Preping a new Hawk

[Dave2112]

So I'm doing all the usual mod's as I assemble my bike. So glad I am swapping out tires and tubes, as I just changed out the rear and the rim strip wasn't even on the spoke nuts on half of the rim. Tubes had no power. It looks like the tire was drug or skid as 10 of the knobs have their leading edge worn, a few fairly good!! My only screw-up so far, I ordered a non o-ring chain, gonna run it anyway, gotta read a bit better! Thanks for all the tips I've read, including the stainless 8mm exhaust studs/nuts, just came in. Now if I could only get my Cluster and Oil Cooler??

[JerryHawk250]

A non Oring chain will be fine. Just soak it in a synthetic gear oil before installing it. Whenever you do clean it just soak it again. I've put over 2500 mile on the stock chain without significant wear or stretching. So a good chain should last just as long or longer.

[Weldangrind]

Agreed; I've never used an o-ring chain. I've remained with 428H chain, usually by DID or RK, although I have a new Unibear in the box.

[Hawk 229cc]

so cheap chains work uni bear 15.00 ebay the rk h 428 128 around 17.00,i want the the rk mxz ,is stronger i found an oring chain for yamaha xt250 for 34.00 sledpartsguy seems reasonable when compared to the rk version for 75.00 +

the 428 128 link is hard to find in the stonger chains ,thinking about 130 link an take few out with a 16th
front an 45 rear

[Megadan]

If you are going to buy an O-ring chain, then spend the money on a good brand or just stick to a high quality standard chain. The most common failure on cheap o-ring chains is the o-rings themselves, and at that point you have a worthless chain.

I speak from personal experience on that one. I would spend double the price on that RK chain before buying some unknown brand.

I have nothing against standard chains, but from my own experiences with them I can say that they (o-ring chains) do tend to last longer and are much more forgiving to harsh environments or owner neglect. There is a reason most new bikes are almost all coming as standard with O or X ring chains.

My personal favorite is DID VX2 chains. I have had one outlast the sprockets it was installed with on a previous bike of mine.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Dave2112

So I'm doing all the usual mod's as I assemble my bike. So glad I am swapping out tires and tubes, as I just changed out the rear and the rim strip wasn't even on the spoke nuts on half of the rim. Tubes had no power. It looks like the tire was drug or skid as 10 of the knobs have their leading edge worn, a few fairly good!! My only screw-up so far, I ordered a non o-ring chain, gonna run it anyway, gotta read a bit better! Thanks for all the tips I've read, including the stainless 8mm exhaust studs/nuts, just came in. Now if I could only get my Cluster and Oil Cooler??

The tires being beat up is kind of strange. The rim strip doesn't surprise me though. I found the same thing on my last Hawk, and I will probably find it again on my new one.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

A non Oring chain will be fine. Just soak it in a synthetic gear oil before installing it. Whenever you do clean it just soak it again. I've put over 2500 mile on the stock chain without significant wear or stretching. So a good chain should last just as long or longer.

After I clean a chain in kerosene, I let it drip dry for a while, then soak it in well melted Gulf Canning Wax mixed with graphite. Where ever I have ridden it has worked well for me. Dirt doesn't want to stick on it, and water doesn't seem to bother it either, because the wax only liquifies on the axles that the rollers revolve on. Toilet ring artificial bees wax doesn't work as well as it has a lower melting point...ARH