Templar M 250 questions

[Sodapop34]

Hello

I have ridden but its been over a decade since I have with any regularity. Looking into the Templar M and X as of now from powersportsmax. The X model would be perfect if it just had the kick starter. Which is why I'm leaning to the M. Unless there is a after market kick start kit for the X?

M - https://www.powersportsmax.com/produ...ducts_id/24209
X - https://www.powersportsmax.com/produ...ducts_id/23812


Templar M
- 249cc (counter balanced?) unsure
- kick start
- non adjustable forks preload rear only
- powder coated frame?
- range on a tank of gas? reserve amount?

How is the stock suspension as I weigh 210. Does the preload do much? I'm 6 foot 32 inch inseam will I be able to touch the ground with both feet?

Upgrades to suspension? Iv looked and found nothing.
Upgrades to gas tank? no idea what would fit.
Handle bars , bark busters, bar risers. I have looked but haven't seen info on these items.
Does the templar have replaceable oil filter? Have not read or seen anything on oil changes on this bike. I have looked at the Templar 250 resource guide. If I missed things I am sorry.

Any thing else I should know about the M model?

Any help at all would be appreciated. Thank you.

[XLsior]

M= 5 speed, non balanced has kick & E start.
X= 6speed , counter balanced. E start only.


At over 6ft Touching the ground should not be an issue. unless you have short legs.


If you're doing predominantly dirt riding then the M would be better suited.

If you're doing mostly on road commuting then get the X.

[Sodapop34]

Thanks for the info. Plan to really do 50/50 road and dirt. Am I making to big a deal out of the kick starter? Seems nice to have. What does the 6th gear get you over the 5 gear model?

[XLsior]

If you plan to do any riding on the road for more than 30min the counter balance and 6th gear is worth it...but it weighs more and no kick start. though rolling bump starts are easier to do on a road surface in a flat battery situation.


The 5 gear non balanced engine will be lighter so picking it up will be easier. Kick starting in a ditch with no rolling option will be a nice back up over a non e start option. in rough terrain low gear chugging a counterbalnced engine will likely go unnoticed.



With gearing the 6th gear will make top speed on public roads lower revving. the counterbalance will make the riding experience less fatigued...

[GypsyR]

I talked myself into not worrying about kickstart by thinking about how many cars and other vehicles we have that I can't start without using an electric starter. Riding mower for example.

[Williston]

I bought the X, no regrets

[Thumper]

I got the original X which had the 5 speed ZS 172FMM-3A. The 6 speed version rolled out after a few months and I bought one of those. I ended up selling the 6 speed. I really like the simplicity of the 5 speed engine.

I have never needed the kick start, and I don't even have it wired for a tender (I should, maybe this Winter!). It starts first try every time and runs great. I should try starting it with the kick start one of these days

That said, I found good jetting, airmix and needle shim settings, and I kept an eye on the valve clearances during breakin. I also changed the oil often during breakin, and was not too harsh on it until it had gone through at least a couple of dozen heat cycles. This might contribute to the easy starting and how smooth the engine runs.

I don't care about highway speed or vibration. I ride probably 50% on and off road, but on the road, I only run quick errands to nearby stores. I put a 51T rear sprocket on the rear to improve off road performance. I can get it over 60mph, but usually just run on country roads below 50mph.

If you want to drive mostly on the road, the counterbalanced 6 speed is probably better, and you might drop a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket. Install a battery tender lead so you don't have to worry about starting it!

[Sodapop34]

Thanks for all your inputs. Going with the M. Thumper I haven't found anything on oil changes on M. Does it take an oil filter that is replaceable? What is your recommended break in for this bike including oil type, rmps range to keep it in, any other info.

Also I hear everyone take every bolt and blue loctite it. Where does that end? engine mounts? The engine its self I assume not. front and rear forks? You get the point. What areas should I hit and what should I not touch?

Lastly at my weight of 210 what should I expect from stock suspension? What preload on the rear should I do before I bolt it up?

[Sodapop34]

Also if I'm getting through powersportsmax should I get the year warranty? Comes with 3 months free.

[Thumper]

Sodapop,

There is a screen/mesh oil filter accessible on the side of the lower crankcase. That is it. I've never even cleaned it out but I probably should. I do not use specific numbers for breakin rpm. I just run the bike moderately for, as I said, at least a couple dozen heat cycles. Oil? I used 15W-40 Rotella T4, which is a common choice around here. My clutch likes it, and no problems with the engine. Given your weight you may need to change to a heavier fork oil. Motul 15W medium/heavy fork oil works nicely. It will help prevent bottoming out if you have that problem.

You can spend your money on the extended warranty. I didn't. It is all up to you.

Getting the carb jet properly, and adjusting the valve clearance are important.

[Sodapop34]

Thumper

Thanks for the assist. Ordered the M.

[Sodapop34]

Thumper and anyone else. Best to move to the nibbs carb right off the bat or use the stock to break in? For the nibbs stick with 28mm or up it to 30mm?

[Williston]

Originally Posted by Sodapop34

Thumper and anyone else. Best to move to the nibbs carb right off the bat or use the stock to break in? For the nibbs stick with 28mm or up it to 30mm?

If you're able to deal with the tamper resistant bowl screws and capped air mix screw the stock carb can be rejetted, it's no better or no worse than a nibbi carb. Any carb, including the nibbi, will need to be tuned with proper jetting.

[Sodapop34]

Follow up. Bike is here and I haven't really touched it other then a cursory glance to make sure nothing was to obvious an issue. No birth mark has been found yet.

Plan
- SAE 30 with ZDDP break in oil for the first 500 to 750 miles. Plan to do an oil change every 250 miles.
- using dielectric grease on all electrical connections as well has heat shrink tubing
- will oil chain and air box. Should I grease chain rather then oil?
- Add grease to axel bolts if needed.
- will blue Loctite everything. Using 242 blue
- Will mess with front forks after riding it to see what's needed.

Questions.
I'm at 600 feet elevation and its 20-40 degrees. I want to upgrade the carb to the "NIBBI PE30mm". Anyone running this size near this elevation can let me know what jet and needle changes are needed?

- Rear suspension preload adjustment for 220 rider without gear so 240 with gear?
- What size C spanner is needed to adjust the preload?

[sburk]

I do not have a nibbi but I am at 699 elevation. 115 main jet and 2 washers on the needle. Runs great in gear. in neutral a fast snap at the throttle and it will bog.