Things that NEED replaced on grom clones

[Big Bird]

One of my factory 12.9 engine mount bolts broke last time I rode mine. I had already replaced the top bolt with a 120mm 12.9 from home depot but left the factory lower bolt in once I realized they were marked 12.9 like the ones I bought( also because it's more of an pain to change the lower bolt). I guess I will see if the home depot ones last longer. If they break again I'm gonna go with a ARP engine bolt or drill out the mounts for m10 bolts.

[ripcuda]

My engine mount bolts where greenish in color and had 12.9 stamped on them (2020 Hellcat)... so I too thought perhaps they were improved. The first ride after installing my knobbie tires... the lower engine mount bolt broke. Probably exacerbated from the knobbie tire vibes. I upgraded to some Grade8 bolts from the hardware store and made an under-the-engine 3rd mount. No issues since.
Cheers!

[Rangerscott]

Forgot to add when I said bearings to also replace the axle bolts, they're crap. One of mine was bent.

The oem grom ones are good and fit better with a thicker diameter.

If I bought one and was keeping it stock, here's my list.

Wheel bearings and (seals if need be)
Axle bolts
Chain (use d.i.d or RK)
Any bolts that look sketchy
Fork oil


Carb only if the one that comes with it if I cant get it to run right or want a better one.

[hounderd]

cheap chinese fuel lines and fuel filter will deteriorate and eventually clog up the carb.

[RK97]

What jetting is everyone starting out with as a baseline for the vm22?

Both arrive Saturday, and while i know i will have to mess with it, starting off close would be nice.

Also, where is everyone venting the crank case breather with the airbox removed?

[Big Bird]

Originally Posted by RK97

What jetting is everyone starting out with as a baseline for the vm22?

Both arrive Saturday, and while i know i will have to mess with it, starting off close would be nice.

Also, where is everyone venting the crank case breather with the airbox removed?

Jetting depends on mods, altitude, temp, humidity. So it's hard to throw out a starting point. I'm at sea level and started with a 100 main with stock exhaust in 90+ degree temps. Now I'm at a 110 with a aftermarket exhaust and milder temps. I wouldn't be surprised if I need to change to a 115-120 in the winter. I haven't messed with the pilot and never adjusted the idle air/fuel from the 1.5 turns out starting point. The way it runs now you would think its fuel injected it just runs that good. Needle has always liked to be on the richer side of the clip settings. At least in my situation this thing always seems to respond well to more fuel. It's always a battle against being too lean, never too rich. And the plug shows no signs of being close to fouling. Always nice and tanish brown.

I have a small filter on the end of the crankcase vent hose that is zip tied high up on the frame so I have less chance of oil making a mess. I found the smallest one I could on ebay. Some auto parts stores carry a small one too in there performance parts section that people use.

[RK97]

Has anyone cut open their stock exhaust to reveal how restrictive they really are?

I am hesitant to buy an exhaust without being sure it will fit ��

[Iflipper]

Hello guys, I’m new here and new to my BD125-10. I’m having issues with my Chinese chikuni carb with stock jets (95 main, 38 pilot) and it’s bogging on fast throttle, also I notice my fuel tank is not venting properly as when I move fuel line going to carb I see air bubbles in fuel filter causing restricted flow then faster flow when I pop gas cap. Thanks for any reply and sorry if I posted in wrong thread

[RK97]

...so I’m going to end up taping a coffee filter over it, and running it vertically up the frame. Gotcha.

[Big Bird]

Originally Posted by Iflipper

Hello guys, I’m new here and new to my BD125-10. I’m having issues with my Chinese chikuni carb with stock jets (95 main, 38 pilot) and it’s bogging on fast throttle, also I notice my fuel tank is not venting properly as when I move fuel line going to carb I see air bubbles in fuel filter causing restricted flow then faster flow when I pop gas cap. Thanks for any reply and sorry if I posted in wrong thread

The way they route the breather hose from the tank often ends up pinched by the tank plastics. It's best to remove the plastics and route the line in a way that doesn't pinch it when you re install the plastics. If you haven't already you should remove all the smog stuff and plug the egr port on the head. Or at least remove the check valve on the tank vent line.

[Iflipper]

Originally Posted by Big Bird

The way they route the breather hose from the tank often ends up pinched by the tank plastics. It's best to remove the plastics and route the line in a way that doesn't pinch it when you re install the plastics. If you haven't already you should remove all the smog stuff and plug the egr port on the head. Or at least remove the check valve on the tank vent line.

Is this the check valve? I removed egr and have the one under cylinder head blocked off and one open
Not sure how to attach photo but it’s the round plastic connecting the hose above tank

[Big Bird]

Originally Posted by Iflipper

Is this the check valve? I removed egr and have the one under cylinder head blocked off and one open
Not sure how to attach photo but it’s the round plastic connecting the hose above tank

The vent hose should just vent to atmosphere(for best performance and reliability). Remove the plastic thing.