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Old 06-28-2008, 08:31 AM   #1
alonzo   alonzo is offline
 
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adjusted valves,,,, no tick?!?!?!?

adjusted the valves for the second time. last time I still had a small tick in the valves. this time all I hear is the exhaust and the whirring noise that I have had ever since bike was new :(

I thought these bikes where supposed to tick 8O I am so lost without the tick.

In all honesty, did I over tighten, I dont think I did, I triple checked the clearance on the valves before and after I tightened the locknuts.

or did I get it right?


 
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:16 AM   #2
red2003   red2003 is offline
 
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Have you fully warmed the bike up yet? You will probably get a small tick once it is warmed up. If you don't have any valve tick at all, I think you got them too tight. These engines need SOME clearance or it will eventually burn the valves.
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:39 AM   #3
alonzo   alonzo is offline
 
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before I put the bike back togather I checked with the feeler gauges, both slid in and drug accross the surfaces with very little if any bind. and I could make the valves tick by pulling them up and pushing back down.

I cant get the bike out and really good and warmed up because the weather here in kansas is raining off and on. I will have to wait and see how she sounds after the weather passes.
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Old 06-28-2008, 05:38 PM   #4
red2003   red2003 is offline
 
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If the feelers slide in and out easy, you are good to go. You'll have a little tick once it's warmed up, I am sure. You're fine.
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Old 06-28-2008, 05:41 PM   #5
alonzo   alonzo is offline
 
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I put about 50 km on it it ticks again 8)


 
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Old 06-28-2008, 08:32 PM   #6
hotform   hotform is offline
 
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Read

Read my post about valve adjustments over on the valve page. Maybe it will be helpful.


 
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Old 06-29-2008, 12:29 AM   #7
hunter   hunter is offline
 
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valves

I set mine to .05 and .08 and got horrible tick and smelled burning and shut er down right away.I am going with .05 for both tomorrow as the manual says.I hope this works


 
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Old 06-29-2008, 12:40 AM   #8
hunter   hunter is offline
 
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what clearance did you use?

did you use the .05 and .08?


 
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Old 06-29-2008, 07:10 AM   #9
alonzo   alonzo is offline
 
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couldn't find .05mm .08mm I think my feelers are .051mm .076mm make sure you are reading the mm not standard on the thing. these gauges are supposed to be paper thin.


 
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Old 06-29-2008, 07:21 AM   #10
red2003   red2003 is offline
 
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Re: valves

Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter
I set mine to .05 and .08 and got horrible tick and smelled burning and shut er down right away.I am going with .05 for both tomorrow as the manual says.I hope this works
.05 is too tight for the exhaust valve IMO. The burning smell was just a little oil that spilled during the valve job I am sure. If you get them set right (not an easy task if you are not used to lashing valves) they are correct at .05mm, .08mm.
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Old 06-29-2008, 07:46 AM   #11
hotform   hotform is offline
 
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Did You

Are you guys using the metric reading on your gauges of .05 and .08 or are you using the American system of inches at .005 and .008? If you are using the latter, then you are setting them way too loose. My big V twin cruiser is set for .003 and .007 American.
The correct American inches in thousandths settings would be more like .0015 for intake and .0025 for exhaust, which is where I set mine with no tick. Or for those not looking at all the zeros, one and a half thousandths for the intake and two and a half thousandths for the exhaust. Not much in other words.
Are you at the correct top dead center when setting the valves? It is a 4 stroke motor, so the piston is at top dead center twice during the four strokes. At the TDC of one stroke the exhaust valve has just finished its business and the intake valve is ready to start its business and both valves are fully loaded and this it not the place to set your valves. At TDC of the compression stroke both valves are slightly relaxed. After you pull off the inspection cap on top where you line up your timing mark, is there a cover down around the side with 4 bolts in it that you can take off? If so, put a drain pan under it and take it off, you won't loose too much oil. There should be a bolt inside that you can put a socket on to turn the engine over. Take the spark plug out so it will turn easier and so you don't have to worry about undue pressure creating resistance and somehow loosening something up. Turn it counterclockwise to line up the timing mark. This is in the Lifan owners manual.
When you reach the timing mark, grab the rocker arm at the adjustment nut of the exhaust valve and see if you can wiggle it up and down slightly. If you cannot, then you are at the wrong place in the 4 stroke cycle. Go around 360 degrees and do it again. Do they wiggle now? Compare the two times you did it, which one wiggled. It must wiggle or you do not have the valves relaxed. If you have set them incorrectly at the wrong mark, and I suspect you have, then they will wiggle a bunch when you are in the right spot.
If you are working with the American inches system then set them to .0015 intake and .0025 or .002 exhaust. My needed settings were printed on a label under the left side of the seat.
Need a tool for moving the little square adjuster on top? You can make a quick one out of a number two square drive wood screw and a small yellow wire nut. Just cut the screw back a bit and screw it up into the wire nut. Or a strip of old credit card works great with little square cut out of it.
Now if you are in the right spot at TDC, loosen the nut on top of the adjuster with a 10mm wrench. Insert the correct feeler gauge. Screw the adjuster down with the wire nut tool you just made. Check to make sure your feeler gauge will still move, but just barely with a lot of drag. Now while holding onto the wire nut tool so the adjuster doesn't tighten as you tighten down the nut.
The following is a nice tutorial on adjusting valves. It was made for larger V-Twin Suzuki's, but the principles are the same. This is where I learned to do it working on my street bike. When I did my Lifan valves Friday, it only took me a scant 15 minutes to do so, as I was now an expert from doing my Suzuki a while back.

http://www.therusks.com/index.php?mo...JAS_File_id=50

Here are the links to three pictures showing the tool made out of a wire nut.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...justment-1.jpg

And this one.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...justment-2.jpg

One more

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...justment-3.jpg

One more thing, be patient. The first time I ever did valves I thought I was going to kill someone or something I got so frustrated. It wasn't until I had a cold beer, sat down and thought about 4 strokes and realized the relaxed position I needed to have the valves in, that I got it right. I think a lot of people get frustrated the first time they do it, and a lot of them end up with valves that tick and have to do over again.


 
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Old 06-29-2008, 12:48 PM   #12
hunter   hunter is offline
 
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used the wrong guage

i used the .5 guage and the .8 there is my problem thanks


 
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Old 06-29-2008, 01:01 PM   #13
IronFist   IronFist is offline
 
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I heard that it's better to have the valves a little loose, than a little too tight.

And that, " a little ticking won't harm your bike."

And that, valves too tight can burn an engine out in a very few miles.

I'm not saying any of it is true, just what was in my mind yesterday when I did my valves.
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Old 06-29-2008, 07:51 PM   #14
red2003   red2003 is offline
 
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Re: used the wrong guage

Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter
i used the .5 guage and the .8 there is my problem thanks
Cool, now you know the problem. Next time around it'll go smoother. No harm, no foul. It's all about learning, right! Get r done!
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