Bashan BSR 250 Build/Chronicles - aka Enforcer/Hawk2/DB41H

[AresROC]

After months of soaking up info from the fine folks here as well as on youtube, I finally got my own bike! So here is my build on the Bashan BSR 250. Comments/Suggestions welcome on my build.

Bashan Factory Photo of the BSR 250 (229cc). A Honda NXR 150 BROS Clone with Honda CG Engine clone design from the 70's.


Bike ordered from Superior Power Sports. Shipped from Roketa in CA. Delivered by SAIA. SAIA had good tracking info online so I was able to keep an eye on it, and leave work to be at home before they show up.

I had residential lift-gate delivery so the guy just pushed it up with a floor jack up driveway into the garage. He declined to take the pallet back...

Box arrives with big holes on both sides.




Damages to the bike: The cracked right fairing is a big one. When will Superior send me a replacement? I already submitted a damaged item claim... but their support phone number seems to only take voicemails.

[AresROC]

Since I enjoy builds too much, instead of slapping parts together in a couple of hours this will take days. Simple things first:


Was hoping for a Yuasa battery... Filled it with acid bottle as pictured. Charged it. After an hour I was ready to vent and refill. However, one of the cells had really high acid level...interesting. When I removed its plug, pressurized acid vented out. Not good. Shoulda wear a safety glass, be warned.





Engine is a 167FMM CG 229cc with "CDI" on the side. Anyone knows the actual manufacturer of Bashan's engines? No counter balancer.



I put thru-hole washers on the top of the fender, figured it would be easier to install plus less chance of losing them. They should probably go on the bottom, undecided atm... they probably will stay on top and I will put flat washers underneath. (Edit: couldn't find 4 matching bolts for the fender, so I got 4 M6x20mm + lock washers to bolt them down)




Keys with the plastic hex key. Gotta have it at all times, since anyone can close that keyhole cover and without it you can't insert your key to start the bike! (Lucky it has remote start)
Anyone knows if the black key-fob holder goes anywhere on the bike?





Instrument cluster install. Washers and 3 nuts. The parts bag only come with 1 split lock washer, so I probably will have to add them.




The white cylinder is the ignition key cylinder. Will need to install the ignition cover on top first with the two bolts pointed. The black bolts fit here too, but they are for the brake lever.





Tighten the handle bar good before installation. Or you could be leaning on it and scratch it bad. I ended up painting it with glossy black engine enamel. It matched up good enough. I was too lazy to take the left grip off.

[culcune]

Thanks for taking the time to document your build! According to the EPA/DOT 'On highway motorcycle certification list' the engine OEM for Bashan is Bashan. However, it is not always the case that the manufacturer on record is the actual OEM. Case in point, TMEC's enduro (sold via Sunright as the Denali XT200) has a 200cc engine OEM'd by Zongshen, yet its certification states 'TMEC' as the engine manufacturer. I am fairly certain TMEC is not large enough of a company to manufacture their own engines, not to mention, before Sunright was the US distributor, my friend was the distributor (it was called quite simply 'TMEC Enduro 200' at the time), and he told me the engine is made by Zongshen. I am guessing in some way that that particular 196cc engine is a proprietary engine. Cleveland Cycle Werks' 22x cc (I can't remember its exact size) engine is OEM'd by Lifan, although on the certification list, it does state Lifan as the OEM.


I do believe that Bashan might just be large enough to be the OEM of its own engine, but we may never know...

[JerryHawk250]

Nice write up. Advice on activating a new battery. You may have done this but posting for those that don't know. After adding the acid to the battery. let it sit for an hour or two before putting it on a slow charge. Most will add the acid and put on a charger right away before the has a chance to activate and stabilize. My stock battery will be two years old in October and is still going strong.

[AresROC]

Thanks for the info & kudos guys! This forum never cease to amaze me with the amount of knowledge and helpful folks available! ^_^


I checked alibaba and Bashan is often listed as a parts compatible engine supplier, among Lifan/Zongshen/Wanxin/Loncin. Gonna have to say it's a Bashan CDI engine for now. Probably will run it stock for a little while, and then check valve clearance and change oil.

When I first filled the battery, it had enough "juice" to start the bike I believe. 12.75 volts which can be considered open circuit fully charged. Instruction said to charge it for 5 hours anyway, so I didn't wait long before putting it on the charger. It may have overcharged.

So far 3 phone calls + online claim submission + email to Superior regarding the damaged panel. Got a reply someone is working on it. Keeping fingers crossed.

Installing throttle and brake. Had a hard time deciding to keep the "usual" brake line kink, or re-route and go under the bar.

Usual brake line route


New route:


Right handle bar controls. Notice the throttle cable adjuster under the bar.


It took me several tries to figure out the brake line/control wire route. I keep looking at the tank thinking if I drop a wrench there might be a dent. Murphy's law strikes "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong". By about the 5th time I move the brake lever the wrench dropped and I got a scratch on the tank. Sharpie to the rescue and now a protective towel over the tank...

Think I will apply some Birchwood Casey bluing on the tank to prevent rust.

[goat67]

I had shipping damage on my bike I got from Superior, I needed a plastic side cover looks like the same one you need, I got it from them in a week or so.

Regarding the motor are you sure it is a non counter balanced motor?

My Brozz has CDI on the side cover but it is a counter balanced motor.

[pete]

Originally Posted by AresROC

Had a hard time deciding to keep the "usual" brake line kink, or re-route and go under the bar.

Stock/Normal


New route:


Right handle bar controls. Notice the throttle cable adjuster under the bar.

The brake line should go over top of the gauges......
losen the banjo bolt and turn it 180* on the master cylinder..
The brake line has to beable to move up/down as the suspension
compresses... as you have it there is no where for it to go other
than bend up trying to find space...
all guides above the fork sliders "silver bottom sections" the line should
slide freely though them...So it can move up/down as the forks compress
and exstend...

google some dirt bike pics ... it will become clear...


..

[AresROC]

Thank you for the info!

It appears the engine is missing the front balance shaft portion. Interesting to note factory cert is stating 15.4 HP(SAE) vs Hawk 250 14.1 HP.


I try to rotate the brake banjo bolt 180 degrees but the brake line would twist too much. Might be able to flip the banjo bolt on the caliper 180 to counter but I settled the line between the gauge and handle bar.


Apparently this is the factory location: (Pic from vendor below)



Murphy's law strikes again. as I started to use power tools I stripped one of the threads for battery tray. The upper bolt goes into a metal nut, but the lower right goes into plastic. I put superglue on that bolt for remedy... There is enough room behind the bolt to put a nut on, but I might upgrade to a lithium battery and may not need that tray soon.




Got kids to help me put the bike on my MX stand. The wood-sheet is very thin. We get earthquakes here once every 10 yrs so it's probably due. Got some jack-stands for insurance.

[AresROC]

Bike comes with Keihin PD Carb PZ30. Looks authentic don't know what the main jet is.




Air box didn't seal very well, I added silicone sealant...


Bike stand spring doesn't seem to loop around very well on top. Even if I turn it with pliers it goes back to this barely clinging on look



Bike in the crate, now its finally taking shape






Front wheel axle went from speedometer side to brake disk side. Put some anti-seize on the axle just in case. Torque to 45 ft/lbs.

Rear shock install was simple. Tilt the bike on the bike stand, line up the shock and suspension mount. I did it by myself but it would be prudent to have someone else help balancing the bike. I put marine grease on the bolt, washer/locking washer/nut on the other side. Torque to 33 ft/lbs.

[AresROC]

Week 3, still waiting on Superior to hear back from "Vendor" for replacement panel.
Remove seat and check air box/air filter


Air box and filter looks good! No mods needed here (yet).
Remote start/Alarm module is just loose under the seat. Be sure to stick them down.



Don't use the red cap on the battery as a guide for polarity. That is actually the negative side and the cap is for battery vent. I saw the fuse light up when I was connecting the cables wrong, lol. Factory fuse box came with a spare 250v 10A fuse so easy fix.

Oil has been changed after a quick ride around. I can only describe the factory oil as "machine oil". It is oil but more like water in viscosity. There are quite a few colors/textures in the oil, and only 3/4 of a quart came out. Refilled with exactly 1 qt Mobile 10w50 V-Twin oil.

Did a cold kick start and the engine started the first kick! Now I am a bit worried about compression because none of the dirt bikes I had started on a first kick, EVER!

[AresROC]

3 weeks, many emails, phone calls, and one final phone call directly to the supplier later, I finally got my replacement panel in the mail! It would seem even thru Superior was slow to respond, roketa/veloz was the one not acting in a timely manner. The panel they sent appeared to be a reworked piece and I had to paint over some imperfections...


So, the fun continues with panel fitting. (No, it's not a simple bolt on, at all!)




Tabs to mount the headlight on. No they are not horizontal at all, but you can bend them easily by grabbing the nut with an adjustable wrench.




Adjust the top tabs so bottom tab of the headlight aligns into the triple clamp.





This bracket bar attaches to both front fuel tank panels and gave me the most grief. I had to twist and turn it many times for it to align evenly on both sides and it was made more difficult because the emissions control EGR stuff was in the way. If I was a typical assembler I would probably just remove the bracket, or leave it uneven. I end up shifting about 1/2 inch to the right and 1/4 inch higher.

[AresROC]

Todo:

Throttle cable adjustment, the cable adjuster was out of range and throttle cable have way too much free play.

Valve clearance check, spark plug check.

Carb tuning

Chain is very tight. Real wheel alignment marking is position 3 on one side but position 4 on the other.
Front wheel can use a spoke wrench for better truing.


Grease suspension arm pivot?



Enjoy riding...

[Pkripper22]

Would you know the size of the front spokes? Are they 9 1/8" or 9 3/8" ?

[AresROC]

No idea...you can buy spokes from CSC I suppose: https://store.cscmotorcycles.com/TT2...show=10&page=2


$1.50 each

[AresROC]

Got the BSR dirty this weekend! Took it to a few dirt trails for some shakedown. Initially the suspension felt really rigid but it softened up. Probably should have waxed the chains first before I went out... Only casualty of the day was left side panel joint busted. The glue next to it were blue lock-tights.






Anyone have a good resource on how to grease the suspension joint? Otherwise I will just un-bolt it and see what happens.