New Gio Assembly - Light Problem - Page 2

TurboT · 08-16-2009, 03:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Since you can start the quad without pulling a brake lever, and since the brake light is on all the time, I believe the problem to be one of the switches.

If you can dismantle the assembly somewhat, try spraying some contact cleaner in one switch assembly at a time, and see which one responds. It is likely that only one of the switches is at fault.

So the switch you're meaning is inside the lever somewhere, and not a problem with where it plugs into the harness somewhere under the body kit?

I'd guess it's the front one, don't know why but it'll be where I start.

Weldangrind · 08-16-2009, 12:09 PM

That's the way our quad brake levers work. If you can't service the switch, the lever assembly will require replacement.

TurboT · 08-16-2009, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

That's the way our quad brake levers work. If you can't service the switch, the lever assembly will require replacement.

Grrrrrrrrreat. Better get on this in case I need to get Gio to add them to the parts order...... Had a wedding to attend today so couldn't get to the quad yet.

cameron88 · 08-17-2009, 12:48 PM

Not sure if it is setup like my beast, but I had a simalar issue.

A small spring is on the rear break lever that pulls the switch to activate the rear light, it may just be to tight causing the brake light to stay on and the switch to start it is part of the break light switch.

Like I said not sure if this will help but see if there is a spring on the rear break and remove it, if the break light goes out, then you need to loosen the spring.

Cam

TurboT · 08-17-2009, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cameron88

Not sure if it is setup like my beast, but I had a simalar issue.

A small spring is on the rear break lever that pulls the switch to activate the rear light, it may just be to tight causing the brake light to stay on and the switch to start it is part of the break light switch.

Like I said not sure if this will help but see if there is a spring on the rear break and remove it, if the break light goes out, then you need to loosen the spring.

Cam

Hey thanks for the tip. Is the spring inside the lever or on the outside somewhere?

TurboT · 08-17-2009, 11:53 PM

Okay spent some time on this brake light tonight.

I determined it was the front brake lever causing issues. The wires I had thought were 'kill switch' wires under the back brake lever were in fact the brake light wires. Disconnecting these on my other mini beast here, the brake light did not work which is how I determined this. While disconnecting these wires on the offending machine, the brake light stayed on... hence, must be the other side.

I disassembled the front brake lever. The switch inside is a plastic plunger, as it's pushed in, it is supposed to activate the light. Upon playing, noticed it is in reverse. If I depress the plunger in, the light goes out, so when not pushing the brake lever in it stays on all the time.

My deduction was the wires were crossed? So, I traced the wire into the correct plug on the harness, and switched them. Guess what? No difference. No matter what way the wires go into the plug the switch is working in reverse.. I'm confused. Any thoughts?!?!

Weldangrind · 08-18-2009, 01:19 AM

Check the polarity at the brake light. IOW, make sure that the negative wire at the bulb actually goes to ground and the positive wire connects to the center electrode on the bulb socket.

That normally wouldn't have been a guess of mine, but it seems to me that another member had this issue.

TurboT · 08-18-2009, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Check the polarity at the brake light. IOW, make sure that the negative wire at the bulb actually goes to ground and the positive wire connects to the center electrode on the bulb socket.

That noramlly wouldn't have been a guess of mine, but it seems to me that another member had this issue.

Ok well I'm confused..

If the polarity was off at the light, wouldn't that make both sides cause the problem?? With the front brake switch disconnected, the light works as it should with the rear lever... ???
:?

Weldangrind · 08-18-2009, 01:29 AM

Right. I forgot about the other lever switch functioning properly. Are you certain about how the switch is supposed to work? Have you dismantled the other lever to see if it activates the light as it's pushed in? BTW, perform tests on the rear lever with the front lever disconnected, so as not to skew results.

crhunter · 08-18-2009, 01:38 AM

Hey TurboT just back from holidays. Hi all! Just a crazy thought about the rear brake light. Did you try switching the wiring harness for the kill switch at the the back? My kill switch is currently unplugged and I can still start it. On my mini beast the wiring colour is confusing between those two wiring harnesses that are side by side.

LynnEdwards · 08-18-2009, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboT

The switch inside is a plastic plunger, as it's pushed in, it is supposed to activate the light. Upon playing, noticed it is in reverse. If I depress the plunger in, the light goes out, so when not pushing the brake lever in it stays on all the time..... ...Any thoughts?!?!

I have a foot operated rear brake switch which failed shortly after I bought my quad. I replaced it with a used honda brake switch off ebay for a few dollars. It was mechanically quite different so I had to modify the spring length to position the plunger correctly.

But when I first installed it I noticed exactly the same you are noticing. If the plunger is positioned way wrong the switch worked backwards - i.e. the brake light would be on until I pressed the pedal and it would go off. By stretching the spring I was able to get the switch to work right.

So my new used switch, when fully out would be open (light off), then the switch would close (light on) when pushed in a little, but if pushed too far would open up again (light off). It was possible to adjust it where it would toggle between the "in" and "too far" positions which makes it work backwards.

Not sure it this applies to your switch, but it is worth a try.

TurboT · 08-18-2009, 01:46 AM

The thought occurred to me that perhaps it worked the opposite way as well.. but while looking at it and thinking about it, how could it? The action of the lever to squeeze in, should push the inside of the lever up against this plunger, not pull it away from it..

..and yes, while these wires are disconnected, the back brake activates the light.

I'm thinking I might just yank the wires, tape them together and stuff them up inside. The light will be out, I don't want the front brakes being used anyways, and the back brake activates the light... although the perfectionist in me doesn't like doing that..

Weldangrind · 08-18-2009, 01:58 AM

Man, I'd lose sleep over that!

If you do move forward with your "modification", the starter safety circuit will be restored. That's a good thing.

When you say "The action of the lever to squeeze in, should push the inside of the lever up against this plunger, not pull it away from it", that would depend upon where the switch is positioned in the lever. If it is in front of the fulcrum, the switch would need to pop out. If it was behind the fulcrum, it would need to be pushed in. Make sense?

TurboT · 08-18-2009, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Man, I'd lose sleep over that!

If you do move forward with your "modification", the starter safety circuit will be restored. That's a good thing.

When you say "The action of the lever to squeeze in, should push the inside of the lever up against this plunger, not pull it away from it", that would depend upon where the switch is positioned in the lever. If it is in front of the fulcrum, the switch would need to pop out. If it was behind the fulcrum, it would need to be pushed in. Make sense?

Haha my man I hear you it bothers me to no end it's like this. If the lever wasn't part of the throttle controls I'd yank it all off.

What you say makes sense, but having this apart I don't see it... unless there is something missing I'm not seeing. I might have to pull my daughter's 50cc mini beast lever apart to see how it is inside there.

TurboT · 08-18-2009, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboT

The switch inside is a plastic plunger, as it's pushed in, it is supposed to activate the light. Upon playing, noticed it is in reverse. If I depress the plunger in, the light goes out, so when not pushing the brake lever in it stays on all the time..... ...Any thoughts?!?!

I have a foot operated rear brake switch which failed shortly after I bought my quad. I replaced it with a used honda brake switch off ebay for a few dollars. It was mechanically quite different so I had to modify the spring length to position the plunger correctly.

But when I first installed it I noticed exactly the same you are noticing. If the plunger is positioned way wrong the switch worked backwards - i.e. the brake light would be on until I pressed the pedal and it would go off. By stretching the spring I was able to get the switch to work right.

So my new used switch, when fully out would be open (light off), then the switch would close (light on) when pushed in a little, but if pushed too far would open up again (light off). It was possible to adjust it where it would toggle between the "in" and "too far" positions which makes it work backwards.

Not sure it this applies to your switch, but it is worth a try.

With the lever apart, I pretty much had to push the plunger all the way down to get the light to go out. There wasn't a 'middle ground' as you say with this one. Needed some pretty good pressure to get it to go off.

08-16-2009, 12:09 PM	#17
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	That's the way our quad brake levers work. If you can't service the switch, the lever assembly will require replacement. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-18-2009, 01:19 AM	#22
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Check the polarity at the brake light. IOW, make sure that the negative wire at the bulb actually goes to ground and the positive wire connects to the center electrode on the bulb socket. That normally wouldn't have been a guess of mine, but it seems to me that another member had this issue. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-18-2009, 01:29 AM	#24
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Right. I forgot about the other lever switch functioning properly. Are you certain about how the switch is supposed to work? Have you dismantled the other lever to see if it activates the light as it's pushed in? BTW, perform tests on the rear lever with the front lever disconnected, so as not to skew results. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-18-2009, 01:38 AM	#25
crhunter Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 48	Hey TurboT just back from holidays. Hi all! Just a crazy thought about the rear brake light. Did you try switching the wiring harness for the kill switch at the the back? My kill switch is currently unplugged and I can still start it. On my mini beast the wiring colour is confusing between those two wiring harnesses that are side by side. __________________ ____________________________________ "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?"
	0

08-18-2009, 01:58 AM	#28
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Man, I'd lose sleep over that! If you do move forward with your "modification", the starter safety circuit will be restored. That's a good thing. When you say "The action of the lever to squeeze in, should push the inside of the lever up against this plunger, not pull it away from it", that would depend upon where the switch is positioned in the lever. If it is in front of the fulcrum, the switch would need to pop out. If it was behind the fulcrum, it would need to be pushed in. Make sense? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-17-2009, 12:48 PM	#19
cameron88 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 34	Not sure if it is setup like my beast, but I had a simalar issue. A small spring is on the rear break lever that pulls the switch to activate the rear light, it may just be to tight causing the brake light to stay on and the switch to start it is part of the break light switch. Like I said not sure if this will help but see if there is a spring on the rear break and remove it, if the break light goes out, then you need to loosen the spring. Cam
	0

08-17-2009, 11:53 PM	#21
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	Okay spent some time on this brake light tonight. I determined it was the front brake lever causing issues. The wires I had thought were 'kill switch' wires under the back brake lever were in fact the brake light wires. Disconnecting these on my other mini beast here, the brake light did not work which is how I determined this. While disconnecting these wires on the offending machine, the brake light stayed on... hence, must be the other side. I disassembled the front brake lever. The switch inside is a plastic plunger, as it's pushed in, it is supposed to activate the light. Upon playing, noticed it is in reverse. If I depress the plunger in, the light goes out, so when not pushing the brake lever in it stays on all the time. My deduction was the wires were crossed? So, I traced the wire into the correct plug on the harness, and switched them. Guess what? No difference. No matter what way the wires go into the plug the switch is working in reverse.. I'm confused. Any thoughts?!?!
	0

08-18-2009, 01:46 AM	#27
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	The thought occurred to me that perhaps it worked the opposite way as well.. but while looking at it and thinking about it, how could it? The action of the lever to squeeze in, should push the inside of the lever up against this plunger, not pull it away from it.. ..and yes, while these wires are disconnected, the back brake activates the light. I'm thinking I might just yank the wires, tape them together and stuff them up inside. The light will be out, I don't want the front brakes being used anyways, and the back brake activates the light... although the perfectionist in me doesn't like doing that..
	0