Hi-Bird 200 assembly questions - Page 3

Hmanfl · 06-01-2008, 10:27 AM

One last question... On the front fender, there are three mounting holes, in which you place three rubber grommets. There also three brass spacers, that we assume go in the grommets, but we're not exactly sure if they go between the grommets and the mounts on top of the fender, or between the grommets and the mounting plate on the bottom side of the fender. (Man I wish I had pictures to help explain this one.)[/quote]

Here is how I put mine together, not saying it was the right way

Mounting Plate, Grommets, Fender, 2 Mounting Brackets, Front Forks.

So "between the grommets and the mounting plate on the bottom side of the fender"

Hope this helps

Komoto250cc · 06-01-2008, 10:48 PM

Interestingly, I have a hibird 200GY manual for my 250GY. It says you should initially change the oil in a month, then six months. Then it lists "every 9 months and 1 year." It's all Chinese to me!

Cerviperus · 06-02-2008, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trebek

The front brake didn't work so I bled it. Now it works but is kind of weak but much better.

Both of my brakes feel a little on the weak side. How did you go about bleeding the front one? I might attempt it with both.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trebek

Also (a question for Hibird owners with upsidedown forks): The bike feels a bit wobbly, maybe it's because I'm used to my Kaw 650 streetbike, but I don't know. It feels like something could be wrong like the wheels aren't pointing straight. My main worry is that I installed that front axle bushing backwards. I put it with the big side out on the disk side of the wheel, it looks like the right place for it to go. I also hear a slight clicking sound coming from the front axle.

I installed the bushing the same way you did, but I don't really notice any wobble in mine. Also, the only "clicking" sound I hear is from the motor when it's running. Aside from the many parts that vibrate right now. I plan to remove the silver shield from the muffler to eliminate one rattle, but I'm not sure if it would get too hot and melt the plastic side cover. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

Komoto250cc · 06-02-2008, 12:55 PM

Oh, the plastic above the muffler is going to melt. I noticed a lot of guys on here just took them off. Make sure you breathe in the toxic fumes from the melting plastic. It does wonders for the brain.

Trebek · 06-02-2008, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cerviperus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trebek

The front brake didn't work so I bled it. Now it works but is kind of weak but much better.

Both of my brakes feel a little on the weak side. How did you go about bleeding the front one? I might attempt it with both.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trebek

Also (a question for Hibird owners with upsidedown forks): The bike feels a bit wobbly, maybe it's because I'm used to my Kaw 650 streetbike, but I don't know. It feels like something could be wrong like the wheels aren't pointing straight. My main worry is that I installed that front axle bushing backwards. I put it with the big side out on the disk side of the wheel, it looks like the right place for it to go. I also hear a slight clicking sound coming from the front axle.

I installed the bushing the same way you did, but I don't really notice any wobble in mine. Also, the only "clicking" sound I hear is from the motor when it's running. Aside from the many parts that vibrate right now. I plan to remove the silver shield from the muffler to eliminate one rattle, but I'm not sure if it would get too hot and melt the plastic side cover. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

To bleed the brakes have someone squeeze the brake lever slowly about 10 times and then hold the lever in. While your buddy holds in the brake lever, you unscrew the nipple where the brake line goes in the front disc assembly (slave cylinder). Only unscrew it until fluid (and hopefully air bubbles) come out, then tighten (MAKE SURE YOUR ASSISTANT HOLDS THE LEVER ALL THE WAY DOWN UNTIL YOU TIGHTEN THE NIPPLE). Then repeat the process several times, taking care to keep the fluid resevior topped up, it's ok to leave the resevior plate off during this process.

Hope this helps.

Trebek · 06-02-2008, 02:55 PM

I'd leave the heat guard on and find some way to tighten it down. Yesterday I was riding in shorts and the heat really got to my leg with the guard on.

Cerviperus · 06-02-2008, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trebek

I'd leave the heat guard on and find some way to tighten it down. Yesterday I was riding in shorts and the heat really got to my leg with the guard on.

I'm referring to the guard on the actual muffler, not the pipe. It would actually roast a passenger's inner thigh more so than my own. :twisted: The one that sits on the pipe by my leg is fine.

Trebek · 06-02-2008, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cerviperus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trebek

I'd leave the heat guard on and find some way to tighten it down. Yesterday I was riding in shorts and the heat really got to my leg with the guard on.

I'm referring to the guard on the actual muffler, not the pipe. It would actually roast a passenger's inner thigh more so than my own. :twisted: The one that sits on the pipe by my leg is fine.

Yes, but that would prevent you from giving all these "Chinese Bike Lovin' Hotties" a ride when they ask!

Cerviperus · 06-02-2008, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trebek

Yes, but that would prevent you from giving all these "Chinese Bike Lovin' Hotties" a ride when they ask!

Heh... two problems with that. One, my girlfriend wouldn't allow any other hotties to ride anyway, and two, she probably won't be on it much anyway. I got it pretty much as a light trail bike, and for my daily work commute. For any other rides that she'll be on for, we'll take my Venture.

So needless to say, I'm not concerned about burning any thighs, I just don't want to melt my side panel. I have enough flames on there as it is (man those flame stickers are ugly).

lego1970 · 06-02-2008, 04:05 PM

If you don't have a freind to squeeze the brake lever you can use a zip tie on the brake lever, but just be sure to open the valve real slow and close it before the pressure drops to low or you'll end up getting air back into the system. Likewise if you want to set the preload on inverted forks, zip ties are good for measuring the distance that the forks compress under load if you have to do the measuring by yourself. Measure the zip tie from a fixed sprung weight object then sit on the bike, get off and measure the new distance from the zip tie to the top of something that is fixed to the sprung wieght of the bike.

Komoto250cc · 06-02-2008, 06:41 PM

I thought you were talking about the tear drop shaped plastic peice right above the shiny guard below your leg. It's going to melt and you will smell plastic burning. I don't know why those damn chinese put plastic an inch away from the god damn muffler.

06-01-2008, 10:27 AM	#31
Hmanfl Join Date: May 2008 Location: Orange City Florida Posts: 23	Front Fender One last question... On the front fender, there are three mounting holes, in which you place three rubber grommets. There also three brass spacers, that we assume go in the grommets, but we're not exactly sure if they go between the grommets and the mounts on top of the fender, or between the grommets and the mounting plate on the bottom side of the fender. (Man I wish I had pictures to help explain this one.)[/quote] Here is how I put mine together, not saying it was the right way Mounting Plate, Grommets, Fender, 2 Mounting Brackets, Front Forks. So "between the grommets and the mounting plate on the bottom side of the fender" Hope this helps __________________ 2007 Komoto GY250 Unipod Filter, 115 Jet, Battery Under Seat, 17/40 Sprockets, Duro Tires - 1500 Miles
	0

06-01-2008, 10:48 PM	#32
Komoto250cc Join Date: May 2008 Location: Fargo, ND Posts: 45	Chaning oil Interestingly, I have a hibird 200GY manual for my 250GY. It says you should initially change the oil in a month, then six months. Then it lists "every 9 months and 1 year." It's all Chinese to me!
	0

06-02-2008, 12:55 PM	#34
Komoto250cc Join Date: May 2008 Location: Fargo, ND Posts: 45	melting plastic Oh, the plastic above the muffler is going to melt. I noticed a lot of guys on here just took them off. Make sure you breathe in the toxic fumes from the melting plastic. It does wonders for the brain.
	0

06-02-2008, 06:41 PM	#41
Komoto250cc Join Date: May 2008 Location: Fargo, ND Posts: 45	burning plastic I thought you were talking about the tear drop shaped plastic peice right above the shiny guard below your leg. It's going to melt and you will smell plastic burning. I don't know why those damn chinese put plastic an inch away from the god damn muffler.
	0

06-02-2008, 02:55 PM	#36
Trebek Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 150	I'd leave the heat guard on and find some way to tighten it down. Yesterday I was riding in shorts and the heat really got to my leg with the guard on.
	0

06-02-2008, 04:05 PM	#40
lego1970 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Blue Springs, Missouri. United States Posts: 505	If you don't have a freind to squeeze the brake lever you can use a zip tie on the brake lever, but just be sure to open the valve real slow and close it before the pressure drops to low or you'll end up getting air back into the system. Likewise if you want to set the preload on inverted forks, zip ties are good for measuring the distance that the forks compress under load if you have to do the measuring by yourself. Measure the zip tie from a fixed sprung weight object then sit on the bike, get off and measure the new distance from the zip tie to the top of something that is fixed to the sprung wieght of the bike.
	0