2X New Mini Beasts Arrived...Any Tips..??? - Page 2

waynev · 11-28-2009, 01:57 PM

Not too sure about that W&G, but if you have a look at the picture of one in the link below i can see oil preventing the shoes from getting a good bite into the steel outer ring, it looks like any other dry centrifugal clutch i have seen.

http://www.giobikes.com/Engine-Parts...ch-50cc-110cc/

Reveeen · 11-28-2009, 04:04 PM

They hold less than a liter. (noticed I used a Canadian term)

A liter is near enough 1 American quart, if you guys go metric it won't be as painful for you as it was for us.

1 US quart = .9463 liters
1 US quart = 5/6 of an Imperial quart

Our gallons used to be 1/6 bigger than yours (16%).

PCD · 11-28-2009, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynev

Not too sure about that W&G, but if you have a look at the picture of one in the link below i can see oil preventing the shoes from getting a good bite into the steel outer ring, it looks like any other dry centrifugal clutch i have seen.

http://www.giobikes.com/Engine-Parts...ch-50cc-110cc/

I just made an assumption they were dry and I think I mentioned to someone here it was OK to run nice synthetic in them, but not in our beasts due to them being a wet clutch, or at least a synthetic without friction modifiers.
I think another member recently posted about an oil change and mentioned the beast oil looked like crap, where the mini oil looked like it came out of the bottle.
On the other hand, I'm wrong about 50 times per day so I wouldnt be surprised if MY oddball 110 was wet

Weldangrind · 11-29-2009, 05:56 PM

I'm still inclined to believe that the centrifugal clutch is wet, and as such it would require motorcycle oil (I'd stay away from Rotella).

Pete, I've been using wet clutch specific synthetic oil for a few years now with no problems.

PCD · 11-29-2009, 06:09 PM

That's interesting W&G, it comes from a dealership I would guess? I change oil so often that it makes no sense to use synthetic anyway, but that's not a problem, synthetic has a lot of properties I really like so I use it when I can anyway.
I just have trouble getting my head around something expressly designed to reduce friction (better than plain dino oil) working well on a part (clutch) that needs friction to perform properly.

MICRider · 11-29-2009, 06:31 PM

I run synthetic in my Shadow, but it is that Castrol stuff formulated for motorcycles. Seems to work pretty good but was big $$$!

Edit: Oops, I was wrong. It's not Castrol, its Amsoil synthetic http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/MCF.aspx
I was right about the price though... $$$!

Weldangrind · 11-30-2009, 02:04 AM

I was using a Motul semi-synthetic oil that was $40 for a 4l jug, but I haven't found it at that price lately; more like $50.

Pete, synthetic is designed to resist thermal breakdown and is supposed to adhere to bearing surfaces better than conventional oil, but synthetic motorcycle oil is definitely designed for wet clutches. I wouldn't say that it's designed to reduce friction in that application.

Car oils however (conventional or otherwise), have friction modifiers that will apparently make wet clutches slip eventually.

jeffjr464 · 12-02-2009, 01:44 PM

amsoil is the best stuff on the market period, i use it in my car, 10 bucks a quart but you cant beat that stuff

sickofit · 12-02-2009, 02:40 PM

Thanks guys....I will use motorcycle oil,just in case its a wet clutch...

Goin out tonight to get em all assembled,i'll be sure to take some pics for you guys..!!!

Greg

TurboT · 12-02-2009, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sickofit

Thanks guys....I will use motorcycle oil,just in case its a wet clutch...

Goin out tonight to get em all assembled,i'll be sure to take some pics for you guys..!!!

Greg

2 mini beasts to assemble x 1 night? = No sleep.

I think they're might be two of you working on them though if I remember. Have fun with them! I'm interested to hear the stories.

BO20 · 12-02-2009, 05:00 PM

sorry for the semi hijack....

what plug upgrades are suggested? I have read that it is suggested but could never seem to find the part #.--- never mind found it earlier in this thread... :roll:

I am going to assemble my mini this week also-

I bought the amsoil syn oil and lock tight yesterday but didn't know which plug to get...

thx in advance

TurboT · 12-02-2009, 05:45 PM

We almost need to make a 'parts number list' for these quads and get a mod to sticky it at the top of the ATV section for easier reference. I find it hard sometimes to search through all these posts looking for the one in the middle of 17 pages with the part number you need.

I know one of the other members tried that with the big beast.

waynev · 12-02-2009, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BO20

sorry for the semi hijack....

what plug upgrades are suggested? I have read that it is suggested but could never seem to find the part #.--- never mind found it earlier in this thread... :roll:

I am going to assemble my mini this week also-

I bought the amsoil syn oil and lock tight yesterday but didn't know which plug to get...

thx in advance

I use the NGK CR7HSA in my 110cc and 50cc GIO quads, this should also be the plug your looking for Canadian Tire part # is 018-3670-6, i believe they were $6.99 a 2 pack.

sickofit · 12-03-2009, 12:23 PM

Well,we got ONE together....LOL....took about 3 hours...not bad,seeing as we also installed the perf exhaust,the mikuni carb,and the perf CDI...

We had no problem gettin the perf exhaust on,like many others,but what was a prob,was the Mikuni carb....first off,the stocker choke is different,it is spring loaded and the Mikuni is not,and there is no spots on the Mikuni to bolt on the spring plate from the stocker....so we couldn't use the choke located on the handlebars,as with no spring,the cable can't push it closed....so have to manually choke it...anyone find a way around this..??

Also,we had to remove the brass drain on the bottom of the Mikuni to get it to fit,as with it in,it would hit against the intake pipe,and not bolt on(maybe need carb spinner..??)

Had to play around with needle valve as well,as the throttle cable was too short with the Mikuni,and only allow about half throttle....ended up using the stock carb cap,and all was well...

We also had the usual missing few bolts as well,but found what we needed in our collection of misc bolts,nuts...

All in all,it went pretty well...I took some pics,but of course I forgot my camera at my bro's,goin out there to do the other one,so have some pics tomorrow...

Started right up.....little adjusting on the carb,and runs good...!!!

Later guys....

sickofit · 12-03-2009, 12:31 PM

Also,the front shocks are SUPER hard....any of you guys find a way around this..??

Thanks...

11-29-2009, 05:56 PM	#19
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I'm still inclined to believe that the centrifugal clutch is wet, and as such it would require motorcycle oil (I'd stay away from Rotella). Pete, I've been using wet clutch specific synthetic oil for a few years now with no problems. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

11-29-2009, 06:09 PM	#20
PCD Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Newmarket On Canada Posts: 382	That's interesting W&G, it comes from a dealership I would guess? I change oil so often that it makes no sense to use synthetic anyway, but that's not a problem, synthetic has a lot of properties I really like so I use it when I can anyway. I just have trouble getting my head around something expressly designed to reduce friction (better than plain dino oil) working well on a part (clutch) that needs friction to perform properly. __________________ Good, Fast, or Cheap....Pick Two.
	0

11-30-2009, 02:04 AM	#22
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I was using a Motul semi-synthetic oil that was $40 for a 4l jug, but I haven't found it at that price lately; more like $50. Pete, synthetic is designed to resist thermal breakdown and is supposed to adhere to bearing surfaces better than conventional oil, but synthetic motorcycle oil is definitely designed for wet clutches. I wouldn't say that it's designed to reduce friction in that application. Car oils however (conventional or otherwise), have friction modifiers that will apparently make wet clutches slip eventually. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

11-28-2009, 01:57 PM	#16
waynev Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: London, Ontario Posts: 1,097	Not too sure about that W&G, but if you have a look at the picture of one in the link below i can see oil preventing the shoes from getting a good bite into the steel outer ring, it looks like any other dry centrifugal clutch i have seen. http://www.giobikes.com/Engine-Parts...ch-50cc-110cc/
	0

11-28-2009, 04:04 PM	#17
Reveeen Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: orbital platform Posts: 741	They hold less than a liter. (noticed I used a Canadian term) A liter is near enough 1 American quart, if you guys go metric it won't be as painful for you as it was for us. 1 US quart = .9463 liters 1 US quart = 5/6 of an Imperial quart Our gallons used to be 1/6 bigger than yours (16%).
	0

11-29-2009, 06:31 PM	#21
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	I run synthetic in my Shadow, but it is that Castrol stuff formulated for motorcycles. Seems to work pretty good but was big $$$! Edit: Oops, I was wrong. It's not Castrol, its Amsoil synthetic http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/MCF.aspx I was right about the price though... $$$!
	0

12-02-2009, 01:44 PM	#23
jeffjr464 Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 3	amsoil is the best stuff on the market period, i use it in my car, 10 bucks a quart but you cant beat that stuff
	0

12-02-2009, 02:40 PM	#24
sickofit Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Belleville,Ontario,Canada Posts: 19	Thanks guys....I will use motorcycle oil,just in case its a wet clutch... Goin out tonight to get em all assembled,i'll be sure to take some pics for you guys..!!! Greg
	0

12-02-2009, 05:00 PM	#26
BO20 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Niagara, Ontario Posts: 6	sorry for the semi hijack.... what plug upgrades are suggested? I have read that it is suggested but could never seem to find the part #.--- never mind found it earlier in this thread... :roll: I am going to assemble my mini this week also- I bought the amsoil syn oil and lock tight yesterday but didn't know which plug to get... thx in advance
	0

12-02-2009, 05:45 PM	#27
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	We almost need to make a 'parts number list' for these quads and get a mod to sticky it at the top of the ATV section for easier reference. I find it hard sometimes to search through all these posts looking for the one in the middle of 17 pages with the part number you need. I know one of the other members tried that with the big beast.
	0

12-03-2009, 12:23 PM	#29
sickofit Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Belleville,Ontario,Canada Posts: 19	Well,we got ONE together....LOL....took about 3 hours...not bad,seeing as we also installed the perf exhaust,the mikuni carb,and the perf CDI... We had no problem gettin the perf exhaust on,like many others,but what was a prob,was the Mikuni carb....first off,the stocker choke is different,it is spring loaded and the Mikuni is not,and there is no spots on the Mikuni to bolt on the spring plate from the stocker....so we couldn't use the choke located on the handlebars,as with no spring,the cable can't push it closed....so have to manually choke it...anyone find a way around this..?? Also,we had to remove the brass drain on the bottom of the Mikuni to get it to fit,as with it in,it would hit against the intake pipe,and not bolt on(maybe need carb spinner..??) Had to play around with needle valve as well,as the throttle cable was too short with the Mikuni,and only allow about half throttle....ended up using the stock carb cap,and all was well... We also had the usual missing few bolts as well,but found what we needed in our collection of misc bolts,nuts... All in all,it went pretty well...I took some pics,but of course I forgot my camera at my bro's,goin out there to do the other one,so have some pics tomorrow... Started right up.....little adjusting on the carb,and runs good...!!! Later guys....
	0

12-03-2009, 12:31 PM	#30
sickofit Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Belleville,Ontario,Canada Posts: 19	Also,the front shocks are SUPER hard....any of you guys find a way around this..?? Thanks...
	0