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Old 05-16-2016, 07:32 PM   #1
Grayburn   Grayburn is offline
 
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Removing Engine RPS Hawk

Hey guys, new rider here. Got my hawk about 2 months ago, and was enjoying the heck out of it. The motor seized on me while going around 40 in 5th gear a few weeks ago.
I got the bike from killer Motorsports and they are going to send me a new engine after I send them the one off my bike. They provided a UPS label for me and instructed me to send them just the engine.
How big of a job is this, andis there anything I need to be sure to take off the engine before sending it to them? I've got all the tools I should need, I just don't want to send the something that won't come with the new one. As you can tell, I'm a total beginner, and am bummed that my good times were cut short at 200 miles.


 
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayburn View Post
Hey guys, new rider here. Got my hawk about 2 months ago, and was enjoying the heck out of it. The motor seized on me while going around 40 in 5th gear a few weeks ago.
I got the bike from killer Motorsports and they are going to send me a new engine after I send them the one off my bike. They provided a UPS label for me and instructed me to send them just the engine.
How big of a job is this, andis there anything I need to be sure to take off the engine before sending it to them? I've got all the tools I should need, I just don't want to send the something that won't come with the new one. As you can tell, I'm a total beginner, and am bummed that my good times were cut short at 200 miles.
First ...welcome aboard and you've come to the right place for help. These Hawksters on here will give you all the info you should need. I've not wrenched a Hawk but I'm guessing its pretty straight toward. Just take a bunch of b4 photos and if you've got a smart phone use the recorder on it to make yourself some notes too......Spud recently went through an engine swap. Different brands but I'm guessing the basics are the same.
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:58 PM   #3
paulesmann   paulesmann is offline
 
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Damn I'm sorry you have to deal with that bs. Any idea what might have caused that?
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:08 PM   #4
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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Don't own a HAWK but here is (my 2 cents):

One thing I have learned over the years wrenching on things... do yourself a huge favor... Grab some zip lock baggies and a sharpie (or paper and pen), put the nuts/bolts/parts into their 'own labeled bags' (exhaust header nuts gets its own labeled bag, carburetor parts get their own bag, etc.)... makes assembly a little bit easier
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:42 PM   #5
pistolclass   pistolclass is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azhule View Post
Don't own a HAWK but here is (my 2 cents):

One thing I have learned over the years wrenching on things... do yourself a huge favor... Grab some zip lock baggies and a sharpie (or paper and pen), put the nuts/bolts/parts into their 'own labeled bags' (exhaust header nuts gets its own labeled bag, carburetor parts get their own bag, etc.)... makes assembly a little bit easier
Right on Azhule. I rebuild a automatic transmission with that exact technique. because I knew the amount of parts I filed each bag in order in a comic book storage box and took lots of photos. Organization will set you free.


 
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:43 PM   #6
mjstef   mjstef is offline
 
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My guess is you send them the entire engine less carb....


 
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:50 PM   #7
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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I'm not pointing fingers, but I have to ask the stupid question, did the oil get changed out of the box? Also were you giving it wide open throttle during this milage period? I am not asking tto chastise you, rather I am just curious to know if these contributed to the cause of the failure.

Excellent question on what to send. I would definitely keep everything but the core,meaning, they want the transmission and the cylinderassembly

No carb. No sprocket no wires. No spark plug. Just the minimum. You never know what they will include in the return shipment. All they want/need to know is that that shaft is really seized

It's nice that they are honoring the warranty, surprising really with the way some of these retailers behave.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:03 AM   #8
paulesmann   paulesmann is offline
 
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Oops

I was going to ask the same thing. 200 miles with the factory oil could've killed it
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:38 AM   #9
Grayburn   Grayburn is offline
 
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Thanks for the replies guys! I changed the oil before starting the bike with rotella 15w-40, and again at 100 miles. I was at a consistent two thirds throttle when it happened, I thought I was going easy on the bike, as I wanted to break it in well. Killer Motorsports has been pretty good about the whole situation, but it has been a little tough getting clear answers from them. I am going to start the process tonight. Thanks for the bag tip, that and pictures should make the reinstall less painless!


 
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:59 AM   #10
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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I basically had to drop my engine but not remove it for valve clearance issues. You could sling a ratcheting strap over top frame bar and remove all attachment bolts, chain, wires, carb etc supported with this strap. just a thought, that's how I did mine. Sounds like the pieces weren't correct upon assembly of that motor. Good luck, you will know your baby backwards and forwards now in ways you probably didn't care
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:15 AM   #11
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Not sure about the Hawk but on my old cast iron Sporty, BY FAR the best way was to pull every bolt but the last mount on the head, lay it on its side, pull the last bolt and then lift the frame off of it.

The Hawk engine should be far lighter. ;-)
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:34 PM   #12
Ron B   Ron B is offline
 
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Did you adjust the valves when you got it? they always seem to ship them tight.
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:11 PM   #13
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
Not sure about the Hawk but on my old cast iron Sporty, BY FAR the best way was to pull every bolt but the last mount on the head, lay it on its side, pull the last bolt and then lift the frame off of it.

The Hawk engine should be far lighter. ;-)
Even better, and less chance of collapse.

Also keep the kick starter lever
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:44 PM   #14
Grayburn   Grayburn is offline
 
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Finally got the engine out of the bike, hate it when I can't prioritize enjoyment. I've posted some pictures below, what else should come off before I send back the engine? My primary concern is that I'll send them something that they won't send me. Their words were send the engine. Sorry for the rookie questions, I'm new at this.
Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1464820675296-1934178314.jpg (99.4 KB, 370 views)
File Type: jpg 14648206986512057504981.jpg (99.7 KB, 380 views)
File Type: jpg 14648207195702013393018.jpg (95.8 KB, 534 views)


 
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:49 PM   #15
Ron B   Ron B is offline
 
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I would keep the shifter and carb mount
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