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#1786 |
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 418
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I bought one of those JFG full exhausts which didn't work out at all, probably made for a Hawk. Anyway I used the muffler from that AND bought a steel baffle insert. It went the other way. I swear it got louder. I put the stock muffler back on. At some point I will do a more proper job of the adapter I made for the muffler to fit by actually welding it and put the JFG muffler back on. I just kind of like the looks I guess.
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2023 Templar 250 X |
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#1788 | |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Florida
Posts: 307
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Yes, it will bolt right in. You can also just buy the head and cylinder for a couple hundred dollars less. |
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#1789 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,970
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The 4 valve airhead is tempting. But NC300 (297cc, liquid cooled) would control the heat better on slow trails and hot Summer days. We do have a place to mount the radiators on the Temp X.
There is also the ZS174MN-3, which is not a 300cc engine like they call it. It is a 280cc balanced shaft 5 speed. AJ1 and AliExpress both sell them. But it does have the liquid jacket. Pretty good deal from AJ1 motors. They claim 25hp. https://aj1moto.com/products/zongshen-cbs300-engine
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No matter where you go, there you are... "It's the environment, stupid" ("No planet, no jobs" ) Last edited by Thumper; 07-23-2024 at 10:04 AM. |
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#1790 | |
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 3
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#1791 |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 47
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I've read through this entire thread twice, taking notes for when I order a Templar X in a few weeks.
Figured I'd ask the brain trust here if anyone has insured a Templar with State Farm for street use. I went through an ordeal with them insuring a street legal golf cart about 10 years ago because it wasn't one of the "recognized" brands. I figured if someone here has insured a Templar with SF, it will be in their system and getting one insured should be relatively painless.
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1792 | |
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 208
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---------- 2023 Templar X 2009 Triumph Bonneville 1976 Yamaha DT175 1974 Honda MT125 |
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#1793 | |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,970
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No matter where you go, there you are... "It's the environment, stupid" ("No planet, no jobs" ) Last edited by Thumper; 11-12-2024 at 05:40 PM. |
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#1794 | ||
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 47
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Luckily, I've had the same State Farm agent for over 35 years and have everything insured with them (house, trucks, boat, RV, and IRA's). Will probably end up making a trip over to their office after getting the bike and paperwork, and walk them through it like I did with that golf cart. I've shopped insurance many times over the years, but State Farm's multi-line discounts are hard to beat, and I hate having to deal with multiple insurance companies. When I have a question, I only want to have to call one person and not have to remember who's insuring what. The golf cart I had insured with them had full coverage up to the same limits as my auto policy (500,000 liability) for just under $100 a year.
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1795 |
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Central FL
Posts: 24
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Hi.
I've started to notice my rear wheel "lock" up while riding sometimes. I thought it was the shitty stock chain but even with a brand new high quality chain it's doing it. It doesn't completely lock up and I don't know how to really explain it. It feels like what is assume a small rock getting between the chain and sprocket would feel like, or a hard spot on the chain. A second of two of hard resistance before it clears up. It clears up after a second or so but last ride it happened multiple times and I really want to figure out what is wrong before it gets any worse. |
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#1796 | |
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 66
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Check your wheel bearings perhaps? Mine didn't come with a lot of grease on them from the factory. |
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#1797 | |
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Central FL
Posts: 24
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I will check them again today. When I first got the bike I took apart both front and rear and caked them in marine grease. At 1000 miles I did it again, but there was plenty of grease left and it wasn't too dirty so I figured I could go longer between checking them. I'm at 2500 miles now. Maybe my rear axle is too tight, or maybe I had a bad bearing from the factory? It's done this since I got it out of the crate. I thought it was something that might just need to be "broken in" but obviously not. |
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#1798 | |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 135
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On another bike I had the return spring broke on the foot lever and gave similar symptoms. |
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#1799 |
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 208
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Brake pedal placement could be a factor too. I found that I was dragging the rear brake a lot when standing after I switched to riding in MX boots instead of work boots.
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---------- 2023 Templar X 2009 Triumph Bonneville 1976 Yamaha DT175 1974 Honda MT125 |
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#1800 |
Join Date: Oct 2023
Location: Western PA
Posts: 342
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I have read of reports where the linkage between the rear brake pedal and rear master cylinder needs to have a certain amount of "slop" or else when the brake fluid expands from heat, the brakes lock up. Might be worth checking...
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2022 Hawk DLX EFI * 16T Front / 45T Rear / 428 x-ring chain * Kenda K-760 front / 4.10x18 Dunlop D605 * Banjo brake light switch * LED headlight + front turn signals * Custom cutting board skid plate * Debadged (I don't like to brag about the superior strength!) |
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