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#1 |
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wooster, OH
Posts: 33
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LF200gy-5 back brake calliper seizing
Anyone have any ideas what would be making my lf200gy-5's rear brake calliper freeze or lock up?
It's been happening every once in a while, especially after it has been sitting outside for 8 hours in the sun and then locks up on my way home. Then it just releases after I let it sit and then struggle to get it in the garage. Thanks for any input. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Charleston,SC
Posts: 49
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-Jaime The Citadel LF200GY-5 |
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#3 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tejas
Posts: 834
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I'm glad mine is drum brake. Don't have to worry about that.
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Chinabikeless |
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#4 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North East England
Posts: 313
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I had to cut a few threads off the rod to get the adjustment correct.
Jonathan. |
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#5 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: N.E. Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 679
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Removing mystery shipping fluid in brake is good start.
I bled ,rode,bled,rode...untill brakes faded... (It seemed 15 min of riding was all it took to heat the crappy fluid to the point of siezure.) I then drained remaining fluid and refilled with dot3/4 fluid. Brakes never needed adjusted during or since....fluid replacement did the trick.
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'91 Yamaha Warrior- stage 2 '83 Honda ATC 70 '08 Yongjiang 125cc mx (Loncin) '08 Yongjiang 150cc atv (Jinlong) |
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#6 | |
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wooster, OH
Posts: 33
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Quote:
Any input is good...I haven't worked with brake lines much. |
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#7 |
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 392
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If your getting fluid spillage when you bleed then good, if not keep bleeding till it spills, my bike has a bolt just above the brake lever close to my foot peg, when I loosen it it it pushes the brake lever down some, you can loosen it until your pistons are out far enough for your brake to work.not sure this helps? good luck!
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#8 |
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wooster, OH
Posts: 33
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I've pumped the brake a thousand times with the nozzle off the bleed valve and no luck.
I've disconnected the bolt to the brake caliper and the hose squirts out break fluid when I push the break. I've taken off the brake caliper and the caliper clamps when I push the brake, but it still won't bleed even after the brake completely closes and with the bleed valve open. It obviously doesn't clamp hard enough because it is not enough to even come close to stopping the bike. There doesn't appear to be any leaks. Any more help? If the caliper is bad does anyone know where to get a rear brake caliper? |
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#9 |
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Terrell and Grapevine Tx.
Posts: 1,585
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Sounds like you may not be bleeding properly.
Push down the pedal and hold it down. Then open the bleeder for just a moment and close while the pedal is down. Then pump the pedal several times and then push the pedal down and hold it. Again open the bleeder briefly and again close while the pedal is down. Repeat till the pedal firms up, making sure you have plenty of fluid in the master cylynder. I think your bringing air back into the system when you let the pedal go up while the bleeder is open Good luck! |
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#10 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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Yes. You need to close the valve before you release the pedal. You will never get it bled otherwise.
Allen
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You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone. |
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#11 | |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: N.E. Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 679
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Quote:
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'91 Yamaha Warrior- stage 2 '83 Honda ATC 70 '08 Yongjiang 125cc mx (Loncin) '08 Yongjiang 150cc atv (Jinlong) |
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#12 |
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wooster, OH
Posts: 33
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Does anyone know where I can get a replacement caliper for the '01 lf200gy-5?
I can't get it to bleed no matter what. I wonder what can cause this? Remember it seized up in the first place, and now that I changed the brake fluid I can't get it to bleed. |
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#13 |
I had to gravity bleed mine, open the valve all the way, or even take it out. Hold down the pedal(forever) and just keep putting fluid in untill the bubbles stop coming out and you get a steady stream of fluid, then replace the valve and tighten it until it's closed. It takes forever, but it works, this is the only way I could get the piston inside my caliper to even move.
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I have all of soberday to satur up!! |
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#14 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Vermont, USA
Posts: 1,271
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OK, here's the problem. If you completely emptied the master cylinder, it has an air pocket in it and just pumping the pedal will never get it out. Here's what you need to do. Take the brake hose off the caliper and submerge it in a can of brake fluid. Now pump the crap out of the pedal. With the hose submerged in fluid it will eventually reverse bleed back into the master cylinder. Don't go buy a new caliper, that's not the problem. AND, you need to fix the adjustment bolt like was suggested earlier. Changing out the fluid will NOT fix the seizure problem.
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First Chinabike: 2006 Roketa RSX200E Current Chinabikes: 2023 Titan DLX & 2022 Lifan KP Mini w/ 210cc BRT kit, 22 RWHP! |
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#15 |
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 392
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I would remove the whole system, before you detach the caliper use the brake lever to pump the pistons out as far as they go......then I would spray it all and wipe it into new condition with brake cleaner, then you put it all back on and bleed the new fluid in, make sure you bleed proper, push lever down open valve for about 2 seconds while lever is still depressed then tighten valve up good and release brake lever, you might have to open the bleeder valve quite a bit but never release the brake lever any until the valve is closed or you will get air in the system, make sure you push the pistons back into the caliper before returning it to the bike.....should work unless you have something clogging behind the pistons in which case you have to fully remove them to clean or there is something blocking your hose.....if you cant find anything wrong after doing proper maintenance a new caliper is bound to act up as well.if needed these guys might have what you need....www.china-parts.co.uk
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