Gio 200cc Redline

[durango360]

From what I've researched, the 200cc engine redlines at 8500 RPM. I'm pretty sure the performance CDI that I have on order from GIO doesn't have a rev limiter so is an RPM gauge recommended?

[MICRider]

You could put a tach on if you wanted but I don't really think you would need it... The Beast in stock config will rev high enough to vibrate your fillings, I can't imagine revving it any higher. Amazing how good those 200's run, since I slapped the upgrade carb on mine it starts instantly and purrs like a kitten.

Cheers,
Stew

[FastDoc]

I think the safety of the rev limiter is worth keeping in the stock CDI.

[waynev]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

I think the safety of the rev limiter is worth keeping in the stock CDI.

Yes, but the ignition curve also seems to be better on the performance NO-REV CDI, i've had no issues so far with it on my Beast.

[durango360]

I'm not too concerned about myself as I think that I'll be able to feel and hear when it's getting close but I am worried that if I let someone else take it for a rip, they won't be as careful as I would be.

Seems like an accurate analog sweeper gauge is not an easy item to find for a single cylinder engine...

My next thought would be to retain both CDI's...

There are 5 wires in the CDI. The connector might have six but I think that 2 are ground. That leaves 4 wires to switch on each CDI. Two double pole double throw (DPDT) toggle switches under the seat should take care of that.

[FastDoc]

If your CDI is like mine was, and I'm pretty sure they are all the same, there are 6 pins, 4 in a group, 2 in another. Only 3 of the 4 are used, so only 5 wires.

Here's a diagram:

Look 1/2 way down the page for 'Vertical Engine'

http://www.hooperimports.com/showpages.asp?pid=1013

[durango360]

I wondered if all pins were wired but not having seen one (yet) I assumed that they were.

Still looks like its an easy fix with my earlier posted switch configuration. One ground and 4 wires to switch. It's possible that it could be done with one switch as the kill switch wires and ignition trigger pulse wire could be paralleled but why take the chance.

I think I'll give it a shot but my GIO T3 isn't scheduled for delivery until early next week.

[FastDoc]

We will all be looking forward to the pics!

[Weldangrind]

I punished TurboT's Beast after the same mods, and it went into valve float before any damage could occur. I wouldn't worry about the upgrade CDI.

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I punished TurboT's Beast after the same mods, and it went into valve float before any damage could occur. I wouldn't worry about the upgrade CDI.

TurboT's Beast = Guinea Pig Quad (See what happens to his first before I do it to mine)


...it's all good, runs fine, other than the oil looked like it had bad taco bell and beer the night before. 8O

[Weldangrind]

As I've said before, it's liberating to wrench on and punish a quad when you don't own a bolt in it.

The successful upgrades are then applied to my quad.

[mizke]

cdi is deff worth it, it does have a rev limiter, ive it hit on mine.. the cdi does raise the rev limiter but it also has a aggressive ignition map on it. i would suggest complimenting the new cdi with a new high performance coil.. the coil wont give a drastic change but you will notice it starts smoother, runs a little smoother, and deff does change how the quad feels when you are running it wide open..

a tach is honestly going to be good for setting the idle, knowing when its warmed up enough to change the choke setting before riding.

i have a tach on mine and all i can say from it is that a idle of 930rpms is a good idle to have. my tach does have a hour meter which is a deff nice thing to have esp if you have 0 hours on the quad. cuz then you know exactly how many hours the quad has been running total since you put the hour meter.

[durango360]

My dual CDI mod may not be worth the trouble if there's a limiter in the performance module. After a week of riding, I can understand what MICRider stated earlier - it really does vibrate your fillings in the upper RPM range.

mizke, what kind of hour/tach meter do you have. Is it one of those inductive type that have a wire wrapped around the plug wire?

[mizke]

my tach/hour meter i got off ebay for like 9 or 13 bucks shipped.. yes it uses a wire that is supposed to wrap around the plug wire.. but i instead of wrapping it, stripped the end of the signal wire off about a inch back. folded the exposed wire on its self a few times and attached it at the female spade terminal on the ignition coil.. on the coil you have 2 sides, one side has the spark plug cable, the other has the male spade terminal coming out of it.. that male spade terminal is for a single wire from the cdi unit.. so thats how i attached mine

reason why its really only good for setting the idle and knowing when the engine is warmed up is cuz of the delay. there is a delay between actual rpms and what the device reads.. that delay can be something like a second to a second and a half.. but its a big enough delay that i can be at idle, blip the throttle lever, and have let go of the throttle lever already and then the tach will tell me what the rpm's stopped at.. if it worked like a cars tach where there is no delay it would be better.

also go down to the reviews section, i have a review and pictures of the tach i bought