Hawk DLX dies and won't start now - Page 2

Sailor4809 · 04-07-2023, 09:49 AM

Still arcing from fuse with all connectors disconnected and light bulb out. That's half of everything so getting somewhere I think lol

Deckard_Cain · 04-07-2023, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sailor4809

Still arcing from fuse with all connectors disconnected and light bulb out. That's half of everything so getting somewhere I think lol

Getting there.. just need to narrow down what "thing" that circuit is for and what that fuse is protecting.

If you've disconnected the Delphi PCM, that's good.. it's likely not for the FI or computer circuit.

Oh, and if it holds the same as every other China bike/quad/machine I've ever seen in my life, ground wires are always GREEN.

Since you also lose spark, I'd shift focus at seeing if you can confirm that this circuit might be for the ignition system. Perhaps the coil or CDI is shorted to ground.

DanDLion · 04-07-2023, 11:54 AM

Sounds like your doing a great investigation!

Keep it up you'll be back riding in no time! These troubleshooting sessions can be really frustrating when you just want to ride and its your only bike, but you got this your almost there.

While your checking the wiring, verify all ground connections are good especially to the frame (tight with metal on metal contact).

Sailor4809 · 04-07-2023, 01:51 PM

So here's how things went.
I used a blown light up fuse in the fuse holder while pulling every single connector, starting from the front of the bike and working aft, working in thirds (front, aft, central). I would attempt to put a new fuse in but would instantly get a spark when the fuse would touch the connection points of the fuse holder. Working in the central the only time it would not light up is disconnecting the hot wire connection to the solinoid. Even disconnecting the negative connectors running to the engine (grounding wire) it stayed lit and sparks with new fuse like mentioned above. Disconnected the two small wires going to the coil pack and still had an illuminated fuse.
Is it fair to assume it is due to a bad solinoid or how would I go about testing it? Or is it from a bad grounding wire going to the engine. Hmmm. I love tinkering with stuff until electricity is involved

clash 168cc · 04-07-2023, 01:57 PM

Follow both wires from that 1 fuse. You should find the short.

J4Fun · 04-07-2023, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clash 168cc

Follow both wires from that 1 fuse. You should find the short.

My thought too, or you could go from the on/off switch on the right handle bar and follow it into the wiring mess behind the headlight. I have a Hawk DLX also. My thought is you have a short close to the steering neck/triple tree. My thought and hope you let us guys know the outcome, but my bet is around the neck!

clash 168cc · 04-07-2023, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J4Fun

My thought too, or you could go from the on/off switch on the right handle bar and follow it into the wiring mess behind the headlight. I have a Hawk DLX also. My thought is you have a short close to the steering neck/triple tree. My thought and hope you let us guys know the outcome, but my bet is around the neck!

The short must be on those 2 wires or what they connect to.

Sailor4809 · 04-08-2023, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanDLion

Sounds like your doing a great investigation!

Keep it up you'll be back riding in no time! These troubleshooting sessions can be really frustrating when you just want to ride and its your only bike, but you got this your almost there.

While your checking the wiring, verify all ground connections are good especially to the frame (tight with metal on metal contact).

Where are all the groundings at. I can only find on the engine case

buzz · 04-08-2023, 08:36 AM

Should be green or black for ground.

Sailor4809 · 04-08-2023, 10:33 AM

So bought a multimeter, another box of fuses and just got home from working third shift. Took the panels and seat off again and tested the voltage of the battery as a test of the multimeter, which works. Tested continuity of the solinoid and it was correct, tested the fuse box to see which was hotwire (red not the red white, stupid I know but no sleep in 2 days). Take a sip of my coffee and pulled connection boxes out and thought heck I'll go ahead and pop a fuse in JUST to be sure.... didn't blow the fuse. Stood up and just stared at the bike. Turned kill switch to kill, headlight kill switch engaged, turn key on- fuse no blow. Moment of truth it fired up. Took an extra turn because of not being ran an toggling power on an off all day yesterday. Let it idle for 5 minutes and blipped the throttle a few times and she still ran. Going to go ride around the block like it's brickyard 400 and pray it stays going. It's my only mode of transportation right now and same time northern Indiana is hitting 80s next week.

BriNbigD · 11-12-2023, 10:20 AM

Have you had any more problems?

I have less than 10 miles on my 2023 DLX (that I bought assembled and tested, p/u local). Yesterday was going out pulled up kickstand and bike died. No power to anything with key on. Blew one of the 15amp fuses. Installed new fuse and fired up fine. I have not driven off road or in water. Now I’m nervous about blowing the fuse again. Will be inspecting all wires and dielectric greasing all plugs.

But I’m wondering if there is a missing ground from the stator, or something. Would appreciate any updates or similar experiences.

HMCM(SW)[Ret]

Sailor4809 · 11-16-2023, 02:07 PM

No master chief, it worked itself out. I had unplugged everything and kept blowing fuses. I tested the solinoid with a multimeter and it showed good numbers. Thought hell with it I'll use one more fuse and it's ran ever since. Lot of electrical issues I've had to learn on the side of the road. Recommend getting a tail bag and have a kit made up

BriNbigD · 11-16-2023, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sailor4809

No master chief, it worked itself out. I had unplugged everything and kept blowing fuses. I tested the solinoid with a multimeter and it showed good numbers. Thought hell with it I'll use one more fuse and it's ran ever since. Lot of electrical issues I've had to learn on the side of the road. Recommend getting a tail bag and have a kit made up

I replaced mine with a new (probably higher quality) fuse and ridden about 50 miles and can not get it to blow… So, I’m gonna chalk it up to a gremlin in a faulty fuse. BTW, were you a CT?
V/R
BriNbigD

Sailor4809 · 11-18-2023, 06:24 PM

Went to CID Pensacola for CTN, failed on last module twice and got sent undes. Struck out QM

BriNbigD · 11-19-2023, 10:37 AM

Just asked because 4809 is a CT NEC. Obviously, I was a Corpsman. I was a Pharmacy Technician, then an IDC on tin cans, where my best friends were SMs (that have been converted to QMs). Retired as CMC of the 3 med clinics in New Orleans. My adult children are still down there. Fair winds brother! Thank you for your service!

04-07-2023, 09:49 AM	#16
Sailor4809 Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana Posts: 26	Still arcing from fuse with all connectors disconnected and light bulb out. That's half of everything so getting somewhere I think lol Attached Thumbnails
	0

11-12-2023, 10:20 AM	#26
BriNbigD Join Date: Oct 2023 Location: DFW Posts: 64	Updates? Have you had any more problems? I have less than 10 miles on my 2023 DLX (that I bought assembled and tested, p/u local). Yesterday was going out pulled up kickstand and bike died. No power to anything with key on. Blew one of the 15amp fuses. Installed new fuse and fired up fine. I have not driven off road or in water. Now I’m nervous about blowing the fuse again. Will be inspecting all wires and dielectric greasing all plugs. But I’m wondering if there is a missing ground from the stator, or something. Would appreciate any updates or similar experiences. HMCM(SW)[Ret] __________________ DFW HMCM(SW)[Ret] 2020 FLHTK 2023 EX400G Ninja 400 2023 Hawk DLX
	0

11-19-2023, 10:37 AM	#30
BriNbigD Join Date: Oct 2023 Location: DFW Posts: 64	4809 Just asked because 4809 is a CT NEC. Obviously, I was a Corpsman. I was a Pharmacy Technician, then an IDC on tin cans, where my best friends were SMs (that have been converted to QMs). Retired as CMC of the 3 med clinics in New Orleans. My adult children are still down there. Fair winds brother! Thank you for your service! __________________ DFW HMCM(SW)[Ret] 2020 FLHTK 2023 EX400G Ninja 400 2023 Hawk DLX
	0

04-07-2023, 11:54 AM	#18
DanDLion Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Sonoran Desert, AZ Posts: 24	Sounds like your doing a great investigation! Keep it up you'll be back riding in no time! These troubleshooting sessions can be really frustrating when you just want to ride and its your only bike, but you got this your almost there. While your checking the wiring, verify all ground connections are good especially to the frame (tight with metal on metal contact).
	0

04-07-2023, 01:51 PM	#19
Sailor4809 Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana Posts: 26	So here's how things went. I used a blown light up fuse in the fuse holder while pulling every single connector, starting from the front of the bike and working aft, working in thirds (front, aft, central). I would attempt to put a new fuse in but would instantly get a spark when the fuse would touch the connection points of the fuse holder. Working in the central the only time it would not light up is disconnecting the hot wire connection to the solinoid. Even disconnecting the negative connectors running to the engine (grounding wire) it stayed lit and sparks with new fuse like mentioned above. Disconnected the two small wires going to the coil pack and still had an illuminated fuse. Is it fair to assume it is due to a bad solinoid or how would I go about testing it? Or is it from a bad grounding wire going to the engine. Hmmm. I love tinkering with stuff until electricity is involved
	0

04-07-2023, 01:57 PM	#20
clash 168cc Join Date: Jul 2022 Posts: 94	Follow both wires from that 1 fuse. You should find the short.
	1

04-08-2023, 08:36 AM	#24
buzz Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Dayton Pa. Posts: 877	Should be green or black for ground.
	0

04-08-2023, 10:33 AM	#25
Sailor4809 Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana Posts: 26	So bought a multimeter, another box of fuses and just got home from working third shift. Took the panels and seat off again and tested the voltage of the battery as a test of the multimeter, which works. Tested continuity of the solinoid and it was correct, tested the fuse box to see which was hotwire (red not the red white, stupid I know but no sleep in 2 days). Take a sip of my coffee and pulled connection boxes out and thought heck I'll go ahead and pop a fuse in JUST to be sure.... didn't blow the fuse. Stood up and just stared at the bike. Turned kill switch to kill, headlight kill switch engaged, turn key on- fuse no blow. Moment of truth it fired up. Took an extra turn because of not being ran an toggling power on an off all day yesterday. Let it idle for 5 minutes and blipped the throttle a few times and she still ran. Going to go ride around the block like it's brickyard 400 and pray it stays going. It's my only mode of transportation right now and same time northern Indiana is hitting 80s next week.
	2

11-16-2023, 02:07 PM	#27
Sailor4809 Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana Posts: 26	No master chief, it worked itself out. I had unplugged everything and kept blowing fuses. I tested the solinoid with a multimeter and it showed good numbers. Thought hell with it I'll use one more fuse and it's ran ever since. Lot of electrical issues I've had to learn on the side of the road. Recommend getting a tail bag and have a kit made up
	0

11-18-2023, 06:24 PM	#29
Sailor4809 Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana Posts: 26	Went to CID Pensacola for CTN, failed on last module twice and got sent undes. Struck out QM
	0