09-21-2008, 10:22 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Posts: 4,880
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Chain / Swing Arm rubber slider?
I'm talking about this piece here:
I'm wondering if there is a better way to set this up, my sprocket and chain are always packed with rubber from chewing through this thing... I'm thinking I need to replace it with some rollers or something, any thoughts or suggestions?
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09-21-2008, 10:31 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 125
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Yeah, mine has the same thing. I'm also interested if somebody can suggest something better.
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09-21-2008, 10:39 PM | #3 |
I was told to buy a cutting board from like the Dollar store, cut it to width and counter sink some holes in it for the screws. I haven't tried it yet. I have been looking at some of the roller type tension things on some of the pit bikes to try to adapt. Hopefully somebody out there has "been there done that".
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09-21-2008, 10:42 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
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I'm going to have to go there pretty soon I think because mine looks like it has almost sawed all the way through now, this picture is from quite a while back...
I was thinking the same thing, just have to watch for the top of the chain case cover on the motor if I use a springed roller like on my atv... Hopefully someone else has already got a good solution to this...
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09-22-2008, 05:26 AM | #5 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wheeling, West Virginia
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I have heard of the plastic cutting board retrofit too.
From what I understand of the stock rubber set-up, the chain cuts in, to the point of contacting the chain rollers. Then the wear becomes more acceptable. Jim, is your wear to the point of roller contact? If so, does the wear seem to be the same rate? Just curious, Tigertamer
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09-22-2008, 05:51 AM | #6 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
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I think the cutting board is just nylon and that is what you see on a lot of bikes/quads and other vehicles.
It should be easy enough to make one out of nylon and it would wear far better than the rubber. |
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09-22-2008, 06:32 AM | #7 | |
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Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
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Quote:
Thanks also TC, I'll keep that in mind
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09-22-2008, 07:21 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: idaho falls idaho
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what if you used a hifax from a snowmobile track. they are relatively cheap and almost cut to fit. they even have counter-sunk holes in them!
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09-22-2008, 10:10 AM | #9 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 629
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I used an old Subaru timing belt. Check this thread:
http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ht=timing+belt 3000km since, still going strong.
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09-22-2008, 02:52 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
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chinariderinthesky, I'll check that out thanks...
elroyjetson, thanks for the link, interesting, I'll look into that too.
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09-22-2008, 05:44 PM | #11 | |
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Location: Duluth, MN
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Quote:
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09-22-2008, 06:44 PM | #12 |
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Counter sinking holes in nylon is extremely EXTREMELY easy.
All you need is a wood drill bit (SPADE DRILL BIT) that is slightly wider than the bolt you want to use. Mark the nylon and drill your counter sink hole to the depth you want and then change to a regular drill bit and drill the hole to the diameter you need for the bolt to fit thru. The little point on the spade bits leave you a very nice pilot hole to guide the final drill bit. I prefer the spade bits that are square at the ends but some have little points to help drill but are not what you'd want for counter sinking. |
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09-23-2008, 07:06 AM | #13 | |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wheeling, West Virginia
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Quote:
I am fortunate enough to have a set of countersink/drill bits I use for carpentry work :wink: Jim, if you use the cutting board, I would suggest to use the old pad as a template, to mark the precise hole locations for drilling. Good luck, Tigertamer
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09-23-2008, 08:32 AM | #14 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
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Wrap tape around the bit at the depth you want to go. Probably about a 1/4".
Allen
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09-23-2008, 01:15 PM | #15 | ||
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Quote:
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