Oil cooler ?? Gear ratio ??

[old_airhead]

tknj99, if you look at one of fittings on the end of the hoses you will notice that it is machined out, which is an open space where the oil flows around the bolt. Works the same as brake line banjo bolts. I doubt aligning the holes will make much of a difference.
https://www.revzilla.com/common-trea...s-a-banjo-bolt
The adaptor is also machined out to work the same way, but you might want to keep track of which hole is in and which is out.

As far as the filter question goes, I don't know if it makes a difference. Someone else will need to answer that one. I just hooked mine up the easiest way for the hoses. Perhaps the Chinese instruction sheet that came with the cooler answers that, but my Chinese is a bit rusty.

Does anyone have any quantitative data about how much these coolers actually drop the oil temperature? I've done some winter riding this year (38 degrees F, plus). I'm wondering if the cooler should be covered when riding in the cold?

[tknj99]

Thanks, thats great to know, ill keep an eye on the fittings when the replacement shows up soon..
With regard to the temp question, i believe i read in another thread that it cools the oil down around 20 degrees less.

[China Rider 27]

Originally Posted by tknj99

@old_airhead:

By the way, still have a slow leak at the oil adapter, either from the adapter or one or both of the attached lines. To be on the safe side, i have a warranty replacement on the way and will swap out the adapter and banjo bolts and washers when they arrive. I'm guessing as well that when it comes to these banjo crush washers, they are a 1-time install thing and need to be replaced anytime the line is removed

Most likely it is leaking from the adapter. You need to loosen the banjo bolts a little then rotate the adapter towards the rear wheel to get a better seal.

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

Most likely it is leaking from the adapter. You need to loosen the banjo bolts a little then rotate the adapter towards the rear wheel to get a better seal.

I did tighten it down pretty well.. with the Brozz, you need to remove the skid plate and even then that adapter 2-prong tool doesnt sit so well as it hits the frame and winds up angled a bit.. what i did was clamp a vise grip on the end of the tool for extra leverage and then tightened it up as much as i could.
Perhaps there's more to go like you mentioned.. im not going to mess with this one but will make sure i tighten it as good as i can when the new one arrives.. and now that i dont have to worry about aligning the banjo bolts i will tighten those snug but not overtighten them as i probably did originally in order to get them aligned.

Did you have any luck with your setup? if i recall you also got a replacement adapter, did it work any better?

[tknj99]

Also, did you guys use a torque wrench on the banjo bolts? If so, whats the torque spec on those? I just tighten originally trying to get the hole aligned, no idea to what torque but if theres a proper spec would like to apply that next time for sure

[China Rider 27]

Not yet, still working on it. Its not the adapter, something about how the blue seal fits I think is keeping it from seating fully.

[tknj99]

Gotcha.. let us know how your replacement adapter turns out. Mine is still slow dripping overnite and i have the replacement arriving tomorrow and will report the results after it sits overnite once its done.

One thing i noticed though, and curious if you guys notice this as well is that I hear a buzzing sound for the first 30-45 seconds or so after starting cold.. it then goes away afterwards and subsequent startups sound normal when warm/hot. Is that normal?
I know the cooler is definitely working as its hot to the touch after a ride.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by tknj99

One thing i noticed though, and curious if you guys notice this as well is that I hear a buzzing sound for the first 30-45 seconds or so after starting cold.. it then goes away afterwards and subsequent startups sound normal when warm/hot. Is that normal?
I know the cooler is definitely working as its hot to the touch after a ride.

I get no buzz from my bike. Did you prime the system before starting the bike for the first time? That buzz you hear sounds like the oil pump might be pulling on air.

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I get no buzz from my bike. Did you prime the system before starting the bike for the first time? That buzz you hear sounds like the oil pump might be pulling on air.

Yes, i filled about 120ml in the cooler before first start when installed but didnt add anything in the lines. I know there's a tiny leak either from the adapter or the attached banjo lines. Interestingly the sound goes away shortly after the cold start; i'd suspect if it were pulling air the buzzing would be constant anytime the bike is running and perhaps get worse as the oil warmed up as it would be thinner (15w40)?

I know this is nowhere near a direct comparison but found this online when searchigng "oil cooler buzz". Btw, the last 2 cold starts were in the 40-50 degree range days.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/th...ection.444119/

The noise is quite common in cooler temps and seems to simply be a function of the colder oil/friction internally. My '89 328 did it regularly at temps of 50F and below for the first couple of minutes after cold start-up using 20W50 installed at a local Ferrari/exotic shop at the car's first oil change after I purchased it. It has never done it at those temps since I switched to Mobil 1 0W40 a couple of years ago.

IMO, I wouldn't worry about the noise at all. OTOH, if it's a big deal to your wife then it IS a BIG DEAL and must be fixed! Try 0W40 before messing with plumbing.

[tknj99]

Update: i certainly light up the goober-ometer sometimes thats for sure.. yesterday i noticed a rubber o-ring on my workbench and was like you gotta be #$%# kidding me.. well confirmed just now, i had installed the oil adapter without the rubber o-ring so yea, face palm, and that was the reason for the oil leak..
Anyway, i have it drained now and the new parts will be delivered this afternoon so just to be on the safe side will install the new oil adapter WITH the rubber o-ring and use new crush washers for the connections.. I'm guessing thats probably the reason for the buzzing noise on cold start as well.. will circle back tomorrow again


So, PSA, the blue seal comes attached to the oil adapter but not the rubber o-ring.. dont miss installing it like i did

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Update: i certainly light up the goober-ometer sometimes thats for sure.. yesterday i noticed a rubber o-ring on my workbench and was like you gotta be #$%# kidding me.. well confirmed just now, i had installed the oil adapter without the rubber o-ring so yea, face palm, and that was the reason for the oil leak..
Anyway, i have it drained now and the new parts will be delivered this afternoon so just to be on the safe side will install the new oil adapter WITH the rubber o-ring and use new crush washers for the connections.. I'm guessing thats probably the reason for the buzzing noise on cold start as well.. will circle back tomorrow again


So, PSA, the blue seal comes attached to the oil adapter but not the rubber o-ring.. dont miss installing it like i did

Don't you hate when that happens. Glad you got is figured out.

[tknj99]

Update: received the replacement order. I installed the new oil adapter WITH o-ring and connected everything back up. This time, i guess since the o-ring was installed with the adapter, the bottom line wound up going about 25 degrees clockwise past the bottom center-line.. so instead of being at the 6 o'clock position its in the 7:30 ish position. I started thinking about it and dont think it needs to be marked and dont think it matters in the end where it lines up.. since the blue oil seal separates the oil inlet from the sump, as long as a seal is made then the oil inlet will have no choice but suck oil as it flows from the top line. Same thing for the bottom oil sump.
I ran the bike idling for a good 10 minutes and the oil cooler did start to warm up so i know its getting oil and working. Also, so far, no oil leaks.. hopefully no changes overnite
So it looks like the online videos where they are marking the banjo bolts and the oil adapter can be skipped as its not needed.. if you guys disagree please let me know.
I can tell you this though, with the oil adapter mark in the 6 o'clock position it was not tightly seated as when i went to snug down the top banjo bolt, the oil adapter rotated to its resting spot at 7:30 position.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by tknj99

I can tell you this though, with the oil adapter mark in the 6 o'clock position it was not tightly seated as when i went to snug down the top banjo bolt, the oil adapter rotated to its resting spot at 7:30 position.

That's how it is on my X22R. On my Hawk and Ghost are at 6 and 12.

[tknj99]

Thanks for that info.. i think its good that this info is documented as although a youtube video i watched was very informative, it also had unnecessary steps that at worst cold cause issues, ie.. marking the banjo bolts and then winding up overtightening them so that you get it lined up as shown in the video, same goes for the oil adapter marking.. leaving it at the 6 o'clock position and its not tight enough and could cause leaks, trying to force it all the way around again and you could end up stripping the threads, definitely not a good thing...

Last update: no leaks overnite.. great success!

[CheapThrills]

I've been looking around and want to compare oil coolers that connect to the head and to the sump. However, not finding many head versions. Does anyone have one?


Thx,