resistance? Both sides of the ignition coil should read some amount of resistance, however this should be different at each side (CDI side should be relatively low, spark plug side should be relatively high) and, by no means, there should be any electrical continuity between CDI/spark side: the coupling should be purely inductive. If it's not, or if you read an open circuit at either side, then something has given.

I am a rookie with the fluke meter but thought if i was reading a number then I had continuity. I will have to check but I think I was getting high 30's at the coil/spark plug connector. I may be better off just replacing the whole electrical system. I would rather DIY it than shell out a bunch of cash at a repair shop.

FYI to get my resistance readings at the spark plug connections I placed the black prong on a bolt grounded to frame and inserted the red and readings were shown I cannot recall exactly the numbers. I will have to perform again and write them down. Thanks for all the help ChillRider.

[ChillRider]

Needless to say, to measure the coil or any other electrical component of the bike, especially one that may attach (or short...) to the ground/common or be connected in parallel with other components, it should first be removed/isolated from the bike.

However, usually ignition coils are electrically connected to the ground on both the input (+12V) and output (spark) side by design, so in that case you must measure both sides with reference the common ground without removing anything, except maybe from the CDI unit. You should still get two different resistances at each side (Ri + Ro), and measuring the resistance directly between input and output (no ground) should give you their equivalent series resistance (Rt = Ri + Ro).





If Rt is significantly lower than the sum of Ri + Ro, then you have a short between input/output. Also, if either Ri or Ro is infinite, then that side has failed open. It is also possible for the output side to fail closed (0 Ohms relative to ground, aka shorted).