Bashan bsr 250 valve adjustment?

[Dbodotcom]

Hey everyone! I have heard a couple different things about valve adjustment. One being I should set valves before initial start. Another being run it for like 100 miles then adjust valves. Does anyone have a proper answer? Thanks folks

[Mudflap]

Why wait? I would adjust them right away.

[JerryHawk250]

Check them and adjust them . Just about all these bikes come with valves set to tight.

[Dbodotcom]

I planned on doing it first anyway, but was unsure why I've heard run it first. Didn't know if someone had a good reason for that. Thanks

[Dbodotcom]

Ok so got valves adjusted to proper clearance in mm. Very loud tapping under cover. Did it twice and they are adjusted perfect and correct in compression stroke. Are these bikes just very loud or is there a problem? Thanks in advance!

[Mudflap]

Shouldn't be real loud. What clearance did you set?

[JerryHawk250]

Make sure you adjust them when the engine is cold. The gap will increase as the engine warms up.

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Make sure you adjust them when the engine is cold. The gap will increase as the engine warms up.

eeeer Sir how does the gap increase as the engine warms up?

Set intake to 0.07mm Exhaust ti 0.08mm
or both to say 3 thou (that's what I do on the air cooled clunkers)
That's good enough and no real specs exist

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by NzBrakelathes

eeeer Sir how does the gap increase as the engine warms up?

Set intake to 0.07mm Exhaust ti 0.08mm
or both to say 3 thou (that's what I do on the air cooled clunkers)
That's good enough and no real specs exist

I know it sound wrong but for whatever reason on my Hawk which is a push ROD engine the gap has increased once up to temperature.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by NzBrakelathes

eeeer Sir how does the gap increase as the engine warms up?

Set intake to 0.07mm Exhaust ti 0.08mm
or both to say 3 thou (that's what I do on the air cooled clunkers)
That's good enough and no real specs exist

I The crank case, cylinder, and head are of aluminum. The cam, valve lifters, push rods and rocker arms are made of steel. Steel expands less than aluminum. I recomend .003 INCHES on the intake side, and .004 INCHES on the exhaust side....ARH

[Dbodotcom]

I set .004mm intake and .005mm exhaust. Did it while cold. Engine tappi g louder than stock exhaust that's for sure. Full on oil also. It just seems quite a bit louder than I think it should. But yet I don't know I having heard one run in person. A few you tube videos I've seen the bikes sound quite loud in valve area. Hmmm

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by Dbodotcom

I set .004mm intake and .005mm exhaust...

Typo (" vs mm) ? You can't find such metric feeler gauge in most store

[Mudflap]

Human being is correct. .004mm and .005mm should actually be .004" and .005". .003" and .004" as ARH says would be better for lowering the noise level.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Human being is correct. .004mm and .005mm should actually be .004" and .005". .003" and .004" as ARH says would be better for lowering the noise level.

I said .003 INCHES for intake. Not MM's. INCHES!!!!!!!ARH

[ChrisWNY]

I adjusted the gap (first time through) on a cold engine and they were tapping way too loud (and the engine wouldn't rev above 6000 RPM's or reach speeds much beyond 50mph). Took the head off a day later and the gaps had nearly doubled from what I had set with the feeler gauge. I did the 2nd adjustment with the engine slightly warm, set them to 0.004" intake and 0.005" exhaust. Started the engine up and it ran great, much quieter but valve tapping was still audible. Top speeds were back over 60mph and engine performance was much better. Not sure if I had adjusted incorrectly the first time...found TDC on the flywheel the same way both times using the kick starter. Either way the valve gap should be checked when the oil is changed to make sure they're not out of whack.