Bull 200 Break in

[USNYTOM]

I just ordered a bull 200 and I was looking for the best break in procedure. what kind of oil do you use? how often in the process do you change it? what oil do you run after? any other things I should look for/do when I get the machine? I'll post pics when I receive it and set it up. Thanks in advance!

[Douglass]

Change the oil that came in the ATV before you start it. I use Rotella T4 15w/40 oil.

What I did was change the factory oil, did 3 idle heat cycles, changed the oil again, did a few easy drive cycles about 1.5-2 hrs worth, changed the oil again. After this I just drive the ATV a few hours, check the oil, and once it looks like the oil color starts to change (get Darker), I change it.


Douglass

[USNYTOM]

Perfect, just what i was looking for. Thanks again

[Tao125f1]

Don`t forget to change the 80/90 in the transmission also.

[USNYTOM]

Originally Posted by Tao125f1

Don`t forget to change the 80/90 in the transmission also.

Do you have any recommendations? Any other fluids that i should change? Also does anyone swap out the factory spark plug?

[2LZ]

I don't think the Bull 200 has a separate trans or drive oil like a GY6 motor.
It's just a CG motor, isn't it?

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I don't think the Bull 200 has a separate trans or drive oil like a GY6 motor.
It's just a CG motor, isn't it?

The Bull 200 has a 169cc gy6 engine.

[Douglass]

I don't think the Bull 200 has a separate trans or drive oil like a GY6 motor.
It's just a CG motor, isn't it?

As Jerry mentioned, it is a GY6 Style engine/transmission with a CVT transmission. It has an area for engine oil, and gear oil.

Do you have any recommendations? Any other fluids that i should
change? Also does anyone swap out the factory spark plug?

I use Rotella 15w40 for the engine oil, so far with 20 hours on the bike no issues. Yes, I changed to an NKG spark plug before I even started it. NGK part number is "C7HSA 4629". Also, there are two engine oil drain plugs, on on the bottom, and on on the left side. The one on the bottom has a screen, and a spring.

For Brake fluid I used Valvoline DOT 3/4 synthetic, and for the gear oil I used Valvoline synthetic 75w90. The drain plug for the transmission gears is toward the rear, and fill plug is next to the CVT belt cover. You will probalby need to remove the foot wells to get access to the fill plug, but you dont have to remove the CVT cover as long as you are able to get fluid into it.

Be prepaired to replace the exhaust gasket, the GY6 gasket works. Here is what I used. I put a little orange RTV on the header threads, just to help keep the nuts from vibrating loose.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-150...53.m1438.l2649

I would also suggest removing the air box to replace the air filter. Use the existing hardware, and replace the foam element. I also added an additional foam filter in front of the air box opening. Unsrew the scews for the air box box top, and open it up. The two plastic pieces that hold the air filter elemement will pull apart, use the existing filter element, and cut out two slightly larger air filters. Assemble one like the factory had it, then install the other one between the screen, and the air tube opening. If you need pictures let me know. The stock air filter sucks, and I sucked up a bunch of dirt into the carb. Luckily it did not appear any dirt went into the engine, but I had a bunch in the carb. Here is what I used.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNI-UNI...53.m1438.l2649

The chain can also be adjusted by loosening the three rear bolts, installing a bolt through one of the holes through the sprocket, and into the side of the axle housing. Then you rotate the axle forward or backwards to adjust.

Douglass

[USNYTOM]

Thanks!

[USNYTOM]

Pics of the filter setup would be greatly appreciated

[Douglass]

Pics of the filter setup would be greatly appreciated

I should be able to get some pictures up by the weekend.

[BPizzle]

Holy crap, me a couple other guys couldn’t figure out how to tighten the damn chain! Do you have pics on how you did it??? If so please share and THANK YOU!!

[Douglass]

There are three bolts in that clamp the rear axle housing. You will need to loosen them. One is near the bottom of the shock mount, and the other two are offest to where you would hook the trailer to. If you look on the sprocket side of the axle carrior there will be one to three threaded holes. Next find the holes in the rear sprocket they are about the size of quarters. Line the holes up with the threaded holes in the axle carrior. Next stick the correct threaded bolt through the sprocket hole, and thread it into the axle carrior. . Now you can spin the tire or roll the ATV back and forth until the proper chain tightness is achieved.

I marked the picture showing the axle carrier. You can see it is oval, and the bolts that need to be loosened to be able to rotate the carrier.

[pete]

What I am about to say will go totally against what everyone ealse will tell you..
the only part of the motor that needs to be broken in is the bore and rings..

so how do the rings mate to the bore to seal...compression..
the compression forces the ring onto the bottom of the ring land/groove
then get behind it and forces it out against the bore... The ring itself only has a few pounds of expansion force.. no where enough to give a good seal..

The higher the revs to higher the compression..

When the ring exspands it dose not exspand evenly tough its full 360*
so it is not in full even contact with the bore....
a new bore has the cross hatching marks from the hone stone on it...
think of the cross hatch as a file.. that file takes the high spots of the ring
and evens it out so the contact with the bore is more constant though the
rings 360* diameter …

remember it is the compression that forces the ring against the bore and
the higher the revs the more compression there is...
the more force there is pushing the rings against the bore the better the filing effect works...

so if you wear the cross hatching off the bore by doing heat cycles or riding around at low revs.... there is no mateing effect to get the rings to seal as good as the could..
You have less than 50miles to got the rings to seat /mate to the bore..

So don't be a fairy on the throttle... you can ride in on the rev limiter if you wish..

I seen this first hand Meany years ago... my mate Richard and me both use to road race
we both bought Yamaha RD400E the same week.... Richard hammered his from the minute he got out of sight of the Yamaha dealer.... where I run my bike in for 1000km..
His bike was a good 30 meters faster down the front straight of the local race circuit
30 meters every lap in a 10 lap race.... you do the numbers..
when I re-ringed / honed my bike I hammered it from the second I started it...
Richards bike was never faster than mine again...



PS.... the replies to this are going to be interesting..

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by pete

I seen this first hand Meany years ago... my mate Richard and me both use to road race
we both bought Yamaha RD400E the same week..

PS.... the replies to this are going to be interesting..

I completely agree with you....when it's a 2 stroke like your RD400's.
On 4 stroke OHC motors, I've seen 2 locked cams (grenading it) due to hammering it out of the box before bearing surfaces can mate. Just been my personal experience. I break my 4 strokes in according to manu specs. Varying throttle, etc...etc...etc....

Interesting enough? ;-)