Templar X 250

[Diehard]

Any leads for a stronger rear brake pedal i folded mine back and under the foot peg yesterday 2023 templar x

[Mikd]

For the handlebar mounted choke lever I added two orings on top the plastic spacer on the bolt that it pivots on. This provided a bit of drag that allows the choke to stay where you put while the bike is warming up.

[vividpixel]

I don't have a matching brake lever, but the clutch is here:
a. co/d/bu3qk3x (PRO CAKEN 7/8‘’ 22mm Universal Motorcycle CNC Short Stunt Clutch Lever Aluminum Alloy)
Feels like a quality lever, stiff pull. There's a non-short version here that I returned, but it felt just as solid: a.co/d/0KrJ3wI

The brake lever is part of this universal set, but these are quite loose and snap off easily.
a. co/d/ihWKHGI (MRELC Universal Motorcycle 7/8" 22mm Handlebar Brake Master Cylinder Clutch Lever CNC Left & Right Set)

[Diehard]

[QUOTE=vividpixel;405740]I don't have a matching brake lever, but the clutch is here:
a. co/d/bu3qk3x (PRO CAKEN 7/8‘’ 22mm Universal Motorcycle CNC Short Stunt Clutch Lever al set ty apreciate the info

[Okierider]

So any word on replacement wheel bearings for the Templars?
Took my rear off to (finally) install my 40 tooth sprocket and both rear bearings are shot. Fronts are sounding suspect too…

Edit-so mine were seized solid on each side of the rear wheel.
Pounded one side out and to my surprise 2 bearings came out, and 2 from the other side as well.
Minus the one that was destroyed in the process, once removed from the bike all are flawless working bearings. They were just crammed in so tight the pinched each other.
All 4 are “61905RS 010 C&U 01A03” so replacing them should be easy.
Only question is why 2 per side?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Okierider

So any word on replacement wheel bearings for the Templars?

...
...
Minus the one that was destroyed in the process, once removed from the bike all are flawless working bearings. They were just crammed in so tight the pinched each other.
All 4 are “61905RS 010 C&U 01A03” so replacing them should be easy.
Only question is why 2 per side?

Bearing part 61905RS has typical nomenclature for a sealed bearing.
THANK YOU for that !!

Replacements I find all seem to be 9mm width, 25mm inner diameter, 42mm outer diameter. Is this what you measure on them?

Regarding the double bearing question... Was there a center sleeve (bushing) between them? Here is a typical layout:



The center sleeve width/fit is CRITICAL for bearing life. If the bearing is torqued with inner race pushed laterally and outer race not moving, this causes bearing failure, quick!! This is the reason I never apply the high torque I hear people talking about for the axel bolt/nut on my China made bikes. And, I've never had my axel nut loosen- Lock ring is there for friction, no need to. If all of the specs are perfect, you may be able to tighten more, but I don't think we get such great fitment!

Here is an Allballs rear wheel bearing kit for my KTM 250SX. It comes with a replacement inner bushing.



Was there a bushing/inner sleeve in the Templar rear wheel?

If not, then when you tighten the axel nut, the inner races are torqued inwards with no support, causing lateral force on the bearing-probable fail!

[Okierider]

Here is the layout as it came out of my wheel, Demonstrated for just one side here as the other two bearings for the other side are elsewhere-



Outer spacer-seal-bearing-bearing-internal spacer-bearing-bearing-seal-outer spacer.

And yes it checks out as 25x42x9. Most of the trade references should properly be -2RS (2 rubber seals) or -2RS1 for big makers like SKF. They are also seemingly the same as a 6905-2RS. I think Timken has them listed as such but I know SKF does. Markings indicate C&U Bearings-“the largest bearing producer in China and one of the top 8 bearing manufacturers worldwide...” seemed to be fairly standard deep groove ball bearings, didn’t outwardly appear cheap and even after pounding one of the races with a flathead screwdriver to get it out it still spun fairly well, though the rubber seal was shot. Not the best, but far from the worst.
Of note-very little evidence of ANY lubricant used for install. Aside from the internal grease in the bearings everything else was VERY dry.



Bearings were SMASHED into the center spacer and then into each other. Absolutely zero movement until I got one to budge, then everything started spinning.

[superjocko]

Maybe the logic is that two Chinese made bearings equals one good bearing. Just kidding, of course (kind of).

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by superjocko

Maybe the logic is that two Chinese made bearings equals one good bearing. Just kidding, of course (kind of).

Ha!
I have 4 replacements coming from grainger-can’t beat their shipping. I’ll get some proper Japanese bearings like Toyo coming on the slow boat that is Amazon soon.

I’m going to check the length of that center spacer and see if it isn’t a smidge too long-theoretically as the bearings sit on a ledge milled for them it shouldn’t matter how much torque you put on the axel nut-if the center spacer is the correct length it won’t impinge the bearings. I have a hunch it’s a few thousandths too long.

[Thumper]

I think you are right. Tolerance must be pretty small on the fitment with such high forces on the axel pinching those inner races. I wonder if there's any precedence for dual double bearings? It is the first time I've seen it.

[superjocko]

Originally Posted by Okierider

Ha!
I have 4 replacements coming from grainger-can’t beat their shipping. I’ll get some proper Japanese bearings like Toyo coming on the slow boat that is Amazon soon.

I’m going to check the length of that center spacer and see if it isn’t a smidge too long-theoretically as the bearings sit on a ledge milled for them it shouldn’t matter how much torque you put on the axel nut-if the center spacer is the correct length it won’t impinge the bearings. I have a hunch it’s a few thousandths too long.

I believe a too long spacer would only prevent OD of the bearing from fully seating in the hub. Not good as the hub could fret laterally on the bearings. A too short spacer would cause deformation of the hub and bearing impingement when the axle nut is tightened. Right?

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by superjocko

I believe a too long spacer would only prevent OD of the bearing from fully seating in the hub. Not good as the hub could fret laterally on the bearings. A too short spacer would cause deformation of the hub and bearing impingement when the axle nut is tightened. Right?

Off the top of my head, I don’t think so.
The bearings aren’t held in place by the spacer-they sit in on a seat machines into the hub. The center spacer is the same 25mm diameter as the inner race, when it’s not pressed in between the two innermost bearings it freely moves around inside the hub. So on my bike when everything was tight the outer race was set firmly into the hub on its seat (definitely not moving) and the inner races were smashed between the inner and outer spacers causing impingement. If the center spacer is even a bit too long it would cause this to happen even at nominally low torque on the axel nut.
If the center spacer was too short it could allow for lateral movement of the inner race when the outer spacer pushed on them from the outside. Definitely not good.

At least I think so, I’ll have to take a closer look when I get home from work today.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by superjocko

I believe a too long spacer would only prevent OD of the bearing from fully seating in the hub. Not good as the hub could fret laterally on the bearings. A too short spacer would cause deformation of the hub and bearing impingement when the axle nut is tightened. Right?

That makes sense if the outer race can move...

If the outer race wasn't tight, it could move to whatever position the inner sleeve puts it. But the bearing won't move if the outer race is tight, won't move. And there are two of them on each side in this case

I would like to switch to a crown bolt on the axel nut. The front axel is not held by the axel/axel bolt in the front forks. It is clamped in place, so you can put reasonable tension on that bolt. Other than making sure the nut doesn't loosen, I don't see any need for tightening that rear axel nut excessively.

The rear wheel should spin freely. That is probably the real test.

[Okierider]

I’ve thought of reinstalling this all but replacing the ny-loc axel nut with a castle nut and drilling the axel for a cotter pin-then you wouldn’t be reliant an pound-feet if friction to keep the axel in place, instead it would be a mechanical lock.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Okierider

I’ve thought of reinstalling this all but replacing the ny-loc axel nut with a castle nut and drilling the axel for a cotter pin-then you wouldn’t be reliant an pound-feet if friction to keep the axel in place, instead it would be a mechanical lock.

I never apply more than maybe 50 (NOT 200-typo) foot lbs and it just never budges. The maximum force the rear axel faces is pull, and the adjustment stand-offs prevent the axel from sliding forward.

Side note... I would bet that one good bearing on each side with correct outer spacers and inner sleeve/spacer would be 100% stable. I see no good reason for doubling the bearings unless they are trying to spread the load on the hub. Isn't the hub strong enough for taking that load on one bearing circumference on each side?